Clutch Problem - Can't depress - Please Help

[Brent S.]

1999 Z3 Roadster 2.8. I just did a 2.8 to 2.8 engine swap. Put old dual mass flywheel on new engine as the new engine was with automatic trans. Installed new crank bearing and clutch kit. Put everything back together and engine works great. Only problem was clutch pedal would not push down. I figured a cheap fix/elimination was to install a new slave cylinder. Clutch pedal went to floor very easy as there was air in the hydraulics (eliminate any pedal/linkage issues). After bleeding line the clutch pedal did the same thing as before. Will not push down. When I bought the slave cylinder the guy at the parts counter said it doesn't sound like slave cylinder. Sounds like you put the disc plate in backwards. My response was I don't think I'm that stupid to do that. He said it happens, so yesterday I tore it all apart again and everything looked great (can't put disc plate backwards because flywheel bolts would hit disc plate). New throw out bearing installed correctly (can't really screw that up either - really only one wat to install that). I compared old clutch parts with new. Identical. I'm at a loss. I don't want to just put back together as I'm working from the floor and it's a lot of work. Please help. Thanks.

[Tim95M3]

I suppose the pressure plate could have frozen up? I've seen this on MINI Coopers, and in turn the clutch fork breaks. Never seen it on a bimmer though.

[z3forlife]

Isn’t there a locking feature on our pressure plates that has to be addressed if removing/reusing pressure plates ?

[catimann]

That is on a new installation. There is a metal part that holds everything in place but I don't think you can put the trans in place with it there.

You can eliminate everything from the pedal to the slave if you take the slave off and hold the slave compressed with wire and some sort of holder on the tip of the rod. Then have a friend press a little on the clutch pedal. If it really tightens up the wires holding the rod then it is internal.
I think if the pressure plate is of the type that has the lock (the self adjusting type) and that is removed prior to being bolted into place, then that could screw you over like this. Not 100% sure but check it out.

[Brent S.]

Thanks for your posts,

I had removed the bracket that holds down the spring arms on the pressure plate prior to installation.

Like I said previous, the new throw out bearing and arm with spring holder is in place and moves freely. Only one way to install it from what I can see.

[catimann]

In the past I looked up if it was possible to reinstall that bracket and found some youtube videos about getting it back to what you started with. It is possible.

[Randy Forbes]

Thanks for your posts,

I had removed the bracket that holds down the spring arms on the pressure plate prior to installation.

Like I said previous, the new throw out bearing and arm with spring holder is in place and moves freely. Only one way to install it from what I can see.

You're not supposed to remove that lock until the pressure plate is bolted onto the flywheel.

IF YOU DID remove it, and after successive removals, it has to be set back to "zero" position. The tool is simple enough; it compresses the springs, and then you rotate a lever/ring back to said zero.

See here:

[rf900rkw]

The problem with resetting the p-plate is you first must find the floating wedges that shoot out. No load on the plate means nothing to stop the wedges from seeking the far corners of the shop when released.

[Muzz258]

A photo may help. It shows the wear gauge (little spring on the finger). This is a worn clutch with the plastic tab by the marker. A new clutch will have the spring compressed and the plastic tab hard up on the left hand side. If the wear gauge on your clutch disk looks like the photo, then you need to have it reset and the spider refitted.