M62 sudden no start?!? Valve covers?

[Oday0111]

You can sand the gasket groove. I do it on all the VC that I've powder coated in the past, clean them right down to the metal.
The inside of those X5 VC look pretty bad, hope you can clean them up.
That open port in the drivers side cover was for a PVC port, block it off any way you can.

Lol yeah I took the pic of the x5 valve cover in the middle of cleaning it. I'm still cleaning it just went to the store and got some more supplies. I'm really ocd about my vehicles and I try to do the best I can with the tools I'm given. Hopefully these soft brushes I got will help clean them up better.

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[Chedley]

Curious question about the upper timing chain tensioner (pictured in posts #38, 41, 42 and 43 above):
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_7557 (Part #13. part number 11311435027)

Do you think the spring is collapsing, and therefore possibly causing the start up rattle?
Can you compare the spring's dimensions of the new vs. the old tensioner ? Maybe you just have to replace the spring in the old tensioner??

[JimLev]

Oday, timing tools for sale cheap on eBay, see post 116
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-guides/page12

[Oday0111]

Ok so update


I got the valve covers on after dealing with a whole lot of BS and I'm still not done with the job

I have a total of.... 4-6 bolts stripped from the previous owner.... I should of known something was up before beacsue the old gasket around the valve cover was still flexible.... Meaning it was still probably a relatively new gasket.

The driver side is solid besides 1 middle one on the timing cover.

It's when you get to the passanger side you start to wonder what the heck happend

I was putting in the studs for the valve cover because 3 off them cam with the cap nut.
The first one I tried putting in was the lower back on closest to the firewall. It simply just didn't want to thread in straight or easy. Thought it was the thread so tried a different stud and still no go. So then I looked in more detail and to cut it short there was 3 of the 4 on the bottom part of the valve cover that are stripped good 2 of them hold torque but one doesn't hold at all you can pull the stud in and out of the thread when you try to tighten it up.

So now I know what I need and that's the cam bearing caps or whatever but I can't find any and all the junk cars around me are 6 cylinders. There's one E32 v8 but I know that's not gonna work. So where can I find the cam bearing caps I know bmw didn't make any I looked through all the forums about it.

I would take them to a machine shop but I would have to take 3 out of 5 cam caps to a machine shop but the issue there is are you only supposed to take one cap out at a time?
That would result in me going to the machine shop 3 separate times.

The timing cover ones I can just helicoil or replace timing cover for used one on ebay.

The valve covers on and secure the threads that were able to gets some bight and torque down are squishing the rubber garment good because I used double washer method. I can't be for sure if the cap nuts bottomed out tho.

But for the one thread that's not getting a bite on the stud, I can walk out to my car right now and just pull the whole thing out even tho I tightened it up.

I did this job on a e38 a while ago and had it done in 2 days but this 540.is kicking my asssssss only because PO was lacking.

Sorry for the choppy text. Im not as fluid on a phone as I am on computer



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[JimLev]

The studs on the cam caps can be replaced, they should be listed in RealOEM.
If the threads in the cam caps are stripped that's a different story. Those threaded holes have a passage thru part of the threads that feeds oil to the cam journals so you should replace the caps. They are numbered as to the position they go in.
One member (Peter?) had to replace a cap or 2 and found that the used ones he got matched up good even though they were from a different cam cap location.

[Oday0111]

The studs on the cam caps can be replaced, they should be listed in RealOEM.
If the threads in the cam caps are stripped that's a different story. Those threaded holes have a passage thru part of the threads that feeds oil to the cam journals so you should replace the caps. They are numbered as to the position they go in.
One member (Peter?) had to replace a cap or 2 and found that the used ones he got matched up good even though they were from a different cam cap location.

The threads in the cam caps are what is stripped. I have 3 that are stripped. I would replace them but I have no source to get them. The only place I can think isy old e38 that I sold to a friend but he plans on fixing up the e38 other then that I've already looked around for junk e39s and e38s but nothing only 528i 530 yada yada


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[Oday0111]

I just need to find me a parts engine honestly. So many things have been done wrong to this car. Frustrating

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[JimLev]

IIRC Danny Z helped Peter out when he was looking for cam caps. Shoot Danny a PM, he may still have some junker engines kicking around in his garage or shop.

[Oday0111]

IIRC Danny Z helped Peter out when he was looking for cam caps. Shoot Danny a PM, he may still have some junker engines kicking around in his garage or shop.

Thanks for that just PMed him and William540i

Tonight I'm gonna start the car last night I tried but low battery of course so borrowing fat jump box from work to see if I can bring it back to life!! Then after this is all settled... Upper timing cover gaskets and vanos job!

Can't wait to get this car back in shape. I love driving this car so much. I thought my 528 was fun this 540i has such more. Power

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[Oday0111]

So now after charging the battery, the car is acting super wonky.

first try was ok, it cranked and backfired twice but no start.

Second try was just long crank no start.

Third try I let it sit in key pos 2 and then cranked it. Engine almost started but didn't.

Cranked it a few more times all it did was crank and crank.

Then I pushed the pedal half way twice real quick while cranking and something Strang happened...

The car ticks like it's git a dead battery but then it ticks over and over and over making the the power to the car (lights dash radio) go on off on off then it stops and the car goes Ding lol

Then sometimes it will do that and the car will catch and start to crank over

Is it just a dead battery? Even tho I just charged it.

I'm gonna use a different battery charger just to see if it's the charger.



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[Oday0111]

I have a question regarding the battery.

Do you have to charge the battery via the posts in the hood.

Or can you take the battery out of the car charge it then put it back in.

I know not to charge the battery via direct connection with the posts attached. But I don't wanna run a cord all the way through my yard to charge my bmw I rather fake the battery out and charge it in the house

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[Chedley]

You should charge the battery via the posts under the hood.
Make sure its voltage reads at least 12.5 volts when fully charged.

[JimLev]

Either way is fine.
Your battery is sealed with any H2 gasses going out the vent tube under the car so there is no possibility of a spark from the charger cables causing any issues.
If your still worried connect the charger directly to the battery before it's plugged in to the wall outlet.

[Oday0111]

Either way is fine.
Your battery is sealed with any H2 gasses going out the vent tube under the car so there is no possibility of a spark from the charger cables causing any issues.
If your still worried connect the charger directly to the battery before it's plugged in to the wall outlet.

Perfect. That's what I'm doing now. I have my battery charging in my kitchen. Loaned the charger from my buddy and he said to get it to work you haft to hook up the battery and then plug it into the wall.

I'm going to get it full charge (check with meter and with charger) throw it in the car, check and see the volts through the cluster menu, hopefully 12.9. We shall see from there!

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[Oday0111]

So tested my battery and it seemed bad. I charged it again and when it was in the car the car read 11.9 V. With a voltmeter hooked to the battery the battery said 12.10-12.35 with headlights on

When I cranked car over the volts dipped into the 7-8 volt region telling me that the battery was not giving enough CCA

So I went out and bought a new battery.

Installed the battery tried to start (almost but not quite just right at the tip of starting)
No start.... Looked at my volts with the meter and it said 12.3 so my new battery wasn't fully charged....

So now I'm annoyed because this battery Is supposed to put out 12.9 but it's only putting out 12.3. Now I'm charging my jump pack getting ready to charge and jump my car hopefully. This battery should be good just has low charge.

Hopefully I don't have a faulty computer..

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[JimLev]

A good/new battery will read 12.6 volts (2.2 volts/cell) after the surface charge from a battery charger is bleed off.
What did the new battery read when you tried to start the engine?

[Oday0111]

A good/new battery will read 12.6 volts (2.2 volts/cell) after the surface charge from a battery charger is bleed off.
What did the new battery read when you tried to start the engine?

The new battery, after I attempted to start it, jump down to 12.20-12.40 it never once hit around the 12.6 region. I made sure to bleed off surface charge via the headlights.

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[Oday0111]

I know it's getting fuel I can smell the injectors spraying.

I know I'm getting air that's for sure

I don't think I'm getting spark.

Crank sensor new

Battery new

Spark plugs new

Coil boots new

Fuses good

Exhaust will sometimes pop(cat back exhaust)

Engine will sometimes grab and begin like it's about to start up but then backs off and just keeps cranking

No codes

So I really feel like it's a spark issue.

Why?

I know I'm getting gas
I know I'm getting air
Not sure on the spark
My thinking on why..

low volts in battery

Means not enough juice to make spark

Means not enough combustion to start car

That's just my trouble shooting thought process. Is there something else I should check?




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[Oday0111]

Ok so now that I'm home I just hooked up my battery jumper box to the main terminal s in the hood. Let it charge.

I checked with the gadge cluster of the volts they were 12.1-12.2 with the jumper attached. Left it alone for a while. And now it was at 12.3-12.4

Thought to myself to give it a shot with he jumper box attached and when I did the car gurgled out the exhaust of combustion sounds but not good enough to start.
Looked at my volts and they dropped down to 12.00 and now my car was hessatant to turn over.

Looked at the volts of the battery with the voltmeter and it said 12.35

So what I'm doing now is charging the battery more. Hopefully bring it up to 12.6 and give it a shot then.

With the volt meter hooked up the battery while charging it with direct connection not using the bonnet connections. (don't worry the battery isn't connected to the battery leads) I get 12.8....

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[Oday0111]

So did some more testing and my battery is fully charged at 12.85 volts. Tested with volt meter and battery charger.

Battery is in battery with car terminal cables all hooked up is 12.75

Go to interior to see the cluster reading and it says 12.10v

Sooooooo what does this mean? Somethings has gone wrong in the connection. Car thinks it's only getting 12.1 but the battery is fully charged and volt meter is saying other wise.



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[mattmar1]

A good/new battery will read 12.6 volts (2.2 volts/cell) after the surface charge from a battery charger is bleed off.
What did the new battery read when you tried to start the engine?

i do believe that each cell when fully charged should read 2.1 vdc , minor difference though.

[Oday0111]

Ok so I'm really pissed off and frustrated I need somebody help.

My car will not start for the love of me.

OBC=12.0 V
Battery with car cables attached =12.4-12.6
Terminals under hood on engine=12.4-12.6

Cranking the key, starter will engage, but for 1 or 2 cranks then
must retry start sequence

Sometimes it will not even start just click

What is the issue here do I have a break in the wire?

A fuse I missed?

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[Oday0111]

Ok so here is a update....lol been a while but I think I narrowed it down.

After I re did my valve cover gaskets and spark plugs the car didn't start. We know this already. New battery didn't fix it. So I ended up getting a starter also. That didn't fix but it did fix the long cranking issue I had. The old starter would bog down after cranking. Now it's brand new Bosch.

So while that all went down I decided to replace the ccv.... The bottom center bolt was stripped.... So I had to take the manifold out... Ended up rebuilding the whole intake manifold. New gaskets on every part of the manifold. Rebuilt the injectors and replaced ones that looked in bad shape....

So nowwwww. I tried starting it with all that. I noticed no fuel was getting into the rail. Had a buddy hold my spark plug and coil to see if we had spark during crank.

No fuel pump noice no spark....

So checked the cam sensors. One was bmw brand. One had no brand stapled on it.

Tested them both.

The bmw one "works"

The cheap one doesn't Change value when you place metal on the sensor telling me it isn't working properly. The whole reason I didn't check this first was because I never had a code for cps.

Ordered 2 new cps sensors. There in today. Let's see if my e39 will finally start....

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[mattmar1]

no spark no fuel pressure but it cranks over....hadda replace battery....check this out

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ends-are-wrong

[Oday0111]

Still no start. Charging the laptop to plug up inpa. Pulled 3 of 8 ignition coils so far...

They read 1.4 ohms not 0.8

Hmmm

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