I've been having some issues with my clutch safety switch engaging/disengaging basically at the floor board. It is actually to the point where I've had to re adjust the clutch stop in order to get the car to start and one it does I believe that the pressure plate fingers are actually making contact with the clutch disc. This has all occured since I've installed a twin disk so its taken some time to realize where the problem actually is.
Has anyone else had issues with their safety switch not changing state or progressively changing state lower and lower ? It is an easy part to switch out obviously, but I'd like to know if this is common on the e46s.
Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
The rest is just smoke and tires
-Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-
I've never encountered an issue with the clutch switch positioning on an E46. That said, the switch is supposed to work when the pedal is on the floor, not somewhere else.
The pressure plate fingers making contact with the clutch disc? I hope not, or something is SERIOUSLY screwed up in the bellhousing. Why do you think this? Why are you using a twin disc clutch? Forced induction?
The clutch switch mounts on a fairly thin metal bracket which can be bent. There's really no pressure on the bracket, but it would be a form of adjustment. Is your clutch stop an aftermarket piece? Again, why? The stock stop in the correct location works just fine.
The problem is almost certainly with the aftermarket pieces, not th clutch switch itself.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Yes twin Disc DKM brand is due to forced induction. The issue with the switch not allowing me to start is relatively new I drove the car after the clutch install for 3000 miles before I started having this particular problem. I think the pressure plate is making contact due to the fact that when I have the clutch depressed far enough to disengage the safety switch I can feel a pulsation in the clutch pedal, and here a sound (tick-tick-tick) consistent with that of something that is touching a rotating piece of equipment. Its only an issue when I start. I can shift and the clutch works as it should otherwise. The clutch stop is not aftermarket. However, it is not in its original location due to some issues I had when I changed a slave cylinder and didn't have the system bled well enough. Its been adjusted further down before I bled it well enough to get the issue solved.
As far as the bracket goes it appears as though it clips into a plastic bracket right on the side of the master cylinder. I dont know that I see a place where it can be bent or adjusted. part number i believe is 61319122700
Last edited by Pring; 03-16-2019 at 10:38 PM.
Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
The rest is just smoke and tires
-Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/35106766127/
I think that bracket should be metal. I've bent the damned things, trying to get the switch out.
It really sounds like you're going to be pulling the transmission anyway, to find out what's hitting what in the bellhousing. As a wild-assed guess, you've got a throw-out bearing issue, maybe the sleeve it rides on is bad.
Since you've clearly done things "all the way", is it safe to assume you changed the pivot pin, and lubed everything when the clutch went in? Did you have a look at the sleeve the throw-out bearing rides on? If you have to go back in, I'd have to recommend replacing the clutch fork. It's cheap.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
All of the above was changed when the clutch was installed. Fork,ss pivot pin, new tob, I even did the ss clutch lines. If I have to tear the tranny out again it will be a very bad day.
I bought a new switch and I'm in the process of replacing a bad themostat and getting the water pump while im in there so the car is ready for the weather to break here in NE Ohio. I should have things back together by this weekend. I'll report back. If not I'll be tearing the tranny out.
Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
The rest is just smoke and tires
-Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0094
So I replaced the safety switch (item 24 in the diagram above) and it has not fixed my issue. Currently I believe that my safety switch is not allowing the starter to engage until my clutch pedal is depressed farther than it should. I do not think it is within the mechanics of the clutch but the electrical portion not being satisfied early enough in the master cylinder stroke.
The safety switch is a hall effect sensor and it clips right on to the body of the master cylinder. I'm curious to know whether my issue is based on my current master cylinder being faulty and not satisfying the sensor at the right height. Can anyone confirm how the system works, or what triggers that hall effect sensor within the master cylinder as it moves throughout its stroke.
I'd probably be willing to try a new master before spending the effort pulling the transmission to look at the throw out beating and associated clutch parts. I was just hoping someone would have some insight because I really do not want to pull the tranny again but I will if I have to. Thanks for the help in advance.
Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
The rest is just smoke and tires
-Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-
Bookmarks