Where to get silicone intake boots?

[armenh7]

Sorry if this has been asked before but I couldn't find much for E46s. I remember mishimoto used to make silicone intake boots but they stopped producing those. Would I have to measure my throttle body and just get a generic silicone boot? I don't like how the M54 manifold placed the throttle body so low but I don't know if that'll be an issue since you can make the intercooler piping work with how you need it to be.

[ba114]

I just bought mishimoto a couple of months ago, so they can still be found.
As mentioned in other threads, you're not likely to find much for e46s here, best to stick to e46fanatics over there.

[armenh7]

I just bought mishimoto a couple of months ago, so they can still be found.
As mentioned in other threads, you're not likely to find much for e46s here, best to stick to e46fanatics over there.

I know but I find bimmerforums to include a lot more experienced members with forced induction. I was hoping maybe someone may know where I can even get it custom made

[IR M5]

Maybe shoot NickG of Technique Tuning an email. He might still be selling turbo kits/parts.

[armenh7]

Maybe shoot NickG of Technique Tuning an email. He might still be selling turbo kits/parts.

This is why I prefer bimmerforums for FI
I'll shoot him a message

[armenh7]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=17p...fHEg85OLGUnEad




I ended up getting this off ebay and it worked pretty well https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-inch-76-m...53.m2749.l2649

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I have a quick question though. Is the f-connector able to see boost? I was planning on just making a small hole in the boot and jb-welding the f-connector inside it.

[somebody5788]

You can't use JB weld on a flexible silicone boot. For one, it's flexible... for another silicone doesn't stick to very much.

General safe rule is if it doesn't connect after the throttle body where there's vacuum then it shouldn't see boost. The IAC only slightly breaks the rule since it connects before AND after the throttle body and should be left in that configuration or else it will be a boost leak.

[armenh7]

You can't use JB weld on a flexible silicone boot. For one, it's flexible... for another silicone doesn't stick to very much.

General safe rule is if it doesn't connect after the throttle body where there's vacuum then it shouldn't see boost. The IAC only slightly breaks the rule since it connects before AND after the throttle body and should be left in that configuration or else it will be a boost leak.

Thanks for the reply. I will be deleting the ICV as I've been told many times that it can get stuck open under boost. This silicone boot isn't super flexible but I understand the point you're making. I will try to find something that will stick.
Will the check valve that I'm looking for be one for vacuum to air or something? I'm not sure what the term is if there isn't vacuum and it isn't boost. Atmospheric pressure?

[armenh7]

Maybe something like this? http://www.siliconeintakes.com/liqui...d--p-9582.html

[ba114]

just plug the F connector. Find another manifold source for the line to the FPR.

[armenh7]

It isn't just the fpr, the brake booster connects to it too

[somebody5788]

Thanks for the reply. I will be deleting the ICV as I've been told many times that it can get stuck open under boost. This silicone boot isn't super flexible but I understand the point you're making. I will try to find something that will stick.
Will the check valve that I'm looking for be one for vacuum to air or something? I'm not sure what the term is if there isn't vacuum and it isn't boost. Atmospheric pressure?

I don't know who told you they get stuck open from boost but it's totally false I don't suggest removing it. The valve will have more pressure on it at idle due to the vacuum on one side and atmospheric pressure on the other that it's more like running 20 or more psi at idle and when in boost the pressure is even on both sides of it so it's like running nothing.

[armenh7]

I don't know who told you they get stuck open from boost but it's totally false I don't suggest removing it. The valve will have more pressure on it at idle due to the vacuum on one side and atmospheric pressure on the other that it's more like running 20 or more psi at idle and when in boost the pressure is even on both sides of it so it's like running nothing.

Ah I see. I was told by two fellow boosted E46 owners and Alexander Hopwood from Hopwood motorsports. I already figured out how to do my ICV delete so that really isn't a big deal anymore. My question remains for the check valve. I think this may work http://www.siliconeintakes.com/liqui...d--p-9582.html

[ba114]

It isn't just the fpr, the brake booster connects to it too

there's no issues with plugging it. Have done so myself

[Braymond141]

If you want silicone that is aesthetically pleasing, check out this UK vendor. https://www.performancesiliconehoses...-hoses-9-c.asp

Fairly expensive, but worth it in my opinion.

[armenh7]

Here's what I ended up coming up with and in theory it should work out well - The bungs are a makeshift F-connector for the fuel filter and brake booster hoses
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=771739&d=1554313172

[somebody5788]

Ah I see. I was told by two fellow boosted E46 owners and Alexander Hopwood from Hopwood motorsports. I already figured out how to do my ICV delete so that really isn't a big deal anymore. My question remains for the check valve. I think this may work http://www.siliconeintakes.com/liqui...d--p-9582.html

You could run into stalling issues without it

[armenh7]

You could run into stalling issues without it

If the DME isn't tuned for it, right?
Here's what my reference point is https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title...l_Valve_Delete

[somebody5788]

If the DME isn't tuned for it, right?
Here's what my reference point is https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title...l_Valve_Delete

Tuning for it is a bandage. It "works" but it's not the correct way to do it.

[armenh7]

Tuning for it is a bandage. It "works" but it's not the correct way to do it.

You give out great advice, so I will be listening to you. It seems like I'll have to do something similar to how I did for my f connectors? Have a bung welded on and find a fitting that would be the right size for the icv. It would have to be silicone, right?

[armenh7]

Here's the new setup:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_tH...ew?usp=sharing
The dual sided fitting is the new "F-connector" and the other barb is for the ICV