this didn't happen until i changed my rotors to zimmerman x-drilled... goodness,,, what's wrong with these things?? i baby my brakes so i don't believe i have warped them... what else causes steering wheel wobble when you step on brakes besides warped rotors???? well anyway, this problem only happened right after i put on the zimmermans. so in conclusion, i will <font color=red size=4><b>NEVER</B></font> buy zimmermans ever again.
Last edited by pikachu; 03-01-2002 at 01:49 PM.
What pads are you using? Many pads can leave deposits on the surface of the rotor which effectively leave it untrue above the rotor surface. Depending on how your pads respond to the drilled surface, this problem may have been exacerbated.Originally posted by pikachu
this didn't happen until i changed my rotors to zimmerman x-drilled
what else causes steering wheel wobble when you step on brakes besides warped rotors????
i will <font color=red size=4><b>NEVER</B></font> buy zimmermans ever again.
More importantly, did you bed the pads in properly to the new rotors? Regardless of pad type/manufacturer, if proper bedding in does not take place, uneven material transfer from the pad to the rotor is likely.
The answers to these questions will determine the solution. I am very disheartened to see that you have an undiagnosed operating problem with your brakes, and your response was to say that you'd never buy from a particular company again. Zimmerman makes high quality products. It may be that for your usage and braking style, cross-drilled rotors are dead wrong. It may just be a pad issue. Let's look at all the evidence first.
- -Matt
Sig removed by user.
Mine was a vibration that happened with a light application of the brakes between about 40 and 70. It turned out to be the suspension, and not the brakes at all, though could be related to a small imbalance or warp (no brake rotor is *perfectly* flat).
If you have not changed anything in the suspension, it may be time for shocks, and/or control arms (ball joints). Changing the suspension has completely cured any brake related vibration on my car.
You know where to find my write-ups
Good luck Pika!
Bernman
yes you're right,,, i jumped to a conclusion without any real thought put into it,,, if someone else posted what i posted, i would have jumped all over them. hahaha
i bought the zimmermanns not because they were drilled, but because they were affordable,,, and i put in new pbr metal masters at the same time,,,
yes, the wobble could be caused by many things,,, at this point, all i know is that this wobble began to happen immediately after putting on the new rotors... so far, i have had the tires rebalanced but that didn't help,,, then i rotated them too, also didn't help,, so i guess that's fair to say that its not likely a wheel issue.
i did attempt to bed in the new pads using a procedure that is often posted here and on other websites... some people might recall that i had a very bad rotor/pad smoking problem initially after installation but it went away. supposedly, people said this was just burn off of a surface protection coating,, i don't know,, it really smoked a lot and smelled like more than just a coating buring off.
one last thing, the rotors make a very rapid clicking or ticking noise when the brakes are applied. kind of like the sound when you spin the wheel on a "life" game board. is this typical of drilled rotors?
anyway, i've not had much good results from this brake setup. at times, it even feels like i'm not getting the same braking power as my stock rotors with metal master pads - but that's probably more in my imagination than anything.
so this is my first experience with drilled rotors,,, it has been worrisome...
that clicking sound can be one of two things:
more likely
1 - your brake pad clip(s) can be broken/crimped allowing the pad to rattle and move around in the caliper...not a good thing
less likely
2 - you have a broken suspension point or one of your bushings is worn to hell. it usually becomes present when you lift the car/wheel off the ground allowing the suspension to unsettle. when you bring the car back to earth the suspension can't settle back properly do to what ever failed...I've been there already with a loose shock bushing.
least likely but most dangerous
3 - your wheel(s) aren't seated properly to the hub. you'll notice this only when you brake or possibly under speed. yes, been here to with a lousy mechanic.
Hey man, I'm a professional!
QUOTE]More importantly, did you bed the pads in properly to the new rotors? Regardless of pad type/manufacturer, if proper bedding in does not take place, uneven material transfer from the pad to the rotor is likely. [/QUOTE] What do you mean by beding your pads?
Thanks
Mark
he means breaking in the brake pads properly with the new rotors.
another reason why you don't beat the heck out of a new car...since you have to break it in.
there are many ways to do this and the most important is NOT drive like a tool for the first 100 miles. you need to be like Miss Daisy till you finish the 100 miles or you just wasted all your new parts.
Run a search on this topic to pull up the archives.
Hey man, I'm a professional!
My latest experience with wobbly brakes turned out to be unevenly torqued rims! believe it or not it has a huge affect. I would try removing the rims, clean off any junk that might be on the rim and then retorque to 75 ft. lbs. star pattern.
1998 528i
Aspen Silver w/Gray interior
Completely stock (at least for now)
---------------------------------------------
1992 325i (For Sale)
150K miles
Bilstein HDs, Dinan chip, K&N
Originally posted by jb325
My latest experience with wobbly brakes turned out to be unevenly torqued rims! believe it or not it has a huge affect. I would try removing the rims, clean off any junk that might be on the rim and then retorque to 75 ft. lbs. star pattern.
reason #3
Hey man, I'm a professional!
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