Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
Why do you want to replace the cam to cam chain tensioner, #13?
You can buy the pads #14 and just replace them.
I've never tried to replace them with the tensioner unit bolted to the head.
It might be possible, however if you've never worked on this part of the engine before I would attempt doing it this way.
Member
I've never done vanos on a bmw before. It will be the first time rebuilding them, this summer when I do.Originally Posted by JimLev
I don't want to replace cam chain tensioner I just want to rebuild it.
Replacing them is pricy but parts to rebuild them are cheap at least what I found.
The o rings on the piston part of the tensioner is drying up and getting hard.
And like I said before the guides for them have play and are sliding off the tensioner.
I'm assuming the guides just slide and click onto the tensioner.
My guides are worn but not where the chain slides. It's more off just the channels of the guide that slide on the tensioner have gotten worn so there is play making them slide off thus making my chain loose for the cams.
I will take pictures tonight to show more detail.
But yeah I was wondering if you could slide the guides off the tensioner without having to take apart the whole vanos system.
Or is it possible taking out the tensioner witout having to take off the chain sprockets or whatever there called.
The tensioner is only held in by 2 10 mm
Is what it looks like. Along with the chain obviously.
So is there a way to remove the chain without messing with the timing along with the tensioner is what I'm asking.
It doesn't look like I could remove the cam chain guides on the bottom part of the tensioner. But the top one at least on the passanger side, slides right off with ease so I'm sure I could replace that one without taking out the tensioner
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
Post a few pics.
I have some of the tensioner assy here with pads, I'll snap a few pics later today for you showing what you need to do.
Member
Thanks JimLev
I appreciate all the help you bring to the forums!
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
I just looked at the parts I have, will post pics later.
If you are saying the small chain pads are sliding forward then they could be broken. (updated this from my earlier text as it wasn't 100% accurate).
The pads that are installed from the rear cannot move forward unless they are broken.
The pads that are installed from the front should not be able to move forward either.
To get the cam to cam tensioner out to replace the pads the tensioner will need to be removed which means the cam to cam chain will need to be removed (exhaust sprocket removed), which will require the engine to be timed.
With the chain out of the way the tensioner can be easily removed (two 10mm nuts) and pulled up to remove.
Dscn2711.jpg
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DSCN2708.JPG
Last edited by JimLev; 03-18-2019 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Correction and added pic
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
Oday, where's your pic??
Member
Never got the chance to take the pics because girlfriend loves our buddies hot tube so when I got off work we went to there house and basicly didn't get around to it.
Regardless today is Tuesday which means my gaskets come in. So you'll definitely get some pictures here in about 2 and a half hours sorry
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
Pics from the hot tub?
Just kidding.
Member
Lmao I'm genuinely laughinggood one
All jokes aside tho
I did run home before work was over(to take my gf to Work because her 528i is rip rn) and I managed to snap some pics of the tensioner.
One pic is what the tensioner looked like when I took off the cover. The guide was slid forward making contact with the chain chipping the guide.
One photo is the guide pushed back into its correct position
One picture is the play in the chain.
and one pic is of the driver side of the engine which isn't doing what the drive side is doing but I thought I might as well take a. Pic for documentation lol
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Member
Isn't the play in the chain normal?
Because once you start the car oil gets into the tensioner pushing the chain up to tensioner ( I might be wrong on this)
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Member
In the forth picture (the picture of the drive side part of the engine) you can see the black o ring. That o ring, when I push down the tensioner, makes a rubbing noise when the tensioner expands. Making me think it's dry and needing to be replaced. I assume it's supposed to be a smooth movement. Not some dragging, Skippy motion. Am I right or is this just how they are?Lmao I'm genuinely laughing
All jokes aside tho
I did run home before work was over(to take my gf to Work because her 528i is rip rn) and I managed to snap some pics of the tensioner.
One pic is what the tensioner looked like when I took off the cover. The guide was slid forward making contact with the chain chipping the guide.
One photo is the guide pushed back into its correct position
One picture is the play in the chain.
and one pic is of the driver side of the engine which isn't doing what the drive side is doing but I thought I might as well take a. Pic for documentation lol
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
Oil pressure does push the center piston up, there is also a spring inside to keep pressure on the piston when the engine is off. Not sure what o-ring your referring too. I'll look at the pics on my computer later today.
The pads should not move, you need to replace them. More later.
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
See if this helps you out.
Tensioner.JPG
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Member
Wow thats is very helpful! The thing I thought was a"o ring" is what is grabbing and not sliding smoothly. What is it made of what is it? I don't have timing tools so I'll have to wait to rebuild it all. The car has a rattle on start up but only when cold. I'm assuming it's because of the tensioner. Then my knocking noise from the vanos. I don't have timing tools so do you think the car is OK to drive with the tensioners like that or should I rebuild them before I drive it again.
What are the risks of driving it like that besides performance issues. Will the chain skip you think?
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VCG came in a day late.... It's whatever
I love getting packages. It's like Christmas
The valve cover with the original paint on it came from an x5 vs my original 260,000 mile valve covers with all the paint flaked off
Getting ready to swap boots on coil packs.
Old boots were toast
New boots look great.
Always gotta add the
dielectric grease
For extra mechanic points of course
Currently cleaning up the covers for tomorrows installation.... But I ran out of brake cleaner..... Damn
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
All the parts in the tensioner are metal. More later.
Yes, year round Christmas is nice.
With me building a car for the last year UPS, FedEx, and the USPS are always here. 3 times this week.
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
DSCN1062.JPG
DSCN1063.JPG
I couldn't get the sleeve out of the one on the left.
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Member
Wow thats very good information! Litterly answered everything. I hope people in the future benifit from this because there's no other place on the internet that gives that much detail about the cam tensioners besides I guess realoem but even then still!
Thanks again Jim. now, do you know where I could even find parts for the tensioners?
Springs and stuff like that.
I can find the guides on ecs tuning
What bothers me is if you type in "bmw m62 camshaft tensioner guide" into Google, it always brings up stuff about the main timing chain. Very annoying. I'm glad your able to share all this!
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
I think you have to buy the whole assy. Never seen individual parts available.
The complete assy isn't that expensive as long as you don't buy it from the dealer.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...RoCJrEQAvD_BwE
Member
That's not a bad price at all! I've been seeing them go for 110 bucks for just 1 on other sights. What timing tools do you recommend? Because I've seen all different kinds ranging from 60 to 500 bucks. But all I need is simple not complex timing tools that fit correctly
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
I've got Koch tools that I've had for probably 10+ years.
Some peeps like GAS tools, you've got to make sure you install the trigger wheels tools correctly otherwise you'll get a code. GG has a pic in the "P0011 code" post showing the correct position for the GAS trigger wheel jigs.
In addition to the either kit you'll need a crank holder, a 3/4" drive 27mm socket, 3/4" breaker bar, a pipe, and a 27mm wrench.
See post 194.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...11-code/page20
Last edited by JimLev; 03-21-2019 at 10:31 AM. Reason: added link
Member
Thanks that's handy I'll order me some tools and parts tomorrow cuz Friday lol.
As to the channels of my valve covers. The channels look pretty clean but all I used was brushes and brake cleaner.
Can I use some sandpaper just in the valve cover channels to get a more smooth finish or will that mess up the magnesium?
I don't want the magnesium to oxidize then ruin the seal in the channel making my gaskets leak. Is that a thing I should even worry about? I kinda just want to clean it(leave original finish) then powder coat them in the future but not right now. I don't care about it looking pretty I just want it to function without malfunction. I would blast them but I don't have anything to blast it with or know anywhere that can.
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So I'm currently cleaning my "new" valve cover. They came from an x5 and I didn't know about this open port hole in the valve cover. The 540i valve cover has the port but the hole is blocked.
What's the best way to fix this?
Or am I screwed
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Member
Rtv maybe? Put a piece of card bord on inside of cover then fill hole with Rtv. Remove cardboard after 2 minutes then let cure for 24 hour then good to go? Would that work maybe? Metal cap? Rubber hose?So I'm currently cleaning my "new" valve cover. They came from an x5 and I didn't know about this open port hole in the valve cover. The 540i valve cover has the port but the hole is blocked.
What's the best way to fix this?
Or am I screwed
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
You can sand the gasket groove. I do it on all the VC that I've powder coated in the past, clean them right down to the metal.
The inside of those X5 VC look pretty bad, hope you can clean them up.
That open port in the drivers side cover was for a PVC port, block it off any way you can.
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