Chasing a slight lurch that happens just before coming to a stop. Sometimes it is accompanied by a clunk that comes from the rear of the car. Also, there is, sometimes, a hesitation when I am accelerating from a stop.
Torque converter? Rear end? U joints? Guibo flex? Transmission? I am getting stumped
Car runs great. No slips or noises when up or down shifting.
No one likes to hear bad news, so Google it for yourself.
5hp24 F drum failure.
Thanks, I think. Will research that
Last edited by scottbayarea; 03-27-2019 at 09:54 AM.
Scott
1987 535is (wish I had kept that car)
1986 635CSI
1997 540i
2000 540i
2003 540i (Dinan suspension, cold air intake, throttle body)
Denial: That can't be the problem. All of the google results focus on reverse going out as a symptom
Anger: This damn car is beating the crap out of me AGAIN!
Bargaining: I wonder if I can just trade it in and get a different car.....
Depression: Screw it, I have my truck and I can just park the Bimmer and let it rust away
Acceptance: Looking for salvage, rebuild I guess. Anyone have a spare good transmission laying around in the DFW area?
Thanks Wagons Ho. I was afraid it was something just beyond my DIY reach.
Scott
1987 535is (wish I had kept that car)
1986 635CSI
1997 540i
2000 540i
2003 540i (Dinan suspension, cold air intake, throttle body)
Early warning of f drum failure is exactly as described.
The f drum seal is a large rubber flap style seal. When it leaks in small amounts, the pump can refill, to make reverse functional.
Please read more, or I can find a web link that covers it better.
I found the exact symptoms as you described. I'm coming to grips with the scope of this repair and trading my love for this car versus the cost. I'm firmly in the bargaining/depression stage of grief right now.
Scott
1987 535is (wish I had kept that car)
1986 635CSI
1997 540i
2000 540i
2003 540i (Dinan suspension, cold air intake, throttle body)
Every time I read these threads I get anxiety about my own car with the 5HP24 and timing guides going out on me.
If you do get a used transmission, you may want to think about adding this into the mix.
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...dcountview=Yes
Mike Drives:
BMW's
E24 - 635CSiA - (1) 1985 (US)
E24 - 635CSi - (1) 1985 (EC)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Black)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Calypso Red)
E32 - 740iA - (1) 1994
E32 - 750iA - (1) 1990 (Not an "L") (EC German National)
E32 - 735iL - (2) 1990
E32 - 750iL - (1) 1990
E38 - 740iLA - (2) (1) 1997 & (1) 1998
E38 - 750iLA - (1) 1998
E38 - 740iA - (1) 2000 "Short Sport"
E39 - 528iA - (2) - 2000 & (1) 1997
Also:
2015 Ram 3500 Dually, Cumins 6.7, Std.Cab. Long box 4x4 (To haul all this junk when necessary)
2014 Dodge Dart Rallye (Daily Driver)
2007 Mercedes Benz CL600 (Brabus SV12S)
Mercedes Benz SL's - (1) (2002) & (1) 1999 500 - (1) 1999 600
1967 Buick Riviera (2)
What did you end up doing? I noticed mine is starting to do this, just the lurch when coming to the stop. It's random sometimes it does it, sometimes not. But I can see the RPM dip below 500 then it'll kick back up. No clunking sound or hesitation from accelerating from a stop though. How long do i have to live? Drive it until it needs a rebuilt?
Time line and stages of realization
Pick the best one for yourself based on how you "feel". LOL
Last edited by StephenVA; 05-15-2019 at 01:48 PM.
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
I'm at bargaining and depression. Even thought about a 6spd swap.
When I was a young one, all we had was a shop manual for guidance.
Now with YouTube showing you step by step thru a transmission, it isn't nearly as scary.
Been through 5hp24 's that broke right after a shop repair and now I have to fix the dreaded 5hp19 front pump failure. ("NOW" with metal shards!!) Like they're special on the way they fail.
Get a core for a $100 and have an adventure.
My own experience is to replace transmission fluid and filter ( automatic transmission ). Transmission seems to want about 3 oil and filter changes before it smooths out the shifting. I ended up with doing the maintenance spaced about 3,500 miles each time before the downshift clunk and lurch stopped.
I've already started the ramen diet for preparation.
This makes sense. I had a bad lurching issue that was resolved with some Dr.Tranny shudder fix and a flush. I still get the kickdown at times, and very slight lurch on inclines.
I know the tranny will have to be rebuilt/replaced sooner or later but I'd rather push that down the line for now. Another flush and filter change shouldnt hurt, hopefully.
I've found an intermediate fix, leave the AC on, rpm will never drop below 500.
Figured I would follow up on this post. When I posted my last update I noticed in the Similar Threads issue someone who posted about a similar issue when his AC was off and there was an update to the ECU that may be needed. So I turned the AC on and all symptoms went away. I tried over several weeks AC on, AC off and my symptoms tracked the AC directly. So it was May and then the hot season here in Texas so I have had the AC on all the time and everything is fine. One day I would like to learn more about this.
Scott
1987 535is (wish I had kept that car)
1986 635CSI
1997 540i
2000 540i
2003 540i (Dinan suspension, cold air intake, throttle body)
My '03 was doing that at approx. 118k and shortly after went into TransFailsafe. I thought it was toast so dropped the pan to see what was going on. Typical fine metal powder on the magnets but no chunks of metal so I changed the fluid (2nd time) and filter...shifting is smooth again (WHEW!).
First time that happened on the '00 (again TransFailsafe), a fluid/filter change also fixed the issue (approx. 120k). The second time it happened at approx. 245k, I pulled the pan to discover giant chunks of metal on the magnets and on one of the shift solenoids (fmu...classic drum failure). Changed the fluid and filter because I was hopeful. No luck and as you can see from my sig...now a parts car.
It may be ok for now but I would suggest you drop the pan to inspect for metal before it returns with different results...GL.
'00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now
this is a known issue for a loooong time and I also have the same problem.
symptoms going away when ac is on because engine rpm increases when it's on.
it's most likely a valve body problem (old solenoids or the valve body itself) because my tranny has been rebuilt (except solenoids) and the problem persists. I will be replacing solenoids soon to see if it improves anything.
Last edited by TiesTorN; 11-18-2019 at 05:33 AM.
I have the 2 to 1 bump as well and unfortunatly have been sitting on the repair for lack of time. My research indicated the pressure regulators in the valve body as well and it appears that if you can replace the valve body before it goes to far, the drums will be fine. Rev max appaers to have a rebuilt unit for ~$600. There are a few detailed videos and a few posts about the R&R. This is my plan. I will certainly post my results when I do. Probably after the holidays.
Use a scanner or PC to bump up the in-gear RPM by 100 or so revs. Achieves same as A/C being on. Also check your MAF sensor. But valve bodies are in your future. Mine too!
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