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Thread: M62 sudden no start?!? Valve covers?

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    M62 sudden no start?!? Valve covers?

    So yesterday was a good day, till my car died in boys&girls parking lot...

    Just got off work after installing new rear tires on my 540i
    Heading home I park the car for a hour, before going and getting my gf from work

    On my way to getting her I'm cruzing I'm in a parking lot not a block from home then Boom!
    My car made a solid pop noise. Sorda like a exhaust back fire which this car does easily.
    But when the pop happened, trans failsafe prog message came up..
    I thought ok I'm gonna put the car home real quick before this gets bad.
    So I tried turning my car off and back on just to get my other gears back to get it home

    Well my car wouldn't start up.....

    So I'm sitting there in a turn lane trying to start my car.

    So basically the car cranks but won't start.
    Sometimes it will start but it'll Rev up (because my foot on the throttle) around 4000 rpm then Rev down and pop at 400-800 range.

    Car has had leaking VCG
    6 of the 8 coil boots have oil on them
    Took out the coil packs to look and the rubber on the tips of them are falling off.

    Plugged in basic tool scanner, had 5 codes 4 o2 1 wheel speed nothing new had since I bought the car

    So my question is,
    Is this a transmission related issue?
    A dme ecu related issue?
    Or a spark issue with oil, plugs, and VCG

    Sorry for long write up I like to give detail




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    Changing all the boots and the valve cover gaskets would be a good start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Changing all the boots and the valve cover gaskets would be a good start.
    That's what I was planning on ordering today on Bavauto. VCG, boots, plugs, oil change kit

    I was waiting to get my other set of Valve Covers to get powder coated then I was gonna do the job. But now looks like I'm just gonna have to wait on the powder coating

    But my plugs where weat with oil when I bought the car. It been driving with leaky valve covers for a while. Why all the sudden the car not start?
    It's not like it was gradually getting bad either. If I would of never turned my car off the car would of stayed running just with the transmission fail safe. I turned car off for less then 5 secs before attempting to start it again.

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    Guess you didn't see my post the other day about BavAuto closing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Guess you didn't see my post the other day about BavAuto closing.
    I saw the title but didn't get to look at the post in the moment then I forgot to go back and look. Are they really closing?

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    Yup, a friend tried to call them a few days ago.....no answer.
    FCP Euro will have what you need.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Yup, a friend tried to call them a few days ago.....no answer.
    FCP Euro will have what you need.
    Yeah I just took the time to read posts about it.
    Sad I bought all my parts pretty much from that website

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    Check crankshaft sensor mine went bad and it went into failsafe

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    Quote Originally Posted by eman2007 View Post
    Check crankshaft sensor mine went bad and it went into failsafe
    Thanks for the suggestion I'll llok at that for sure. I had a 740il that had a no start issue. The cam sensor, and crank sensor(along with other things) was bad. So that should be nothing new to me /hard to replace. If I remember right crank sensors can go bad without throwing a code, along with cam. So that's a good idea. I just don't remember how to diagnose the crank sensor. Have to look it up again

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oday0111 View Post
    ….
    I was waiting to get my other set of Valve Covers to get powder coated then I was gonna do the job. But now looks like I'm just gonna have to wait on the powder coating
    …..

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    Do NOT powder coat your valve covers of the M62TU engine. These are magnesium coated covers. Just thoroughly clean them up with engine degreaser, dry them and reinstall.

    As to the "Transmission fail safe" message, it can be caused by a bad or failing battery or alternator. So, first step would be to recharge your battery and check test your alternator.
    Last edited by Chedley; 03-15-2019 at 04:35 PM.

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    Nothing wrong with powder coating magnesium. Just gotta mask off the mounting surface is all.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

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    I had my valve covers powdercoated. All of the surfaces that has rubber seals on them bubbled up and flaked off, now they're leaking worse than before. I'm about to have them cerakoted, but I don't know if they'll hold up. I'd only trust a knowledgeable guy doing the powdercoat, like Jim Lev used to do, baking the oily crud good and long before coating them.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chedley View Post
    Do NOT powder coat your valve covers of the M62TU engine. These are magnesium coated covers. Just thoroughly clean them up with engine degreaser, dry them and reinstall.
    Why the negativity?
    These are not magnesium coated, they are magnesium all the way thru. The coating is some type of (epoxy?) paint that doesn't hold up long term.
    Many of us have powder coated them and they hold up just fine as long as you prep them properly before coating.

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    I've been keeping my mouth shut, but as a painter I'm finally going to jump in and offer my opinion.
    I hate powder coat.
    There, I said it.
    Now before I joined the forum, and heard from the masses, I painted my valve covers. Factory silver.
    I will say, it takes a long time to blast them properly. Then I soaked in purple cleaner and reblasted them. I didn't know about baking them. Still haven't done that since I have no problems.
    Epoxy primer and single stage urethane. 5 years and 27k miles, look good, no leaks on gasket.
    The factory coating is how I tell how trashed the engine on a BMW is.
    First it turns yellow, then starts peeling, exposing the gray primer, which is epoxy.
    The hotter the engine gets, the quicker this happens. Especially if overheated.
    I have friends who own powder coating business's, so I could get it done easily if I wanted too.
    Cost is the only advantage to powder. And once powder coated, it's way more difficult to strip and repaint.
    I can hear it now.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chedley View Post

    As to the "Transmission fail safe" message, it can be caused by a bad or failing battery or alternator. So, first step would be to recharge your battery and check test your alternator.
    That's for that. I did do a battery test on my car and the battery is good.... But it is getting to the end of its life and has its hiccups. Will definitely check that out

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    Quote Originally Posted by wagons ho View Post
    I've been keeping my mouth shut, but as a painter I'm finally going to jump in and offer my opinion.
    I hate powder coat.
    There, I said it.
    Now before I joined the forum, and heard from the masses, I painted my valve covers. Factory silver.
    I will say, it takes a long time to blast them properly. Then I soaked in purple cleaner and reblasted them. I didn't know about baking them. Still haven't done that since I have no problems.
    Epoxy primer and single stage urethane. 5 years and 27k miles, look good, no leaks on gasket.
    The factory coating is how I tell how trashed the engine on a BMW is.
    First it turns yellow, then starts peeling, exposing the gray primer, which is epoxy.
    The hotter the engine gets, the quicker this happens. Especially if overheated.
    I have friends who own powder coating business's, so I could get it done easily if I wanted too.
    Cost is the only advantage to powder. And once powder coated, it's way more difficult to strip and repaint.
    I can hear it now.....
    In my opinion... Powder coating is best option when done CORRECTLY

    Some small business half job power coaters will probably coat alot of surfaces that shouldn't need coated. Making the powder coat brake off when applying the valve covers. Along with correct prep work like baking

    But professional jobs make the cover much more lasting and durable plus different clean looks like finish wise. What's so wrong with powder?

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    Last edited by Oday0111; 03-15-2019 at 08:55 PM.

  17. #17
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    [QUOTE=Oday0111;30223199]In my opinion... Powder coating is best option when done CORRECTLY


    Then you should get them powder coated.

    I don't like it. Just my opinion.
    Powder is spray on plastic. Prone to cracking when flexed. Best performance is when coating completely surrounds the item, which would mean coating the gasket groove all at the same time.
    Chunky buildup in the groove sounds like poor prep during blasting. The nature of powder should result in a perfectly smooth surface throughout.
    Blasting the valve cover completely clean is very time consuming and I doubt a production shop would spend the time to do it right. Like 2hrs of time just in prep.
    Of course I spend the same amount of time to prep for paint.
    Then I prime. Does powder have a primer coat? It's available now. More money.
    Get a quote, make your choice.

    But is your trans problem related to your running problem, or did it exist before?
    You need to get the car running before worrying about pretty as you might have bigger problems.

  18. #18
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    I know what he’s talking about, most painters don’t like powdercoat, the whole process, all that crap.
    I have full access to a buddy’s machine shop in which I built his powdercoat booth, and the oven. The oven is big enough to park an E39 in and comfortably open the door, get out, walk around to the other side, open up the rear door and pull the box out holding the valve covers. Lol

    You just have to know how to properly do it, and just like regular paint, most of it is in the prep work, what with masking with the special masking tape that stands up to 400 degrees. Doing all this while wearing gloves to keep your skin oils off of the surfaces. The secret to good powdercoat is a nice thin coating, bake it for 20 mins, then I hit it with a second thicker coat, bake again for 20mins. If you cheap out and buy crap powder, you’re gonna get a crap paint job. Source the powder from a good source, I get everything from Prismatic Powders. They’ve just got the best selection of colors, and I have not had any issues with their powder.
    The shop got the Wagner gun and the cart that vibrates the box of powder, you don’t need all that, but it just makes everything much easier swapping colors and keeps the gun from clogging up, not cheap, what with all the odds and ends, all together, it was over $10,000, but by the time we were spraying the second batch of stuff for a client, 3 letter designation government group of guys, on the first project, it already paid for itself and then some. I got called in a lot to do jobs because the painters my buddy Greg was getting were classic painters that just couldn’t embrace the whole powder coating process, rather than learn all the secrets, they would just say F’ it and walk. So I was getting paid good coin to come in and do side work, powdercoating a thousand special washers.... like big giant fender washers for the US NAVY, bigger than a compact dis,c and about a quarter inch thick, made of ballistic metal, don’t know what they used them for, don’t care, I know absolutely nothing, Colonel Hogan!!!
    Also did a lot of stuff for the rail gun project for the good guys out at Dahlgren. Interesting stuff!!!

    But stuff that I had done for myself, control levers and foot pegs for my motorcycles, one of which, done way back in 2001, still properly coated, minimum wear from my boots on the pegs, just amazing awesome stuff!!!
    Cerakote, now that stuff I want to get a batch and start spraying! It is so thin, yet the coverage is just absolutely phenomenal!!! I’m gonna start doing that this summer, have a few AR’s that I want to do up. Have a couple motorcycle projects I want to use it on too. Not cheap, but it is worth it.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  19. #19
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    [QUOTE=wagons ho;30223238]
    Quote Originally Posted by Oday0111 View Post
    In my opinion... Powder coating is best option when done CORRECTLY


    Then you should get them powder coated.

    I don't like it. Just my opinion.
    Powder is spray on plastic. Prone to cracking when flexed. Best performance is when coating completely surrounds the item, which would mean coating the gasket groove all at the same time.
    Chunky buildup in the groove sounds like poor prep during blasting. The nature of powder should result in a perfectly smooth surface throughout.
    Blasting the valve cover completely clean is very time consuming and I doubt a production shop would spend the time to do it right. Like 2hrs of time just in prep.
    Of course I spend the same amount of time to prep for paint.
    Then I prime. Does powder have a primer coat? It's available now. More money.
    Get a quote, make your choice.

    But is your trans problem related to your running problem, or did it exist before?
    You need to get the car running before worrying about pretty as you might have bigger problems.
    Transmission thing is a normal separate problem related to low fluid. (fluid weep through trans cooler line) it's only came on 3 times before and that was in really cold weather.

    usually when the car isn't warm enough with low fluid(I fill it. I'm fixing it soon) trans slips then car throws code.
    But this time car didn't slip or show any signs of transmission fault.

    The car misfired or broke something..... (big bang pop sound ) then threw transmission code making me think I broke the transmission.

    I was just asking if there was anyway that could be effecting the car to start.

    I mean the whole reason I turned off the car was to have all my gears back

    So I could get home easier since I was only a block away from home. (I even ended up pushing the car home today) But the car never started back up.

    I could of kept driving but I didn't (should of kept it on, drive it home)

    Try and start...

    just cranked forever just like if it was a crank sensor. But it was just odd that I get the trans code, turn the car off, never comes back on even though the cylinders were firing 5 seconds before.

    The car was slightly below 12 o'clock warm.

    I'm really thinking crank sensor or plug issue with coils and valve cover.

    Checked for fuel at the rail. Good there

    I'll check all my fuses over tomorrow and see if I didn't pop dme fuse or something ignition related

    Already ordered parts. They will be here Tuesday. I'm gonna bust out the valve cover job in a day. Get back on the road!

    Side note
    Still need to install my calipers. But I'm gonna order new rotors first...
    The calipers are the most recent and last part I got from Bavauto.... Sad



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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    I know what he’s talking about, most painters don’t like powdercoat, the whole process, all that crap.
    I have full access to a buddy’s machine shop in which I built his powdercoat booth, and the oven. The oven is big enough to park an E39 in and comfortably open the door, get out, walk around to the other side, open up the rear door and pull the box out holding the valve covers. Lol

    You just have to know how to properly do it, and just like regular paint, most of it is in the prep work, what with masking with the special masking tape that stands up to 400 degrees. Doing all this while wearing gloves to keep your skin oils off of the surfaces. The secret to good powdercoat is a nice thin coating, bake it for 20 mins, then I hit it with a second thicker coat, bake again for 20mins. If you cheap out and buy crap powder, you’re gonna get a crap paint job. Source the powder from a good source, I get everything from Prismatic Powders. They’ve just got the best selection of colors, and I have not had any issues with their powder.
    The shop got the Wagner gun and the cart that vibrates the box of powder, you don’t need all that, but it just makes everything much easier swapping colors and keeps the gun from clogging up, not cheap, what with all the odds and ends, all together, it was over $10,000, but by the time we were spraying the second batch of stuff for a client, 3 letter designation government group of guys, on the first project, it already paid for itself and then some. I got called in a lot to do jobs because the painters my buddy Greg was getting were classic painters that just couldn’t embrace the whole powder coating process, rather than learn all the secrets, they would just say F’ it and walk. So I was getting paid good coin to come in and do side work, powdercoating a thousand special washers.... like big giant fender washers for the US NAVY, bigger than a compact dis,c and about a quarter inch thick, made of ballistic metal, don’t know what they used them for, don’t care, I know absolutely nothing, Colonel Hogan!!!
    Also did a lot of stuff for the rail gun project for the good guys out at Dahlgren. Interesting stuff!!!

    But stuff that I had done for myself, control levers and foot pegs for my motorcycles, one of which, done way back in 2001, still properly coated, minimum wear from my boots on the pegs, just amazing awesome stuff!!!
    Cerakote, now that stuff I want to get a batch and start spraying! It is so thin, yet the coverage is just absolutely phenomenal!!! I’m gonna start doing that this summer, have a few AR’s that I want to do up. Have a couple motorcycle projects I want to use it on too. Not cheap, but it is worth it.
    That's what I'm talking about that's powder coat done right and you pay for the quality right? Powder might be more costly but the quality and durability is better right?

    I've been putting off the valve cover job because I can't find a shop near me that does this good of a job in terms of powder coating. Most places near me like to do more industrial type things.

    And idk if I can trust most shops near me to do a quality job.

    I have a set of valve covers just waiting to be cleaned up and installed on my car... Just want a clean finish and gasket channel first... But since my car is acting up sooner then hoped I guess I'll just have to throw them on without powedering them.

    All well I'll just take the original set and powder them then just swap them out in the future.



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    I also decided to be proactive and replace the upper timing cover gasket just because why not and I'm sure it's got small leaks on it anyways.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wagons ho View Post
    I've been keeping my mouth shut, but as a painter I'm finally going to jump in and offer my opinion.
    I hate powder coat.
    There, I said it.
    I will say, it takes a long time to blast them properly.
    Cost is the only advantage to powder. And once powder coated, it's way more difficult to strip and repaint.
    I can hear it now.....
    Everybody is entitled to their opinion.
    I find it's quicker and easier to strip the VC using regular paint stripper that you put on with a brush, then use a putty knife to remove the old paint, then blast the crevices.
    I've blasted them before, it's slower and the cleanup, especially on the inside, takes a fair amount of time.
    Cost isn't the only advantage, it's much more durable than paint and you don't need to wait many hours for it to dry.
    10-15 min after you pull it out of the oven it's ready to install.
    Baking at 50ºF higher than the cure temp and solvent cleaning needs to be done to get the oil out of both sides of the VC so when the powder is cured there isn't any oil vapors outgassing and getting into the powder. This isn't a problem on any of the other parts of the engine that aren't magnesium.

  23. #23
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    Ok so yesterday I thought It would be a good time to start taking apart the top half of my car. I even let my girlfriend have a hand in it.

    I have a question about a couple things.
    I have a vanos knock on this car. I plan replacing the vanos this summer when it gets warmer along with new timing chain guides for peace of mind.

    Well when I removed the valve cover on Bank 2 I noticed the cam chain was a little playful. Timing chain was super tight which is good. I look in more detail and the cam tensioner guide on the top part of the tensioner was actually slid towards the front part of the engine and was actually just almost touching the timing chain. (I'll provide pictures to better show what I mean)
    I don't believe this is normal and I want to rebuild the tensioners. But I don't want to have to take apart the whole vanos and timing system to do so.

    So my question is, is there a way to remove the tensioner without removing the timing chain or without taking apart all the vanos components.

    Like I said I just want to replace the guide on the tensioner and the o ring. But don't want to get in to deep after all I was only planning to replace valve cover gaskets and upper timing cover gaskets.

    Also I broke off the 90° elbow that goes into the back of the ccv system on the back of the intake manifold, to the brake booster vacuum system.
    I found the part on ecs tuning for 35 bucks.

    But I was wanting to have this job done by Tuesday or wensday. Do you think a hardware store would have something like the plastic 90° fitting that comes from factory.
    I ask because I don't want to pay for 1 day shipping for a 35 dollar part

    Thanks

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  24. #24
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    So, are you talking about the lower timing chain tensioner (Item #19 in this diagram) ?
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DN63-USA-07-2001-E39-BMW-540i&diagId=11_7556#11311741236If so, yes you can easily remove and replace it without even removing the valve covers.

    As to the brake booster vacuum elbow, I think it is best if you replace the whole pcv/ccv plate on the back of the manifold, and install the new booster elbow.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chedley View Post
    So, are you talking about the lower timing chain tensioner (Item #19 in this diagram) ?
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DN63-USA-07-2001-E39-BMW-540i&diagId=11_7556#11311741236If so, yes you can easily remove and replace it without even removing the valve covers.

    As to the brake booster vacuum elbow, I think it is best if you replace the whole pcv/ccv plate on the back of the manifold, and install the new booster elbow.
    No sir not the TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER. I replaced that in December.

    I'm describing the CAMSHAFT CHAIN TENSIONER, the tensioner for the camshaft that's connected to the vanos.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_7557

    #13. part number 11311435027

    That's the tensioner. The guides for them

    (#14. Part number 11311435028)



    where slipping off and touching the ENGINE TIMING CHAIN

    I slide them back on to there correct position. But yeah that's the part I'm talking about. Not the main timing chain tensioner



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