Hi there, disconnected a line on my fuel filter while in the process of looking into replacing the 3 braided hoses. The filter is relatively new.
What is the torque spec? and since i loosened it up, do i need to replace the crush washer? I did a search but couldn't find anything....
thanks,
Baron
Is it copper or aluminum? Copper you can heat with a torch and reuse. Aluminum should be replaced. The banjo bolts don’t need ridiculous torque either, personally I get them to german tightness (güten tight)and check for leaks. If it’s leaking a hair while running just shut it down and retorque.
-John
I had the same issue when I replaced the Bosch fuel pump, no matter how much I tightened It there was a small leak when the car was on. The solution was ordering new crush washers from Pelican parts. Fortunately for me I live just a couple of miles away and it cost 25c each. Problem solved.
I just firm them up , I dont use a torque setting and like what was said in Post # 3 new crush washers are good in sealing up gasoline connections, where they are used.
Randy
Thanks and ended up picking up some copper ones at the Mercedes dealer.
2 quick questions:
1. Is the flow of fuel from the tank : Pump, accumulator, filter and then on to the engine?
2. I’m trying to replace the 3 hoses on the suction side of the pump. Do I need to drop the tank for this?
Thanks
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Significantly easier to drop the tank. There’s an access panel below the back seat
-John
Great, thanks
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1) correct
2) negative on lowering the tank. It's easy to just tape an end of the old hose to the new hose and feed it through. There's a bracket under there that you have to massage the hose through.
some fuel flow pics. click to enlarge
fuel-flow3.gif
fuel-flow2.gif
Tbd
Thanks for the diagrams. Very helpful.
For the hose, I wasn’t sure if it connected to something on the tank. Feeding through will save some time. My hoses are pretty gross looking, so might take on replacing everything soon, but hope that replacing the 3 braided hoses will make the car run better for now...
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thanks for the feedback so far! So I was able to pull the hose through from the back seat, for the 3 new fuel lines connected with new copper washers on the fuel filter. Took a bit to get going, but seems to be running a bit better once it’s warmed up.
One more thing though. There’s a new pretty loud clicking sound from that area and can’t tell if it’s coming from the pump, accumulator or filter? Wasn’t there before. Did I need to pre fill the fuel filter before connecting it all up? Or run it to push fuel through with a hose disconnected and then button it all up for a first? Can’t seem to load a video to share what it sounds like....
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Is the clicking like a fast or intermittent rattle sound? I ask because the pump/filter/accumulator are all attached to the same mounting bracket and this bracket is 'rubber mounted', so maybe the rubber mounts are broken?
* you do not have to 'prime' the components. They prime themselves after the fuel has circulated for several seconds.
Last edited by epmedia; 03-17-2019 at 09:06 PM.
Tbd
Hmm. The mounts are pretty rough looking so maybe stretched out a bit more while I was putting things back together. One of the new hose clamps may have been too close to a hard line as well. I’ll see if I can isolate it this week. Thanks for following up.
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Speaking of clamps (hoping not too late) - It's much better to use the 'fuel injection' style hose clamps. Is that what you used?
Like this:
414SF9hWcoL._SX425_.jpg
* Or the original crimp type clamps if available in the correct size for the hoses you used.
Last edited by epmedia; 03-18-2019 at 02:34 AM.
Tbd
Well....no. Are the standard adjustable clamps not suited for this? There were a few standard ones mixed with what I thought were original crimp on clamps. Will I need to replace?
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1) They sometimes damage the hose ends because not smooth and they're not exactly 'round' when tightened. Also, sometimes require 'over tightening to make a seal, they sometimes may even loosen by them selves.
2) not necessarily (only because you're working on the (low pressure) suction-side), it's just that the FI style clamps have a superior, or 'ideal' clamping design compared to the other worm screw? type.
Last edited by epmedia; 03-18-2019 at 07:13 PM.
Tbd
I usually end up using two washers whenever I have a leak. I always do when I change filters.
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