I have lucked out and found a 3.64 LSD diff locally that I have purchased.
I will be having a shop swap it and I feel I should replace some "while you're in there, might as well" components. I have not felt any issues, but, what should i refresh when the diff is being swapped out?
TIA.
['07 BMW M5/6.:Indianapolis Red/Black:.
Toys
'93 BMW 850i J Spec- (DiamondSchwartz)-CSI Kit- Lowered-Wokke Chips- Custom Exhaust- 18" MK1's-KN Filters+ M Steering Wheel- Stereo Upgrade +++
94 BMW 850 CSi - OE
91 BMW 850Ci Manual
'88 BMW 635CSi ACS's++
'81 MB 500 SEC Koenig (pearl white)
00 BMW 750iL J Spec- Alpina Mods
06 MB S65 AMG
09 911 4S
11 BMW M3 DCT Competition
12 BMW 328i M Sport Convertible
+++
The bushings in the rear suspension.
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
I have the complete rear suspension out of my car right now and I am just about ready to begin assembling all the parts. I am changing to a LSD, replacing all the bushings and wheel bearings. I removed the bearings and some of the bushings here at home but I also used a press at a friend's shop and it was so much easier to do with a press. I have refinished some of the parts and I had some of them powdercoated.
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Last edited by JDP530; 03-24-2019 at 09:08 PM.
Thanks, I've decided to tell the shop to replace "as necessary" upon inspection.
['07 BMW M5/6.:Indianapolis Red/Black:.
Toys
'93 BMW 850i J Spec- (DiamondSchwartz)-CSI Kit- Lowered-Wokke Chips- Custom Exhaust- 18" MK1's-KN Filters+ M Steering Wheel- Stereo Upgrade +++
94 BMW 850 CSi - OE
91 BMW 850Ci Manual
'88 BMW 635CSi ACS's++
'81 MB 500 SEC Koenig (pearl white)
00 BMW 750iL J Spec- Alpina Mods
06 MB S65 AMG
09 911 4S
11 BMW M3 DCT Competition
12 BMW 328i M Sport Convertible
+++
The bushings/bearings or ball joints as they are referred to in parts diagrams that showed the most wear on my car were the two on rear uprights and those on the inside ends of upper and lower wishbones. Items #2 and #23 in diagram. The ball joint on inside of the upper wishbone is not identified in diagram and it is not available through the dealerships, except as a complete wishbone unit, but there are at least two sources in Germany that have made or modified ball joints to fit so you don't necessarily need to purchase the complete wishbone. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_0198
rearsusp.png
Last edited by JDP530; 03-25-2019 at 05:35 PM.
I am about to do this work, need a differential, wheel bearings and a few weak bushings, one guy on here had all the bolt replated, your photos are great also, is most of this powder coated? I think I'll do that also, any tips. one thing I am not sure aobut is exhaust, afraid it will need to come down, and wont go back together, I think this will turn into a $4,500 year.
Have 3:64 Diff that came out of 1991 850i with 35,000 miles, if you are are willing to pay shipping.
Alex
I had my diff swapped to a 3.15 at the dealer in anticipation of the six speed manual conversion. The shop foreman that performed the work didn't mention anything except to remove the catalytic converters which I eventually changed to 200 cell racing cats. During the diff swap just the seals, nuts and bolts were replaced.
Shortly thereafter, I went to my independent mechanic and asked him to look over the rear suspension since I wanted to change to M Sport springs. The mechanic said everything looks good why spend all that extra money if it isn't necessary? So, we just did the rear springs. Later, I changed the rear shocks and then did the "Hyper Method" for the front Koni adjustable shocks and M Euro sport springs. I still haven't touched the rear suspension. If you don't need to do it, save your money for something else, you will surely find another place to spend money on your e31.
I rebuilt the rear suspension in my car this past winter. Job took me about three months! I took some ideas from Steffen's rebuild and refinished every part and replaced just about every bushing, ball joint, and wheel bearing, approximately 24 pieces. Some of the bushings looked fine but after 28 years they probably were soft and I did not want to do an incomplete job and have to tear it apart again any time soon. I did have most of the parts powder-coated, including the sub-frame and uprights. I had a box of fasteners that weighed about 14 pounds that I sent off to have re-finished in yellow zinc plating and that really improved the appearance greatly, plus there is so much more added corrosion protection. Rear suspension looked brand new when it was re-installed. I did have to remove the rear mufflers to drop the suspension out of the car. I removed suspension completely as one assembly. And, it was installed completely as one assembly except for the brakes that were bolted on the same day. This was the easiest way I think to install the suspension, so basically, just eight bolts hold it onto chassis. I have also replaced the stock swaybar links after installation with some threaded adjustable links.
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Last edited by JDP530; 11-18-2019 at 07:58 PM.
Drop Exhaust as one piece, Unbolt from the front headers and then every exhaust hanger. Comes out complete. I had to replace every exhaust hanger they were all rotten.
I do the same job you did in 1 day... bring it in the morning, go sightseeing in Santa Barbara, drive it home that afternoon.
That's the problem with this job, it takes people months. I have the entire subframe & suspension already done before the car comes. Powder coated, plated bolts, all new bushings, etc. - the whole deal.
'91 Dinan 860 Stage III (new 6L engine)
'91 Dinan 850 TT stage III (brand new engine) 21st Century Tech meets 18th Century Dinan...
'91 850i 6sp (mint) (sold)
'90 Dinan 750iL TT stage III (Guido - The Beast)
'94 850 CSi The Detroit Auto Show car (restored to factory perfect) (sold)
'96 850Ci, The George Carlin car
''73 3.0 csi, '08 535i, '03 X5 4.6is
...and a few other non BMW cars
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