Quick Caliper question...

[FiberFast]

Seems easier to source M3 Trailing Arms and axles.


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How much do M3 rear trailing arms and axles cost? Also you will need the swaybar and struts. I can tell you new the M3 rear trailing arms are $980 each. If you buy all new components you are in for $2K, if you find an M3 rear end on craigslist $400-$600avg you are still looking at another $1000 to rebuild it and do it justice. Seems like a pair of slips to keep your parking brake is a much more logical option. Being that 180mm OD x 160mm ID 10mm wall mild steel tubing is available (Not cheep though) and the machining required to get my parts to spec is very little. I don't expect it to be free but I can assure you it will be a fraction of the cost vs option of replacing the rear end with in my opinion, inferior components. I like the m-sport geometry, some adjustable end links and mount supports are all you really need to get more out of the 18mm rear swaybar.

[bluptgm3]

I think you are going to find that the dust shields do not support the M3 parking brake, but that is the purpose of the ‘ring’?

FYI- I picked up a complete ‘drop-out’ - M3 sub-frame, RTAs, axles, hubs for $600 in Seattle.


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[FiberFast]

That's exactly right, now rebuild it all. You are in for another $1000 at least as stated. So $1600(Ish) to do it right, new bushings, bearings, cleainging ect. Its allot, I am in the process of refreshing my rear axle at the moment. I think you are going to find that the dust shield supports an M3 disc just fine, as long as you cut or bend it so it does not interfere with the rotor. Also the calipers bolt up just fine, so long as you have the associated M3 caliper bracket. The rotor bolts straight to the 325/328 hub and lines up perfectly with the calipers. So, using the slightly modified dust cover (You can cut and bend that thing with tin snips and a hammer) you can use your stock 325 or 328 parking brake, with the use of the afformentioned slip ring that is pressed into the rotor to make up the difference in diameter between an M3 rotor/parking brake, and a 325 or 328 parking brake/rotor.
E36 Parking Brake Adapter.pdf
This is precisely what I have in mind.
In terms of engineering principal, the surface area of the pressed insert is more than twice that of the parking brake pads. So I cannot foresee any circumstance in which the ring would spin in its bore (The M3 rotor) if it is properly pressed in. Even if you hammer the brake at high speed, the slip should remain stationary, as again it will require more brake torque to turn the insert than for the parking brake pad to slip as its design intended (somewhat). The rotor itself is iron or steel and I don't foresee a thermal/coe problem or a balance problem with the mild steel insert. The component will do its job for so long as the rotor lasts, I would suggest putting them in new rotors obviously.

[bluptgm3]

I like the m-sport geometry, some adjustable end links and mount supports are all you really need to get more out of the 18mm rear swaybar.

I really do appreciate your enthusiasm for this project!!! Where are you located?

What is “M-Sport Geometry” in the rear end?

The rear sway bar mounts require Reinforcement if you plan on leaning on them with a larger bar.





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[FiberFast]

I really do appreciate your enthusiasm for this project!!! Where are you located?

What is “M-Sport Geometry” in the res end?

The rear sway bar mounts require Reinforcement if you plan on leaning on them with a larger bar.





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The M-sport suspension package my car came with had a stock 1/2" drop and slightly stiffer sport springs, it also has a 25.5mm front and 18mm rear sway bar. I am in the east bay area. You can find out what option your car came with by researching the vin number. In this case, there will be red paint on your springs and bars indicating it is the M-sport suspension. I believe only the Is cars came with this option but I could be mistaken.