ews - dme resync problem

[riverdadd]

Hello guys, i have spent a while reading and researching. I have outfitted my laptop with INPA 5.0.6 I have the K+DCAN cable with the green board....pins 7 and 8 jumped together.

My new to me 2001 BMW 540i 6 speed will crank when key is turned but will not start. I cannot hear fuel pump prime, but I did pull up back seat and jump pump so I know that it works. I can get INPA to read EWS module ant it says i have a good key .... the read status says "error ecu rejected"...

I cannot get laptop to read DME module to complete the resync. The previous owner let battery go flat and thats why i think everything went out of sync.... New battery installed.

any ideas or thought welcome. I'm super excited to be in this e39.....129000 miles with timing chains and radiator work completed by previous owner.


The inpa download came from Mikes, with ncs dummy and expert too

[geargrinder]

Hey RiverDadBand.

You mighta seen this already but at any rate I can tell even if you haven't, you've done good homework.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2398842-EWS-3-3-101-Why-your-car-won-t-start-and-why-your-mechanic-and-friends-are-wrong

I like your "EWS sync from flat battery" hypothesis a lot.

But are you saying you can't read the DME at all?
Does the check engine light come on when the key is in full on position? If no, then the DME is either hung up or borked or wiring problem etc.

Might try disconnecting the DME for a few minutes, plugging it back in, then see if you can talk to it via the cable. If it comes up then, try the re-sync immediately and see what happens.


.

[riverdadd]

GG... i read and reread you post .... it definitely guided me to this point. on your suggestion, i popped out the DME... youch!! i think i found my problem. the DME housing looked like a operating room.... so clean and sterile. outside of the DME is untarnished

but when i removed the DME connectors... water and corrosion... im effed.... i prolly need a new DME at the least. 1 pin was gone due to corrosion..... several other pins have a blueish gunk buildup


SO.... my DME search begins DME 7 508 698

thanks to you guys and this website. any suggestions welcome
riverdadd

any suggestions

[JimLev]

Post a pic of the DME showing which pin is missing.
I should be able to tell you what it connects to. You may be able to fix it.
I've done this in the past to help others with corroded connectors/pins.

[geargrinder]

Yeah. Honestly I'd say clone it...

[riverdadd]

OK GG, etal.... a quick ebay search showed a used DME with my part # for $35...... is this my best option and have the used ebay DME programmed to work in my car by someone? or is there a better option ??

I also saw a "ebay package " DME set with a ews module and key set for around 300....



thoughts welcomed

[JimLev]

$35...grab it.

[geargrinder]

You have a PM from me...

[riverdadd]

Thanks guys .... really appreciate the helpDME roached.jpg

[geargrinder]

DANG! yep that's what happens. Actually all the pins are there so hoepfully the DME will still boot OK on the bench and we can clone it off easily.

[JimLev]

I think I see a missing pin, more later.

[JimLev]

Looks like pin 32 is missing.
Those connectors could be cleaned up BUT you never know what will happen to the pins inside the connector housing that you can't get to.

DMEroached_1.JPG


Dscn9033a.jpg

[Chedley]

So, pin-32 (Diagnostic for K-Line) is missing. Does it mean that you cannot communicate via the K-line ?
If so, this DME is useless for 1997-2006 cars such as the OP's car (2001 BMW 540i) , unless he can resurrect that pin.

[riverdadd]

that pin is gone for sure. I going to have the DME cloned. in preparation of the cloned DME, what should be done with the wire harness connections? and what measures should be taken to prevent a re-occurrence of this problem?

[JimLev]

You'll need to figure out how either water got in there (bottom of cabin filter not installed correctly in the corner) or coolant wicking up thru the t-stat heater cable.

Do you know how to slide out the 2 rows of connectors inside the DME plugs to see if the mating pins inside the cable connectors are also corroded?
Pin 32 connects to a white/violet wire that goes to the OBD connector, pin 17 under the hood (if you have one) and to the OBD port under the dash.
If your good with soldering you might want to open up the DME to solder a wire to the PC board, then connect the wire to the pin 32 white/violet wire in the connector.
If all is well you should then be able to communicate with the DME and then get your DME cloned.

GG, got any other info?

[riverdadd]

Thanks Jim, i will look at connectors today to eval their condition. i'm not familiar with how to slide out the connectors. but will google it

the housing under the cabin filter looked really clean with no evidence of any water entry, top was secured....... but once i pulled the connections off the DME, that's where i found moisture. ( and corrosion) so I am leaning to the wicking scenario...

more to follow

[JimLev]

If you look at the side of the DME connector you'll see a little tab that will allow you to slide out the 2 rows of connectors that are inside the main DME plug.

[geargrinder]

Jim you're right, the good news is that the K-line also appears at the big main power/ground connector. So it should be no problem to read/write on the bench, although it'll require some inspection inside to confirm there aren't other problems... hopefully that rotted-off pin didn't cause any other short issues. I have a couple DME's where the car had such bad shorting problems that hard components actually fried. Thats an exception and I always say these things are pretty bulletproof, but... random shorts going every which way are kinda hard to predict what might happen...

[riverdadd]

well as a follow up, and a huge thanks gear grinder and everyone else, I'm happy to report the car now runs!

I installed the "new" DME and was able to see it in INPA, i resynched the key and she fired right up and settled into a very smooth idle. I took her out for my maiden voyage..... 6 speeds of buttery smoothness.... im so happy, and wife will be too!! now to address the electrical gremlins with the lights and wipers.... wipers wont work and lights wont go out!! more searching the forum! thanks guys

[mattmar1]

which lights wont go out? do they run your battery down? most likely the LKM, that module controls all external lighting on your car, and some IKE stuff as well.

[Chedley]

Lights wont go out ?! You probably kept the "canadian" settings on the DME, that keep lights always on. It is a programmable parameter, with INPA / NCSExpert /…..

[riverdadd]

I'm sure the dme is correct.

this car has the water intrusion in the passenger footwell, which has been addressed ( fuse panel disassembled and cleaned). so i think i need to look at LKM

the lighting that stays on are the side marker parking lights and brake lights (these flicker when car is running). plus no low beams and a constant passenger reverse light.... so i'm going to look at LKM for evidence of water intrusion. the message center says "lights on" i have unplugged light switch and lights stay on.... its weird

[JimLev]

When you unplug the light switch some of the lights will come on.

[geargrinder]

Robert that’s awesome. That old DME was well and truly F’d as I said. I’m thrilled to hear it runs well with a proper ECU. Did you replace the thermostat to prevent more coolant wicking ?

Definitely like Jim says if you unplug the light switch the lights come on. So that symptom is unrelated, but your other symptoms I think are legit to pursue. If the floorboard shorts were really bad, for sure the light module could have been borked.

[riverdadd]

thnakss GG , i haven't replaced thermostat yet, it's on my list, i want to get lights and wipers fixed first. here is a picture of my passenger footwell fuse panel..... not too badfuse block.jpgfuse 2.jpg