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Thread: '97 E36 M3 Locking Issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Coralville, IA
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    18
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan, 2006 330i

    '97 E36 M3 Locking Issue

    I'm having a locking issue with my newly purchased '97 E36 M3 sedan. The car isn't equipped with a key fob for locking so all locking/unlocking is done via the key in the lock cylinder. When I use the driver door to lock or unlock the car, only the driver's door is affected. All other door locks stay in their original position. However, the lock button inside and the passenger's door cylinder will lock and unlock all the doors. The previous owner said he had the door lock striker, contact switch and striker plate replaced without resolving the issue. Based on threads that I've read, this would have been where I would have started, but now I'm at a loss. I would appreciate any insight on what the problem might be. Thanks in advance for your help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    5,775
    My Cars
    99 M3
    Could be the wire loom to the trunk.
    BMW has a repair harness.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...iABEgLBMPD_BwE


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    sunnyvale CA
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    325is
    The door locks have a micro switch to signal lock or unlock all doors it may be bad or disconnected. You would then loose double door lock too and the all windows close function. The passenger side has the same function, the inside door buttons have a door lock signal as does the trunk has it and the 97 may have the dash button too.

    The BMW design is bad as it would wear out all the locks as most cars design in a double activation to open all doors. Try the interior button to be sure the wiring to that door works. Then try the passenger side to test the control module work. Try double lock and window close or open. You still need to look at the trunk wires are not broke.

    The white connector is for the lock heater. Yellow is a micro switch

    A replacement for a broken door latch does not come with the switches and the previous owner may not have swapped them back on. Do you have matching keys?

    You do not have the wireless entry box or you just did not get remote?







  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Coralville, IA
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    18
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    1997 M3 Sedan, 2006 330i
    Thanks for the suggestion of the loom. I'll look to see if I can identify an issue there.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Coralville, IA
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    1997 M3 Sedan, 2006 330i
    gc325is, Thanks for the information and the photo. A picture (and your description) truly is worth a thousand words.

    The dashboard button as well as the passenger door lock cylinder both work all four doors including the drivers. The issue is with the driver's door cylinder as it only locks and unlocks that door and not the others. All windows operate as they should.

    I agree with you on the poor design--they should have called Toyota or Honda for some advice!

    I have matching keys and they both operate the doors as noted above.

    I'm not sure if the car has a wireless entry box as it is new to me (and I'm not yet familiar with where it's located). I bought it from the second owner who purchased it from the first after only a few months of ownership and he stated he never had wireless entry. This doesn't mean the car didn't come with it, but makes it less likely.

    It seems my best tack for troubleshooting is the micro switch and checking the wiring loom in the trunk.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    sunnyvale CA
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    1,589
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    325is
    The door remote or alarm box upgrade is behind the glove box. From a 1-10 pain rating it is a 5 to get to. The glove box needs to be removed with the trim and vent. If you do look for it, replace the cabin filter too. it adds another 10 min of work once you learn the secret. Oh what the h..., the trick is you need to crack the filter frame into 3 to bend it into place or remove if still OEM installed. Now for the door micro switch, its a 10 on a coupe, maybe 8 on a sedan. You need to remove door panels window sliders the door trim, lock trim. You may save sometime if the connector is not connected. you can repair all the non functional items like loose door cards window sag loose trim a common repair time for everything for a new lock repair it is 8 hours, less than 2 hours if your looking
    Last edited by gc325is; 03-25-2019 at 10:20 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Coralville, IA
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    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan, 2006 330i
    gc325is, Thanks for all the great information. I have a new cabin air filter in hand that I plan on installing. Armed with your information I won't be gentle on the existing filter and be a bit more firm with the new one when making the swap.

    I also have the dreaded glove box sag I plan on rectifying so between it and the cabin filter replacement I'll have everything out that will allow me to see if there is an door remote box.

    With regard to the door micro switch, I have the sedan so it sounds like it will make for a slight drop in the pain meter. I've removed door trim and other sundry parts to do lock repairs on some of my other cars so I'm hoping that familiarity will aid me here. Thanks for the reminder on taking care of things "as long as I'm in there."

    Once I get a chance to dig into the door locking issue I plan on posting my progress. Thanks again for your insights!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    sunnyvale CA
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    325is
    You have it easier cause the window does not need to be removed or loosen, no lock change, possibly no handle removal.

    Some information was lost but here was a write up long ago.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?709257-E36-Door-Handle-Replacement-DIY&highlight=door


    Beware of air bag or setting off the SRS light
    Last edited by gc325is; 03-27-2019 at 09:31 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Coralville, IA
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    1997 M3 Sedan, 2006 330i
    gc325is, More great info. DYI walkthroughs are a godsend. Not that following the manual is bad, but DYIs get right to the nitty gritty of how to get things done. As soon as I get the micro switch here I plan on digging into it. The write up will help alot. Thanks again.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    La Plata, Maryland
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    99 M3 Coupe, 15 428i GC
    Have you had any luck with the locking mechanism repair?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    La Plata, Maryland
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    99 M3 Coupe, 15 428i GC
    I had the same issue in a 99 M3 and it was the top end of the small connecting rod circled in the picture. It had fallen out of the hole it fits in. Once I put it back in, the locks worked perfectly. Only problem was that after about a month it came loose again. I went to an AutoZone and purchased some random locking bushings, found one that fit and would lock it in and have not had a problem since. Second picture shows OEM style plastic bushing (yellow) and the locking style I replaced it with(white). Hope this helps, good luck.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Last edited by lborrorjr; 04-27-2019 at 01:12 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Coralville, IA
    Posts
    18
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan, 2006 330i
    After a delay in getting to this I finally have the locking propeble repaired. I had two issues.

    The first was a bad comfort control module. I replaced it with a used one and all the locks worked as they should with the exception of the driver's door. It would not automatically lock and unlock the doors either by pressing down manually on the lock or by using the key in the door. The second was the door actuator. I replaced it with a new one and it works fine.

    Thanks again for everyone's input in helping me get this resolved.

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