Results 1 to 23 of 23

Thread: Towing a 98 m3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    fairport, ny
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    1998 bmw m3 e36

    Towing a 98 m3

    I am moving cross country in a few months and wondering the best way to tow my 1998 m3 automatic, flatbed or is dolly permissible??

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Kirkland, WA
    Posts
    7,285
    My Cars
    2006 Toyota Tundra
    Flatbed

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    4,754
    My Cars
    are slow.
    I've done long distance towing with an E36 both ways.

    It really comes down to what you're going to be towing it with. Understand that a flatbed trailer is HEAVY. It's common to have a flatbed car trailer that weighs 2000-2200lbs empty.

    Really the flatbed is a better option if you can.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    -Dr. Seuss
    DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    2,195
    My Cars
    S54 E36 M3, E32 740il
    Obviously a flatbed will be less wear and tear. If you can afford it, that's the best way to go.

    If everything is in good shape, fluids are topped up (diff and tranny, obviously), and your brakes and wheel bearings are in good shape, dollying it shouldn't cause any undue wear and tear that driving it on the same trip wouldn't cause.

    In either case, do not load it up as an extra storage space. If anything, you could use it to carry a few things that are fragile and need their own space.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    6,479
    My Cars
    1995 M3 - 2007 X5
    Quote Originally Posted by erkj79 View Post
    I am moving cross country in a few months and wondering the best way to tow my 1998 m3 automatic, flatbed or is dolly permissible??
    Flatbed is preferable.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    4,754
    My Cars
    are slow.
    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    Obviously a flatbed will be less wear and tear. If you can afford it, that's the best way to go.

    If everything is in good shape, fluids are topped up (diff and tranny, obviously), and your brakes and wheel bearings are in good shape, dollying it shouldn't cause any undue wear and tear that driving it on the same trip wouldn't cause.

    In either case, do not load it up as an extra storage space. If anything, you could use it to carry a few things that are fragile and need their own space.

    The problem I had with a dolly was getting it on and off (I'm about 1" lower than stock). Also any big bumps while towing the car on the dolly might touch the rear bumper or exhaust.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    -Dr. Seuss
    DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Owings, Md
    Posts
    1,105
    My Cars
    1998 328i
    Flatbed for all of the reasons mentioned plus a dolly is miserable to maneuver in small spaces, you really can't back up a dolly with a car on it with any practical amount of control. Sure it can be done for short distances or in the middle of a field but negotiating crowded gas stations, rest stops, hotel and restaurant parking lots each day with the stress of not being able to effectively maneuver is just one more stress you don't need on your plate.

    If you are limited by the capacity of your tow rig and need to go with a dolly, I would go ahead and pull the drive shaft out of the car for such a long trip. If you are driving the car and something in drive train is failing, you will hear and feel it but on the dolly you would have no idea that something is amiss until a lot of damage is done.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    2,195
    My Cars
    S54 E36 M3, E32 740il
    Quote Originally Posted by gdavid View Post
    Flatbed for all of the reasons mentioned plus a dolly is miserable to maneuver in small spaces, you really can't back up a dolly with a car on it with any practical amount of control. Sure it can be done for short distances or in the middle of a field but negotiating crowded gas stations, rest stops, hotel and restaurant parking lots each day with the stress of not being able to effectively maneuver is just one more stress you don't need on your plate.

    If you are limited by the capacity of your tow rig and need to go with a dolly, I would go ahead and pull the drive shaft out of the car for such a long trip. If you are driving the car and something in drive train is failing, you will hear and feel it but on the dolly you would have no idea that something is amiss until a lot of damage is done.
    I was thinking something similar, but I was thinking it'd be easier to pull the axles, which would also cut the diff out of the equation.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    9,873
    My Cars
    E36
    Flat bed is great....as long as you can drive up the ramps.

    I have a featherlite trailer, but the ramps don't like my front lip...so to get it on I either need a couple 2x12's or I take the bumper off.
    If you're renting one, expect similar (depending on your height/etc)
    Last edited by Moron95M3; 03-28-2019 at 10:10 AM.
    BMW CCA Illini Chapter Vice President
    1995 M3
    - My Favorite DIY's and FAQ's



  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Owings, Md
    Posts
    1,105
    My Cars
    1998 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    I was thinking something similar, but I was thinking it'd be easier to pull the axles, which would also cut the diff out of the equation.
    The level of effort to pull the axles vs driveshaft would depend on the car and whether either have been serviced recently. The first time I pulled my driveshaft, it was miserable to get the exhaust off due to the header to mid pipe studs but getting the axles pushed through the rear hubs were just as difficult. Either job would be a relative breeze now, I think the driveshaft would be a bit quicker. The wheel bearings bearing to spindle to hub is pressed so tightly together that you would probably be just fine without it but the axle does secure the hub in place and I wouldn't pull the car across country without an axle stub in place.

    I can imagine a scenario where the tow vehicle breaks down and how frustrating it would be to have a perfectly operable car at hand minus a piece of the drivetrain.

  11. #11
    RRSperry's Avatar
    RRSperry is offline Senior Moment Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Eldersburg, Md
    Posts
    12,369
    My Cars
    95 ///M3sc, '21 C8 HTC
    I’d seriously consider just shipping car with a car hauler...
    No matter where you go, there you are...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    2,195
    My Cars
    S54 E36 M3, E32 740il
    Quote Originally Posted by RRSperry View Post
    I’d seriously consider just shipping car with a car hauler...
    Man, there's a reason I do all my own work. I don't valet my car. I would never ship it, but it might be a good solution if you trust other people with your car.

    Quote Originally Posted by gdavid View Post
    The level of effort to pull the axles vs driveshaft would depend on the car and whether either have been serviced recently. The first time I pulled my driveshaft, it was miserable to get the exhaust off due to the header to mid pipe studs but getting the axles pushed through the rear hubs were just as difficult. Either job would be a relative breeze now, I think the driveshaft would be a bit quicker. The wheel bearings bearing to spindle to hub is pressed so tightly together that you would probably be just fine without it but the axle does secure the hub in place and I wouldn't pull the car across country without an axle stub in place.

    I can imagine a scenario where the tow vehicle breaks down and how frustrating it would be to have a perfectly operable car at hand minus a piece of the drivetrain.
    These are all great points. And honestly, the backing issue is the real problem. It's wouldn't be THAT much wear to really justify disconnecting things unless you're really anal - at which point the flatbed long ago was the right choice.

    ...

    Honestly, the flatbed is the right choice.

  13. #13
    RRSperry's Avatar
    RRSperry is offline Senior Moment Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Eldersburg, Md
    Posts
    12,369
    My Cars
    95 ///M3sc, '21 C8 HTC
    Yes, I understand working on your car. But... Unless you have a really good tow rig (say a full size truck with a big, tow rated engine, trailer brake controller), life will be miserable.

    And there are a lot of enclosed car haulers that carry a LOT of really expensive cars... Yes, it cost money, but sometimes it's worth it... (Horseless
    Carriage, Reliable, InterCity..)

    If you are moving for a job, it's deductible too.
    No matter where you go, there you are...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    4,754
    My Cars
    are slow.
    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    I was thinking something similar, but I was thinking it'd be easier to pull the axles, which would also cut the diff out of the equation.
    WHOA!! Do NOT do this.

    The axle and nut is what keeps the rear hubs on the trailing arm. If you remove the axle, the tire WILL come off and the bearing WILL seperate on the highway.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    -Dr. Seuss
    DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,731
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    My E32 owners manual says: cars with automatic transmission: select lever at N, max. towing speed 50 kmh/31 miles/h, max towing distance 50 km/31 miles. To tow the car for greater distances, add 1 liter of ATF to the trans or remove the propeller shaft
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    8,885
    My Cars
    Turbo 97 E36 M3, 99 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by RRSperry View Post
    If you are moving for a job, it's deductible too.
    I would also ask the employer if they provide a relocation package as part of the negotiation....My employer has shipped 1 x car for me
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    2,195
    My Cars
    S54 E36 M3, E32 740il
    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    WHOA!! Do NOT do this.

    The axle and nut is what keeps the rear hubs on the trailing arm. If you remove the axle, the tire WILL come off and the bearing WILL seperate on the highway.
    Wait, what?

    Hehe, yeah, someone else also pointed this out. I obviously didn't really think that idea through as well as I should have. I don't even know how you'd get it up on a dolly without power. If you can afford a dolly that nice, you can afford a crappy flatbed.

    Shogun's comment from the e32 manual makes me think that using a dolly is somewhat less than OK.

    I've towed with a moving truck before, and while it's anything but fast, it works.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,731
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    ask here: Discount transportation rates for Bimmerforums.com members https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ms-com-members
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    mid-atlantic
    Posts
    357
    My Cars
    70's p-cars
    Not to offtrack but if you're having trouble hitting the nose when you're pulling onto the trailer, use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer (while connected to the tow vehicle of course) which lowers the rear of the trailer and therefore the ramps.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    4,754
    My Cars
    are slow.
    Quote Originally Posted by emoore924 View Post
    Not to offtrack but if you're having trouble hitting the nose when you're pulling onto the trailer, use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer (while connected to the tow vehicle of course) which lowers the rear of the trailer and therefore the ramps.

    I had to really crank the tongue jack for this, and still had to use some wood on the ramps to help clear the front bumper. I'm not even that low, H&R sport spring ride height. This is using the U-Haul full car trailer. In case people in the future are using this trailer with these or any car; the wheel fender on the trailer hinges down. Do this BEFORE loading your car so you can get in and out of the car without forgetting and denting your drivers side door.
    Last edited by Hova; 04-02-2019 at 01:05 AM.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    -Dr. Seuss
    DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    mid-atlantic
    Posts
    357
    My Cars
    70's p-cars
    Yeah. Those u-haul trailers have a pretty steep "angle of attack". Also, built like a tank and probably weigh about the same.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    2,195
    My Cars
    S54 E36 M3, E32 740il
    Quote Originally Posted by emoore924 View Post
    Yeah. Those u-haul trailers have a pretty steep "angle of attack". Also, built like a tank and probably weigh about the same.
    Yeah, no joke. They seriously weigh as much as the whole car.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    northern michigan
    Posts
    222
    My Cars
    95 M3 - 06 X5 3.0
    I pulled an E30 automatic on a dolly a couple hundred miles, backwards..
    Put the rear wheels on the dolly, lock the steering wheel straight, ratchet strap on the steering wheel to keep it straight, go..
    Probably would have to take the front bumper off the E36 though..
    E36 M3 S50 - E53 X5 M54 - 1980 Porsche 931 - 2001 Impreza RS25

Similar Threads

  1. FOR SALE: '98 M3 - $25k, 36,000 miles, NY, loaded
    By Kevlar in forum BMW Parts For Sale
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 04-25-2001, 07:36 PM
  2. '98 M3 vs Tricked out Honda Accord V6
    By Kevlar in forum Kill Stories
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-24-2001, 06:54 PM
  3. '98 M3 vs. Tricked out Honda Civic
    By Kevlar in forum Kill Stories
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-24-2001, 06:48 PM
  4. 98 M3 transmission questions
    By eric in forum 1992 - 1999 M3 (E36)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-23-2001, 06:28 PM
  5. FS: Stock Intake Manifold '98 M3 (more)
    By DMD///M3 in forum BMW Parts For Sale
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-22-2001, 09:19 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •