High Battery Drain & Car bucking when coming to a stop

[530IBMW2007]

I've got a 2007 530I (automatic) that is giving me some issues and causing a bit of strain on my relationship with it. I'm hoping that posting these issues I'm experiencing with this car here on this board, someone can help me figure it all out and restore my desire to keep this car.

Only reason I'm trying to fix it is because other than the two issues I'm having with it, it's been a really great car, both mechanically and cosmetically and I would hope to continue to enjoy it for at least a few more years.

First issue: High Battery Drain warning. After 4+ hours of the car parked and turned off, it will give me that warning/error message when I start it. During cooler weather, it only will give me this warning/error message on the console. However, in hotter weather, it gives me this message plus the time, date and tripometer sets back to zero. Good thing is, it's never not started and the battery has never been dead.

Doing my own trouble shooting (observing), I found that if I sit in the car with it off for two hours, every 20 or so minutes it starts making sounds from within the dash around where the radio and cabin air controls are located. The sound is the same one that you hear right as you turn off the cabin air/fan while the car is running. It's like a humming sound which stops after a few seconds. When the car is running and I turn off the cabin air/fan, it makes a humming sound for a few moments and then stops.

However, if this sound starts to occur 20 or so minutes after the car has been turned off, it keeps making the same humming sound for ten or so minutes before stopping again. Usually I will sit in the car with the car completely off. After a few minutes, no controls work in the car, which is probably normal. However, when this humming sound reoccurs after the car has been off for a while, the controls such as exterior power mirror, cabin air/fan will work, even though the key fob is not in the column or the start/stop button has not been pushed. Best way to describe it is the car comes back on internally. The hum will continue for another 10 - 20 minutes and then stop. When the sound stops the controls such as the exterior power mirrors cease to work.

This will happen in cycles. Car will be off and "asleep" for 20 or so minutes, and then the car will "wakeup" for no apparent reason on it's own and stay "awake" making the humming sound for 10 or so minutes before shutting back down and going back into "sleep" mode again. After 20 or so minutes the car will "wakeup" again and go through this same cycle. These cycles continue endlessly. Any idea's what this may be and how to stop it? I'm sure this is what is causing the high battery drain error/message. After so many hours of it going through this cycle, the computer detects the power drain and shuts down systems (clock, tripometer, etc.). And frankly, I'm tired of seeing the high battery drain warning and having to reset the time and losing the tripometer information every morning when I start it.

Second issue I'm experiencing with this car is when I'm coming to a stop. I'd say 80% of the time the car will buck forward when coming to a stop. Not sure if it's a bad transmission mount, internal issue with the transmission, or something other than those two things. If I come to a complete stop very slowly, the buck usually does not occur. If I put the car in neutral as I'm coming to a stop, the bucking will not occur.
Another thing I notice in regards to the bucking is when I'm coming to a stop, as the car slows, the mpg needle starts to move to the right (least gas mileage) reading. As the car approaches 0 mph, the mpg needle will spike completely to the right and this is when the buck will occur. The MPG needle always does this when coming to a stop, regardless if the buck does or does not occur. I'm not sure if the bucking and MPG needle movement to the right and spike at the end are related or not.

These two issues have made me not enjoy driving this car. The bucking during stops is so aggravating that I'm now at the place now where I always shift the car into neutral every time I come to a stop light and stop sign.

I have a mechanic that checked the motor mounts and they are fine. We've not checked the transmission mount or the transmission fluid level yet.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[Robert Carew]

I've got a 2007 530I (automatic) that is giving me some issues and causing a bit of strain on my relationship with it. I'm hoping that posting these issues I'm experiencing with this car here on this board, someone can help me figure it all out and restore my desire to keep this car.

Only reason I'm trying to fix it is because other than the two issues I'm having with it, it's been a really great car, both mechanically and cosmetically and I would hope to continue to enjoy it for at least a few more years.

First issue: High Battery Drain warning. After 4+ hours of the car parked and turned off, it will give me that warning/error message when I start it. During cooler weather, it only will give me this warning/error message on the console. However, in hotter weather, it gives me this message plus the time, date and tripometer sets back to zero. Good thing is, it's never not started and the battery has never been dead.

Doing my own trouble shooting (observing), I found that if I sit in the car with it off for two hours, every 20 or so minutes it starts making sounds from within the dash around where the radio and cabin air controls are located. The sound is the same one that you hear right as you turn off the cabin air/fan while the car is running. It's like a humming sound which stops after a few seconds. When the car is running and I turn off the cabin air/fan, it makes a humming sound for a few moments and then stops.

However, if this sound starts to occur 20 or so minutes after the car has been turned off, it keeps making the same humming sound for ten or so minutes before stopping again. Usually I will sit in the car with the car completely off. After a few minutes, no controls work in the car, which is probably normal. However, when this humming sound reoccurs after the car has been off for a while, the controls such as exterior power mirror, cabin air/fan will work, even though the key fob is not in the column or the start/stop button has not been pushed. Best way to describe it is the car comes back on internally. The hum will continue for another 10 - 20 minutes and then stop. When the sound stops the controls such as the exterior power mirrors cease to work.

This will happen in cycles. Car will be off and "asleep" for 20 or so minutes, and then the car will "wakeup" for no apparent reason on it's own and stay "awake" making the humming sound for 10 or so minutes before shutting back down and going back into "sleep" mode again. After 20 or so minutes the car will "wakeup" again and go through this same cycle. These cycles continue endlessly. Any idea's what this may be and how to stop it? I'm sure this is what is causing the high battery drain error/message. After so many hours of it going through this cycle, the computer detects the power drain and shuts down systems (clock, tripometer, etc.). And frankly, I'm tired of seeing the high battery drain warning and having to reset the time and losing the tripometer information every morning when I start it.

Second issue I'm experiencing with this car is when I'm coming to a stop. I'd say 80% of the time the car will buck forward when coming to a stop. Not sure if it's a bad transmission mount, internal issue with the transmission, or something other than those two things. If I come to a complete stop very slowly, the buck usually does not occur. If I put the car in neutral as I'm coming to a stop, the bucking will not occur.
Another thing I notice in regards to the bucking is when I'm coming to a stop, as the car slows, the mpg needle starts to move to the right (least gas mileage) reading. As the car approaches 0 mph, the mpg needle will spike completely to the right and this is when the buck will occur. The MPG needle always does this when coming to a stop, regardless if the buck does or does not occur. I'm not sure if the bucking and MPG needle movement to the right and spike at the end are related or not.

These two issues have made me not enjoy driving this car. The bucking during stops is so aggravating that I'm now at the place now where I always shift the car into neutral every time I come to a stop light and stop sign.

I have a mechanic that checked the motor mounts and they are fine. We've not checked the transmission mount or the transmission fluid level yet.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Definitely check the transmission fluid level, and have you tried to manual shift when coming to a stop? Mine did that before and I put it in relearn mode, not sure if that’s what it’s called and mine stopped doing it. The power drain can be tricky, I had one then I figured out if I left my Bluetooth obd scanner plugged in over night the battery would be dead by morning. It ain’t much but maybe it will help ya out some.

[Robert Carew]

Any updates?

[530IBMW2007]

Thanks for the suggestions. I greatly appreciate it. So how do you put it in relearn mode? In regards to the battery drain, it's never been dead, even after a number of days not being driven. But it does give me the message that a high battery drain was detected. I start the car, leave it run for a minute, turn it off, turn it back on and the error message clears. I'm thinking the computer detects the drain and then shuts down systems to conserve energy. If I were to have purchased an aftermarket battery and installed it myself without "registering" the battery, would that cause it do give me that error?

[DaHose]

The "bucking" you describe is a classic symptom of transmission valve body issues. You can get a cleaned/tested replacement unit from rebuilders online for around $1200, or if you have space/skills to do it, you can rebuild yourself for around $700 in parts. The ECU references the battery to know what is going on with the myriad of computer systems. Yes, you need to register the battery if it was changed.

Jose

[530IBMW2007]

The "bucking" you describe is a classic symptom of transmission valve body issues. You can get a cleaned/tested replacement unit from rebuilders online for around $1200, or if you have space/skills to do it, you can rebuild yourself for around $700 in parts. The ECU references the battery to know what is going on with the myriad of computer systems. Yes, you need to register the battery if it was changed.

Jose

Thanks for the information. Wow I hope that's not the problem.

This morning I did a little research on the net in regards to relearning/resetting the transmission. I'll try that after work today. But one thing I can say for now is, on my drive home from work yesterday, I put the transmission in the wannabe "manual transmission" mode and drove it home that way. Today driving to work I had it back in the automatic mode and there was no bucking at the stop signs and lights. I'm wondering if that's one way to relearn/reset the transmission. I recall about a year ago as I was driving around town on surface streets, I accidentally shifted it into the "manual" mode, where the gear shift is moved towards the driver. I simply just shifted it back to full automatic. It seems I started noticing the bucking issue starting at around that time. To describe the "bucking" a bit more. It's like when the car is like moving 1 mile per hour, right before it comes to a complete stop, if feels like the car was nudged in the rear from another car. It's not a feeling that continues for any amount of time. It's like a small nudge right as the car is coming to a stop. If I put the car in neutral as I'm coming to a stop, the buck/nudge does not occur. It also doesn't occur when the transmission is in "manual" mode and I'm downshifting when coming to the stop. Only when it's in automatic mode and coming to a complete stop.


In regards to the battery, so even if the replacement battery is brand new (aftermarket) and there isn't an actual high battery drain, if it's not been registered, will this cause the "high battery drain" error to occur? I may just bite the bullet and have the dealership install and register a new battery to see if that error goes away. If I can get the buck/nudge and the high battery drain error message to stop, this car will be as good as new, again.

[530IBMW2007]

A little update: The car no longer bucks/nudges when coming to a complete stop as much as it used to. One out of every fifteen to twenty stops I may feel a slight nudge but nothing like it was before at basically every stop. I did two things, so not sure which one solved the issue. First thing I did was drove the car from start to finish in one trip using just the manual shift mode. After it was suggested that the transmission be reset some sort of way, I did a little research and found that if the car is turned on but with engine off, push the accelerator peddle all the way down and hold it there for at least 30 seconds. This is supposed to reset the transmission/gear box or something inside the transmission. I did both those two things and now the car comes to a complete stop smoothly pretty much always now.

Next issue I'm tackling is the high battery drain issue. I'm going to bring the car to the dealership and have them install and register a new battery. I know how to put batteries in myself, but I can't register a new battery. So I'll just have them do it. So what am I looking at in regards to cost? I'm estimating a new battery, installation and registration to be no more then $500.00. Anyone know for sure?

[handyben]

Regarding your high battery drain issue: your IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) that is an integral part of the negative battery cable may be defective, causing it to waken the car every so often as you described. To confirm that this is the case, you can disable the IBS by disconnecting the small black connector that is on the blue/black wires (if I'm not mistaken) that come out from the battery negative terminal. Unfortunately to replace the IBS you have to buy the complete negative battery cable that costs a couple hundred dollars.

[530IBMW2007]

I've narrowed it down to the #18 fuse in the glove compartment. When I pull that fuse and let the car sit overnight, the next morning I plug that fuse back in and start the car. No high battery drain message. I've got a fuse diagram and that one fuse powers the navigation unit. The diagram also shows the #35 fuse for the navigation unit. But my car does not have a #35 fuse installed and, there is no electrodes in the fuse slot so I wouldn't be able to install a fuse in that specific slot.

The number #18 & #35 fuses are shown in the fuse diagram to power the N/\JAP (navigation). So I plug the #18 fuse back in and pull out the navigation/cd unit from the dash. Come back to the car hours later and the high battery drain message came back. So I removed the cd changer that's located in the glove compartment. Still get the high battery drain message. I then pull out the display unit/screen, still get the high battery drain message. In the end, I've pulled out the Navigation / cd unit, display unit/screen, cd changer located in the glove compartment, and in the trunk the phone module, the amp and another module that I'm thinking is for the SOS system. Still get the high battery drain. So I reinstalled all of these components back into the car and let it sit another 5 to 6 hours. Sure enough, I get the high battery drain message again.

So yesterday afternoon, I just unplugged the #18 fuse again and let the car sit for roughly 15 hours. Came back out to it this morning, plugged in the #18 fuse, turned the car on and no high battery drain message comes.

During the process of narrowing it down to the #18 fuse, I unplugged other fuses along with the #18 fuse. But in those situations, I'd get other error codes when turning the car on for the first time since removing the fuses. So I'm sure that even with the #18 fuse pulled, the error messages will still show on the instrument cluster when first starting the car up.

So what other components are powered by the #18 fuse? I noticed a speaker type of component right behind the monitor when I had removed it. What is that component? I'm thinking it's a speaker for either the hands free phone or stereo. I think there is a solar sensor as a part of that component. I think I'll disconnect that from the harness and see if I still get the high battery drain message. There's got to be something drawing off that #18 fuse that I just can't figure out. All of the other components that run off of the #18 fuse also run off of other fuses. All these fuses such as #34, #36, #37, #38 are present and accounted for. The only component that is powered solely by #18 fuse is the A/\JAP (Navigation).

If anyone has any suggestions on what would be powered by the #18, please let me know.

This car just has issues. Another interesting issue is, when I turn off the display monitor while the car is running, every so often the date and time will magically reappear at the bottom of the display monitor for a few seconds and then disappear again. Not sure what that's all about or if it does or does not have anything to do with the high battery drain issue.

One thing for sure, yesterday I opened up the car and I could hear the fan running behind the navigation unit. I unplugged the #18 fuse and the fan stopped. This morning (the next day) I plugged that #18 fuse back in, started the car, and sure enough, no high battery drain message.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[jclausen]

If your having a problem with the sos system you can take it out of the system with the optical loop, BMW sells the part and it's on the parts film. Until the battery is replaced you can't check mischief else. The transmission has adtaption numbers the range from 0 to 300 plus or minus is with in the acceptable ranges, but you could certainly have higher numbers like 600 which I have seen. But the transmission also uses the stored shift points/ files stored in the computer. Resetting the trans computer could help

[iregj]

Fuse F35 is only for navigation on japanese vehicles.
Fuse 18 is for the Body Gateway Module, which controls:

• Exterior mirrors
• Entrance light, front
• Power windows, front
• Micro-power module
• Servotronic
• Central locking, front

Inputs and outputs of the KGM

[530IBMW2007]

Fuse F35 is only for navigation on japanese vehicles.
Fuse 18 is for the Body Gateway Module, which controls:

• Exterior mirrors
• Entrance light, front
• Power windows, front
• Micro-power module
• Servotronic
• Central locking, front

Inputs and outputs of the KGM

This is the diagram I've been working with:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Y5u4Uu6B5dc/maxresdefault.jpg

[iregj]

As you can see from that diagram fuse 18 is connected to a alot of things, because it powers the body gateway module (KGM) directly, which controls the bistable relay that powers the navigation unit among other things.

[530IBMW2007]

As you can see from that diagram fuse 18 is connected to a alot of things, because it powers the body gateway module (KGM) directly, which controls the bistable relay that powers the navigation unit among other things.

For example, one of the items that is powered by the #18 fuse is something called the CCC/M-ASK. But that is also listed as being powered by the #34 fuse. The only fuse I unplugged was the #18. So in that situation, wouldn't the CCC/M-ASK still get power from the #34 fuse? And if that's correct, if the CCC/M-ASK was the problem, I'd still get the high battery drain because the #34 fuse remained connected. This is how I interpret this to be. Each component gets power from more then one fuse, in the event one fuse blows, the component being powered through that fuse will still get power through another fuse. Is this how the power system is setup on these BMW's are am I wrong?

So since all I did was remove just the #18 fuse and only the N/\JAP unit is the only component listed to be powered by just that one fuse (non-Japanese car), wouldn't this mean that the N/\JAP is the component that is causing the high battery drain while the car is off? I pull the #18 fuse and the high battery drain warning/error does not appear after car sits for 12 hours. I pull the navigation unit out but keep the #18 fuse plugged in and I get the high battery drain. Now if, for example, the CCC/M-ASK was the component causing the issue, I'd still get the high battery drain warning/error even after pulling the #18 fuse and having the car sit for 12 hours.

Another issue I'm having is the rear passenger doors don't activate with touch to lock/unlock like the front doors have. Is this the way the cars are supposed to be, or are all the doors supposed to operate that same way? On my 2007 they don't. Now on my 2015 528i, all doors operate with the touch lock/unlock feature (comfort access).

[iregj]

CCC is the professional navigation unit.
M-ASK is the business unit.
N/\JAP is the japanese version of the unit, which I am guessing you don't have because you never mentioned the car was imported.
Some components might be connected to multiple fuses, but not because they are designed to work with only part of them connected. Different circuits are powered by different fuses, there is no crossover backup supply.
According to the diagrams I saw fuse F18 is directly connected only to the KGM. The KGM controls the bistable relay which wakes many other components, among them the navigation unit. This is why you are not seeing a parasitic drain without F18.
Try removing only F34, the navigation should not power on, and you will know if that is what's causing the drain.

[530IBMW2007]

CCC is the professional navigation unit.
M-ASK is the business unit.
N/\JAP is the japanese version of the unit, which I am guessing you don't have because you never mentioned the car was imported.
Some components might be connected to multiple fuses, but not because they are designed to work with only part of them connected. Different circuits are powered by different fuses, there is no crossover backup supply.
According to the diagrams I saw fuse F18 is directly connected only to the KGM. The KGM controls the bistable relay which wakes many other components, among them the navigation unit. This is why you are not seeing a parasitic drain without F18.
Try removing only F34, the navigation should not power on, and you will know if that is what's causing the drain.

I'll try that first thing when I get home after work. Thank you. Also, when I did pull out the #18 fuse, right before doing so while the car was shut off, I could hear a humming sound coming from around the CD/Nav unit in the dash. As soon as I pulled that #18 fuse, the humming sound stopped and the high battery drain warning/code didn't appear 12 hours later when turning the car on for the first time.

Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll try it tonight and tell you how that goes tomorrow. However, since I removed the navigation component last week but kept all fuses still plugged in, I got that high battery drain warning/error the very next day. So it's probably not going to be the navigation unit. We'll see.

[530IBMW2007]

CCC is the professional navigation unit.
M-ASK is the business unit.
N/\JAP is the japanese version of the unit, which I am guessing you don't have because you never mentioned the car was imported.
Some components might be connected to multiple fuses, but not because they are designed to work with only part of them connected. Different circuits are powered by different fuses, there is no crossover backup supply.
According to the diagrams I saw fuse F18 is directly connected only to the KGM. The KGM controls the bistable relay which wakes many other components, among them the navigation unit. This is why you are not seeing a parasitic drain without F18.
Try removing only F34, the navigation should not power on, and you will know if that is what's causing the drain.

Removing F34 does nothing. I get the drain with just F34 removed. If I remove F18 when car is parked, turned off, and locked up, I come back to the car 8 hours later, plug the F18 back in, turn on the car and no high battery drain error/warning message. If I park the car, turn it off, leave the F18 plugged in but physically remove the nav unit completely from the dash, I get the high battery drain error/warning message.

It's got to be something with just the F18 since leaving it plugged in causes the drain, but removing it stops the drain. I'm wondering if something installed (aftermarket) by the previous owner, perhaps something has been tapped into one of the wires that F18 supplies power through.

[530IBMW2007]

Got an update on the high battery drain troubleshooting. Real wild story here. Ok, a few weeks ago I figured that pulling the #18 fuse stopped the drain. But, if the #18 fuse is left in but the Nav unit is removed, the high battery drain occurs. Since the fuse diagram I'm using only shows the Nav unit being powered solely by the #18 fuse, I assumed that the wire between the Nav unit and the fuse may have a short or something in it. I left it at that I just figured I'd inform the BMW mechanic about it to help him perhaps find the issue a bit easier.

Three weeks go by while I just live with the high battery drain issue. It's never left me stranded, but it's just an annoyance to start the car after it sitting for 6 hours or more and have that warning come on. This high battery drain warning has been going on for a little over a year now. Every single time I start the car after it being turned off and locked up for at least 6 hours, I get the light. Well, last weekend I bucket washed the car on Sunday evening. The very next morning bright and early I went out and started the car. BAM! No high battery drain message came on. It's not done that in over a year. I was completely shocked. So I thought about what I did the night before with the car. I recall that near the end of the washing, I was cleaning one of the last doors (the passenger side front door) when I tripped the comfort access (touch) mechanism. The car unlocked at that moment and I was sort of surprised that I had washed nearly the entire exterior of the car before realizing that I was doing so with the car locked. I then left the car unlocked and finished up cleaning the last door (rear passenger side door). I cleaned it and then while drying it, the comfort access (touch) was tripped and the car locked. I then was done and went inside the house for the evening. Next morning came out to start the car and the high battery drain message didn't come on.

I assumed that the only reason the drain didn't happen was possibly because I locked the car using the comfort access (touch) at the rear passenger side door. I've never locked the car up from there before. So at work that same morning, I made it a point to lock the car up from that specific door. 8 hours later when I'm going home, I started the car and got the high battery drain message. So what didn't I do this time that I had done the night before? Oh, that's right, I didn't unlock the front passenger side door with the comfort access (touch) and then lock the car up using the comfort access (touch) on the rear passenger side door. So for the past several days at work and evenings at night, I lock the car up exactly the same way. I get out of the car after turning it off, lock the car using the drivers door comfort access (touch). I then walk around the car, unlock the car with the comfort access (touch) on the front passenger side handle (not opening that door at all) and then reaching back and locking the rear passenger side door with the comfort access (touch). BINGO! No high battery drain messages when I do this before the car sits for 6 or more hours.

So, what in hell could be this issue be and how could it be fixed?

[iregj]

Front passenger door lock might be faulty. It is controlled by the KGM, which is on fuse #18.
Try disconnecting the lock.

[530IBMW2007]

Front passenger door lock might be faulty. It is controlled by the KGM, which is on fuse #18.
Try disconnecting the lock.

If I disconnect this, the only thing that will be effected is the comfort access (touch lock & unlock) on that specific door handle correct? It will still lock and unlock when activated by another handle and still be able to open the door correct?

To me it's quite puzzling as to why I have to lock the car from the drivers door, then unlock the car from the front passenger side and then lock the car back up from the rear passenger side. As mentioned, I locked the car from the drivers side then unlocked and locked the car from the rear passenger side on Monday morning at work. When I cam out after work the high battery drain warning came on. Weird that I have to involve the front passenger side door to unlock and then relock using the rear passenger side.

I'll disconnect the front passenger side and see what happens. Thanks

[iregj]

If you disconnect the electrical connector, it will only lock/unlock by inserting the key. Central locking will not work.
It is easier to unplug the big connector near the hinges, This is faster but will disable the whole door.
Reading whatever error codes are present with a bmw specific scanner would also help.

[530IBMW2007]

If you disconnect the electrical connector, it will only lock/unlock by inserting the key. Central locking will not work.
It is easier to unplug the big connector near the hinges, This is faster but will disable the whole door.
Reading whatever error codes are present with a bmw specific scanner would also help.

Thank you for your reply and information/suggestions. I greatly appreciate it.

My 2007 only has one door with a key hole, which is the driver door only. All the remaining doors do not have a key hole. To lock/unlock all other doors besides the driver door from the outside of the vehicle, it's either done so with the key fob remote and/or the comfort access (touch) method.

It's a very bizarre issue because of the method I need to prevent the high battery drain from occurring. After turning off the car, close the driver door and lock it from there with the comfort access. Then walk around the car to the front passenger door, unlock it with the "touch" method but Do Not Open the door. Then going to the rear passenger side door and locking it with the "touch" method. Locking the car using this exact sequence prevents the high battery drain from occurring. I tried a sequence just a little bit different at one time, physically opening and then closing the front passenger side door after unlocking it with the "touch" and then locking the car from the rear passenger side door with the "touch" method. Doing so caused the high battery drain to occur. So now when I park the car for any length of time, I be sure to do the specific lock/unlock/lock sequence at the specific doors. Works every time and I don't get the high battery drain.

Is it for sure the front passenger side door latch mechanism that is the cause? I'm ready to buy a new front passenger side door latch at the BMW dealership and be done with this issue. A new one is right around $216 at the BMW dealership from what I've researched.

[iregj]

Don't just throw parts at it. Disconnect the door like I described. See if that works first.

[eyenak]

Anymore update on battery drain issue? I am a newbie & joined this forum today.
My 07 530i also shows same symptoms like yours (Battery drain & Automatic transmission buck/nudge). I believe the buck/nudge started when I re-programed the transmission to make it more sporty (totally my fault). I will reset it tomorrow. Battery drain causes car alarm to go off but I don't get any screen message although time/date gets reset. I don't have comfort access, but the car passenger side rear door lock is not working at all using keyFOB or central locking button on dashboard. RR door lock module was replaced but that did not fix this problem. All other door locks work as designed. I will try to remove F18 to see if that help with drain.

[530IBMW2007]

No updates on the battery drain issue, except to say that it doesn't do it anymore, just as long as I lock the car up in the same lock/unlock/lock door sequence. Since that's been working, I've not messed around with it at all. I may try and unplug the door locking mechanism just to be sure that's the issue. But for now I'm just locking it in that specific sequence that keeps it from having the parasitic battery drain.

As for the buck/nudge at the stops, I've not done anything about that either because I've found how to keep it from doing that. I only drive the car in the automatic setting, however, when I'm coming up to a stop, I bring the shifter towards me which places it in the "manual" mode. I then simply come to a stop nice and smooth. Once the car has come to a complete stop, I move the shifter away from me towards the passenger side which puts it back in fully automatic mode and I go about my merry way.

Since that's all it takes in regards to removing the buck/nudge, I'm thinking there's probably a solenoid in the transmission or something that needs to be replaced. The car shifts nice and smooth through all gears when on fully automatic mode from a stop all the way up to highway speeds. It also downshifts in the fully automatic mode nicely as well. But the bucking/nudging occurs when the car is in the fully automatic mode when it is like 1 mph coming to a complete stop. I can live with just shifting it into the manual mode when coming to a stop. I'm sure the turkey who owned this car before me raced the life out of it. When he was giving me the test drive he was shifting it like we were in the indy 500. He may even did what you say you did by re-programming it, I don't really know.

And this brings me to, how do you re-program the transmission? Is that something that people do with a computer/program?