New rear end subframe bushings - new geometry?

[jaredmac11]

I'm going through a complete refresh of the rear end. Including poly urethane rear subframe bushings. Mine are from garagistic but I'm fairly certain they are identical to the popular eurometric.

I may have over torqued them because i was unable to get the diff wishbone in.

I lightened up a bit, which dropped the subframe and got the diff wishbone in.. but I wanted to ask the bright minds here just how tight should this rear end be and how compressed should the poly bushings get? I'm afraid I'll get it all in a bind of sorts.

I want to be lazy and not have to get out my angle calculator but I feel like it's an inevitable path forward?

Maybe just keep the subframe bushing nut to torque spec and call it good.

By the way if you're looking for a good cordless impact wrench, I'd recommend Ingorsol Rand. It's a beast.

[captain awesome]

Which part are you saying you may have over torqued? It sounds like you were installing the outer mounts first, and then the subframe to that? I installed the whole assemble at one time. Below is the order I did everything.

I left the two inner bolts just slightly snug where the new mounts bolt on to the subframe, and then aligned the long through bolts enough to snug them down. With my ATV jack at the rear of the diff and a scissor jack at the nose I was able to get them aligned without much fuss since you need to get the diff mount aligned at the same time. I then attached the outer side plates loosely with each of the two bolts. I then tightened the two inner bolts of the subframe mounts, through bolts next, and last the outer plate bolts.

[jaredmac11]

Lol I just did this so I can't believe I have to remind myself but basically I installed the rear subframe with trailing arms first. I was working on the diff and CV so I didn't load it all up. Plus I was worried the weight of the diff would make the install more difficult.

I installed the rear subframe at the outside and torqued it down, which was a mistake. I had to back off the nut at the knurled bolt for the subframe bushing to allow room to install the diff to the subframe and the wishbone to the body.

That being said, I can still torque this down and essentially compress the poly and raise the subframe closer to the body. Or I can lower the rear end by backing off that nut. The diff to the rear end should be solid.

Perhaps that knurled nut at the subframe bushing is intended to adjust/compress the bushing? I was sorta throwing out torque specs since a) I was using my beast of an impact and b) I'm using non factory bushings.

The rear end travels up and down depending on how much I crank down on that nut and compress the subframe bushing and I'm afraid I can put it in a bind but I also don't want the subframe to drop out on me

[captain awesome]

There should be a metal sleeve that keeps the bushing from compressing, so I'm not sure how that's possible. It should only tighten so far before applying excessive torque.

[okieflats]

https://store.garagistic.com/e21-rear-subframe-bushings

[OLD MAN]

With the stock ones there is a driver side and a passenger side AND there is a top and a bottom to them. Putting them on incorrectly will raise the subframe up into the body about 5/8" with stock pieces.

I do this to every E21 I lower - I also cut and reweld the rear diff hanger the same amount.