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Thread: M Roadster Ball Joint Replacement (validation)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Massachussetts
    Posts
    150
    My Cars
    2000 M Roadster,e46 325i

    M Roadster Ball Joint Replacement (validation)

    So, my new to me M roadster appeared to be on original control arms and bushings. As a little winter project I decided to address all the cracking/grease leaking parts. In researching the job I came across a-lot of info regarding the control arms not being able to replace the ball joints in the m roadster's control arms. I also found one that I hope others undertaking the job may have come across this post so I decided to give it a shot.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ement-with-E30

    His DIY is all there,so that's not what this is. My post here is (hopefully) a little validation that it can be done, without too much hassle. If you are DIY, and have the tools you can save a few bucks while you are at it.

    A couple things I learned along the way, My 12 ton HF press was about maxed out on this job, but it will get it done, the DIY recommends a 20. The second side was easier when I put some tension on the ball joint and sharply tapped the control arm (try to be careful on this part, the shop press with this much pressure really freaked me out, so stay out of the line of fire of anything that could go flying) I rented the 23pc ball joint/u joint press from autozone and used the cups and receivers in the kit with my shop press.

    My control arms were original BMW, centered control arm bushings. One thing I noted was the original outer ball joint did not have the lower retainer that you see in some pictures. In all ways the Lemforder parts looked identical to what I removed so I felt confident in moving forward.
    For your reference, my example is a 8/1999 production date.

    My refresh included control arm ball joints, full tie rods, end links, and control arm bushing set, All parts Lemforder
    Ball Joints PN: 31121126253, 31121126254
    End links PN:31352227203
    Tie Rods PN:32111139316, 32111139315
    Bellows Clamps: 32111137102, 32131094100
    Tie Rod Lock plate: 32111140464
    Control Arm Bushing Kit: 31129069035


    IMG_1246.jpg

    IMG_1248.jpg

    IMG_1256.jpg

    Let me know what you think, I'm open to comments, questions, critiques. Just a guy here having fun with his car and enjoy doing what I can myself.

    Dave

    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    5,813
    My Cars
    99 M3

    M Roadster Ball Joint Replacement (validation)

    Quote Originally Posted by yinzerinmass View Post
    One thing I noted was the original outer ball joint did not have the lower retainer that you see in some pictures.
    The ‘strap’ you see on 31 12 1 140 398 is part of the rubber isolation mechanism in the outer ball joint of the non-“M” FLCA.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bluptgm3; 03-19-2019 at 03:29 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    21
    My Cars
    2000 Z3M
    Did mine over the winter. Not to hard a job and everything went back together fine (which I assumed was a good sign!). I had it aligned and have put a couple hundred miles on since. So far it all seems good.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    kansas city
    Posts
    143
    My Cars
    98 Z3, 01 330i, 07 328iT
    Thanks for the validation of replacing only the balljoints. I'v got a 20 ton press. So, when I need to replace them, I know what direction I'll go.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Massachussetts
    Posts
    150
    My Cars
    2000 M Roadster,e46 325i
    Wow, I just took the car out for a ride, and its a night and day difference. It took out almost all of the rattles, this car definitely benefited from the refresh. In for a real alignment next.

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