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Thread: Intermittent 1222 Code, disappears after releasing accelerator

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    My Cars
    BMW 325i 1989

    Intermittent 1222 Code, disappears after releasing accelerator *SOLVED 3/12/19*

    Whats up everyone I got a problem I've been trying to tackle for the last month.

    Welp, it's that time. I'm trying to smog my car. The vehicle drives fine, idles fine, but if I stay at a steady mile too long, CHECK light pops up, I will let go off the accelerator and it will disappear.
    The code that keeps appearing is 1222. It disappears every time that I let go of the accelerator, and I've tested this over and over. It disappears every time. It also appears if idling too long, but once I accelerate and let go, it's gone.

    Here's some numbers:

    Fuel Pressure: 35-36PSI
    Fuel Pressure w/o vacuum: 40PSI
    MPG: 28-30 Highway, 18-20 Streets
    Battery Voltage: 12.2
    Battery Voltage when on: 14.2
    Remove ICV when on: no change
    Idle RPM: 750 (stable)

    O2 Sensor - replaced less than 4000 miles Bosch.
    Spark plugs are burning normal, also new wires
    Air filter- replaced
    Throttle body cleaned
    MAF cleaned with MAF cleaner
    Fixed Fuel Pump O ring - a bunch of gas leaked out when I went to fill up full tank, it was due to the large O ring between the fuel pump and tank
    No oil residue at the "bitch" tube, O ring at tube - replaced, spring is also brand new, pressed up nicely against bottom of the intake
    TPS clicks immediately at throttle change
    Dip stick o rings - replaced

    Vaccum Leak test:
    Remove dip stick test: Pass - Engine runs rough
    Remove oil cap test: Pass - Engine runs rough
    Remove gas cap: Pass - Engine runs rough
    Smoke Test: Did not see any smoke, although a little bit will come out of the oil dip stick tube if I remove it, no where else. I've been reading that
    it's normal, due to it having no where else to escape, but through the "bitch" tube.
    Carb cleaner test around fuel injectors, no results.


    Help me my friends!

    Thank you
    Last edited by Winhotel; 03-12-2019 at 08:21 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    1,005
    My Cars
    90 ix, 91 i & ic, 02 325
    1222 for Motronic is Lambda Control 1 error - which points to the O2 sensor.

    Since you indicated that you replaced the O2 sensor - it could be reading correctly - just indicating a too rich or too lean air / fuel mixture... so this could be a few things. (Fuel Pressure is one but that looks to be within spec) vacuum leaks - (also checked) - so maybe look at Temp sensor - faulty AFM (you said MAF - do you have a MAF or an AFM?) - maybe sticky ICV - maybe fuel injector issue.. You could check cap and rotor - but if your spark plugs are fine then I would probably hold off..

    Also - are you getting this info from a scanner or STOMP test.. just curious.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    90 ix, 91 i & ic, 02 325
    Looking at the Bentley - Fuel pressure with load (idling) would be between 40.6- 46.4 and if you remove the vacuum it should increase (as it does). Not real sure that is the problem - but it is below the specs..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    BMW 325i 1989
    Oh yea, cap and rotor were replaced less than 4000 miles.

    The temp sensor would be the inner blue one right?, the brown one is the temp gauge? I will try replacing that.

    I believe its a MAF I have this one:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...97#13621286615

    It's got the thin wire that get heated.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
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    BMW 325i 1989
    Quote Originally Posted by 95BMWIC View Post
    Looking at the Bentley - Fuel pressure with load (idling) would be between 40.6- 46.4 and if you remove the vacuum it should increase (as it does). Not real sure that is the problem - but it is below the specs..

    Hmm... got me thinking. When I press on the gas while parked, it goes down to like 32 PSI, isn't the pressure suppose to go up when I press the gas?

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    90 ix, 91 i & ic, 02 325
    I believe thats called an AFM (Air Flow Meter) which is a Potentiometer - There are aftermarket MAF devices that will fit an E30. If you had one of those - it would probably be my starting point. But since you have the stock AFM - then maybe start somewhere else. http://e28-535i.com/technical/AFM%20Repair.pdf (SAME as the E30)
    The coolant temperature sensor is the blue one.

    To test fuel pressure when idling remove the vacuum hose from the regulator and the pressure should increase. Do not press on the gas. Reconnect the hose and check that the pressure returns to the lower regulating pressure.
    Last edited by 95BMWIC; 03-11-2019 at 09:53 PM. Reason: clarify that the link is for info on AFM - 944 is similiar to the E30

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    BMW 325i 1989
    Quote Originally Posted by 95BMWIC View Post
    I believe thats called an AFM (Air Flow Meter) which is a Potentiometer - There are aftermarket MAF devices that will fit an E30. If you had one of those - it would probably be my starting point. But since you have the stock AFM - then maybe start somewhere else. http://e28-535i.com/technical/AFM%20Repair.pdf (SAME as the E30)
    The coolant temperature sensor is the blue one.

    To test fuel pressure when idling remove the vacuum hose from the regulator and the pressure should increase. Do not press on the gas. Reconnect the hose and check that the pressure returns to the lower regulating pressure.

    Yes, I got 36 PSI, which seems below spec according to above post, and when I take out the vacuum it goes to 40 PSI, and returns to 36 PSI when put it back. If I step on the gas it goes down to 32PSI.

  8. #8
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    BMW 325i 1989
    *Update*

    Well, I figured the engine was running rich, due to the gas smell coming from the exhaust. Which would mean there's more fuel than needed, or just not enough air. I decided to adjust the AFM , which I thought was a MAF.
    I turned my dial clockwise 2 clicks to make it more lean, providing more air for that extra fuel that was getting burned, that didn't solve it yet check engine still appeared, so I turned it clockwise another 2 clicks, a total of 4 clicks, and drove the car.
    Getting better gas mileage, the gas smell from the exhaust is gone, and the intermittent check light has disappeared for good after doing a 20 mile test drive.

    I got the information from this clip, starts at 10:30 to 11:43
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-QlPtsjh7g

    Thanks all, and special thanks to 95BMWIC for leading me towards that direction

    Case closed!

    Time for the smog check

    Note: This is after making sure I had no vacuum leaks, O2 sensor was working properly, battery was good, spark was good, a clean air filter, and making sure my fuel pressure wasn't behaving weird.
    Last edited by Winhotel; 03-12-2019 at 08:23 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
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    My Cars
    BMW 325i 1989
    California Smog Results: PASSED!

    %CO2 @ 15mph: 15.5
    %CO2 @ 25mph: 15.2
    %O2 @ 15mph: 0
    %O2 @ 25mph: 0

    HC(PPM): 58/108
    CO%: 0.09/0.50
    NO(PPM): 31/537

    Air Fuel Ratio: 14.3

    I could probably turn the AFM one tick counterclockwise to get that to 14.7:1, passed the emissions in California!

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