Ok so I have a set of what I believe are 1995 LTW M3 hubs and brake rotors. I will have to check the numbers stamped on them again, but I don't believe there was any difference in the hubs between the LTW and standard M3. I would be putting these on my 325is and to my knowledge and extensive research these will bolt right up assuming you have adequate clearance from your rims. My question is, is there any difference in the calipers from pre and post 1996 m3's?
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Cause it looks like I can get a set of powder coated calipers for $220 from rockauto.com. and I already have everything else I need for what would be a $2200 brake upgrade. These were gifted to me... Nice gift. Also on a side note Tirerack.com has Koni Str.t struts for $380 a set shipped. Just snagged a set. About those calipers...
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-09-2019 at 09:21 PM.
You need the E36M3 front Spindles (1995 or 1996+) and Rear Trailing Arms in order to bolt-on the M3 (1995 - 1999) Calipers/Rotors.
Ideally, you want the E36M3 master cylinder to handle the extra caliper volume.
Additionally, you need 17” wheels to clear the Calipers. The front hub/bearing is the same for ALL E36. The E36M3 rear hubs are different than the non-M rear hubs. Larger rear bearing in M3 Rear Trailing Arms, and larger rear axles in 1995M3, and an even larger set in 1996+M3.
All E30 models (including the E30 M3, with later years using aluminum control arms), E36 non-M3 models and the 95 E36 M3 use the same control arm geometry. In other words, the arms are geometrically/functionally interchangeable. For example; the 95 M3 or the E30 control arms can be used on the non-M3 E36 models in order to eliminate the rubber isolated outer ball-joints.
The 1996-99 E36 M3 control arms have different geometry than all of the other E30 and E36 models noted here. The outer ball-joint and spindle mount is 10mm forward of the positioning for the other 3-series models. Additionally the Spindle to Strut attach interface changed (boss for LWR attach for lower two bolts got thicker) resulting in the tire 'tilted' closer to strut body.
This change combined with the Upper Guide Support revisions aft/outboard and Centered FLCA Bushing yields more camber at full steering lock, and the strut in static position sits more upright.
Note that the offset control arm bushings that are used on the E30 M3 and the 1995 E36 M3 are used to increase the positive caster. The 1996-99 E36 M3 accomplishes this by changing the Control Arm/Spindle/Guide Support geometry (as noted above) and using centered control arm bushings.
All p/n's pulled from realoem-dot-com
1995 Strut
LH STRUT 31312226987
RH STRUT 31312226988
REAR SHOCK 33522227794
1996+ Strut
LH STRUT 31312228007
RH STRUT 31312228008
REAR SHOCK 33522228415
95 M3 Spring “Hat”
UPR SPRING PLATE 31332227348
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31331128523
96+ M3 Spring “Hat”
UPR SPRING PLATE 31332227903
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31332227902
Canadian cars SPRING PAD UPR 9MM 31332227901
Bearing/Guide Support/LCA/LollyPop/LCAB p/ns -
95 M3
L/R GUIDE SUPPORT 31332228345
LH WISHBONE 31122227249
RH WISHBONE 31122227250
LH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139789
RH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139790
RUBBER MOUNTING F WISHBONE 31129064875
96+ M3
LH GUIDE SUPPORT 31332227897
RH GUIDE SUPPORT 31332227898
LH WISHBONE 31122228461
RH WISHBONE 31122228462
LH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139789
RH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139790
RUBBER MOUNTING WISHBONE 31129069035
Splindles
95M3
LH KING PIN 31212227357
RH KING PIN 31212227358
96+M3
LH KING PIN 31212227907
RH KING PIN 31212227908
325
Guide support 31336779613
UPR SPRING PLATE 31331135580
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31331128523
LH WISHBONE 31126758513
RH WISHBONE 31126758514
RUBBER MOUNTING F WISHBONE 31129059288
328
Guide support 31336779613
UPR SPRING PLATE 31331135580
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31331128523
LH WISHBONE 31126758513
RH WISHBONE 31126758514
RUBBER MOUNTING F WISHBONE 31129059288
Rear Spring Pads
SPRING PAD LOWER 33531135420
UPR SPRING PAD 5MM 33531136385
UPR SPRING PAD 7,5MM 33531136386
UPR SPRING PAD 10MM 33531136387
UPR SPRING PAD 15MM 33531094754
UPR SPRING PAD 21,5MM 33531091599
E30 M3 Control Arms
LH ALUMINUM WISHBONE 31121130823
RH ALUMINUM WISHBONE 31121130824
LH Steel WISHBONE 31121127725
RH Steel WISHBONE 31121127726
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 03-09-2019 at 10:52 PM.
God damn that was a comprehensive answer! Thank you. I will refer to this post in the future but from what I gather the Pre and post 96 spindles and calipers are different. Mine have "L 008 907 CDP 03" Markings on the left spindle for example... These are the post 96 spindles. From what I am reading I can just bolt these spindles on and get an alignment. No booster upgrade or trailing arm swap necessary. I have solid delrin M3 front lower control arm bushing but I have proflex urethane bushings installed and I just bought new struts and I have the OE sport springs I would like to keep so i will be a little pissed if these don't just bolt in lol... I have read several other threads and it seems like they just drop right in.
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-10-2019 at 12:25 AM.
http://jj100d.blogspot.com/2011/03/e...ike-legos.html
"OK, let's get this out of the way first: no, E36 M3 brakes will not bolt on to your 325/328. Nor will E46 M3 brakes. You can use E36 M3 brakes, if you buy E36 M3 spindles. The spindles are a direct bolt-on."
So basically from what I am reading here these should just bolt on and allow me to keep the 325is geometry. I have found several other threads where people say they have done this and it works fine. Guess I am going to find out.
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-10-2019 at 12:50 AM.
Keep in mind the differences in 1995M3 and 1996+M3 Spindles and what it takes to arrive at close to the same caster geometry, FLCAs / FLCABushings and Guide Supports (Strut mounts.)
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You can use E36 M3 calipers on a 325. You have to change the mounting bracket. Back in the day I did this on mine before going with a big brake kit. I had my friend machine the brackets so they would work. He just had to take off a little material because they were too thick at the mounting point. Worked great. Tracked it that way for several years. At one time you could buy the already made adapter brakes from Rally Road. Kinda of expensive. I also saw several guys just go to Napa and buy a rebuilt complete brake caliper for an early E46 330 (comes with bracket) and install it on their E36 325. Ran the bigger rotor too. Really cheap option. Supposedly worked great. I haven't personally installed them myself but have seen it done. Just FYI
330i front calipers on non-M spindles should be just as good as M3 calipers.
I dig all that... But I have these big ass brand new vented and slotted brakes sitting on new wheels bearing on these post 96 "907" M3 spindles. I see the calipers and pads I need are $300, I am perfectly capable of modifying things if necessary. I guess I was under the impression this would be easier is all. Maybe the modification mentioned is what need to be done to avoid the major alignment correction people have mentioned. hmmm...
Will do, more interestingly I am looking at several conversion kits and none of them have trailing arms ect... Well a few of them do, but for the most part if you go look at the kits its just the spindles, wheel bearings, discs calipers and bits.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3.../?pdk=BAMAAgEB
For instance.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...rake-Swap-Done
So whats really going on?
I am doing the M3 fronts only. The rears have drilled and slotted rotors and I will replace the rear calipers with re-manufactured 325is PowerStop units and upgraded pads, if the bias is still an issue I will upgrade the rears to a larger diameter with a kit for a 325. Not looking for much but a little better breaking and response.
There are several posts on this forum regarding this. All you need to do is bolt them on. I am not thinking there should need to be any modification at all.
So if I look at the kit here I am missing the Calipers, Caliper Brackets and Pads... Caliper brackets was not something I had considered and will add more expense to this procedure. I will probably also need some descent low buck camber plates for the front, an alignment will be in order and I will be installing koni orange shocks with my stock M-sport springs, rear delrin trailing arm bushings, end links, megan racing rear adjustable camber bars, some new bushing and bearings and things so its going to need an alignment anyways... I also need to fix the e-brake and pull the transmission again to get the new pilot bearing installed. Going to be a fun week.
- Package Includes:
- Genuine BMW M3 front spindles (left & right) (pn# 34 11 2 227 907 & 908)
- OEM / ATE BMW M3 front calipers with clip and bushings
- OEM / ATE BMW E36 M3 front caliper brackets with bolts
- M3 brake backing plates (left and right)
- M3 front rotors (standard, cross-drilled, or slotted)
- Axxis Ultimate E36 M3 pads (other options available, see below)
- Brake rotor retaining screws (2)
- Pad wear sensor
- Front wheel bearing (Hub) with the nuts and dust covers
- Caliper bushings (optional upgraded brass bushing kit available)
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-11-2019 at 02:09 AM.
Due to the added expense and the fact that I have a plethora of other annoying things to fix on my car this will be put off for a month or two. I need to focus on getting the clutch/e-brake fixed, and getting the suspension refreshed. I also need a programmable chip to tune the thing so these will have to wait a bit. Sit tight we will get to the bottom of this soon(ish)
Me thinks someone on this forum has a sense of humor or I am just very lucky or both. Regardless, I picked up a set of front and rear M3 calipers and brackets today for $60. So, they are in desperate need of a rebuild, pretty much want to replace all the rubber on them and I would prefer a kit to having to sit down and make a comprehensive list. I am so totally stoked right now, feeling blessed.
M3 brakes.jpg
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-15-2019 at 03:00 AM.
If I cant find a bracket to do this I will probably design one for the rear that allows me to bolt a M3 caliper directly onto the 325is spindle. I can get it machined locally. Anyone know of such a kit?
I mean jesus christ guys, this is the simplest brake mod ever. It is literally a Z bar milled from 0.75" steel plate with four holes in it. So now I need to figure out if the M3 disc will bolt up to the 325is hub (Bet it will) then basically all you will need to put M3 rear brakes on 325is spindles should be M3 discs, calipers and carriers bolted to a custom interim bracket. I will build these and sell them, I will let you know the price when I figure out what the machine shop wants for the work. I would imagine around $300 for a set after I tack on a little something for my efforts.
Or buy M3 rear trailing arms.
Is that all I need? Trailing arms and hubs? Hmm... I have Kline delrin rtabs, will they work on m3 trailing arms? I also have a new set of konis and some megan racing adjustable control arms. If the trailing arms work with the gear I already have then I may consider doing it. I think I need different suspension though?
Here are two of the brakes cleaned up and ready to be rebuilt. I have already polished the pistons with very fine steel wool and honed out the bores, both were rusted shut. Not a spot of rust on them when I was done and the fit is well withing spec. I used a bristle brush to remove the mass of the gunk before boiling them in vinigar, then using baby wipes to clean any remaining residue. I will pic up the parts to rebuild them in a few days. I'll even do a tutorial if you like.
20190315_201334.jpg
This took almost all day...
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-15-2019 at 11:29 PM.
Yea dog, I hope that was a joke or you got the hook on a pair, cause I just looked around and I can afford $980 per trailing arm. That right there is enough incentive for me to make a bracket. https://www.bimmerworld.com/Genuine-...27985-E36.html
Why would you buy parts that don’t wear out new?
If you can find a used set, though, you may also need M3 axles. I am not sure about that but think it’s the case.
Fair point, I have only ever see 1 bent rear trailing arm and that happened in a crash. I found a set on craigslist, for $200 each... Hmm. I may mcguiver this with the bracket. That bracket is simple and these trailing arms are going to get more expensive from here. We are entering the golden age of E36's, everyone is getting out of them and parts are plentiful, soon cometh the drought. They don't make OE parts for these anymore and we are near the end of the production stock (Extra parts manufactured during production) Meaning, if you think its hard to find these now, wait 5 years... Also, I am 99% positive if I call and disc brake manufacturer and tell them what I want they can find me a disc that will allow me to keep the rear parking brake (325is inner hub diameter, @315x20mm vented disc) If not I will design these myself because fuck that... When you start to consider what all goes into getting those brakes on, that little bracket starting to look real good.
M3 Brake Dead Piston.jpg
This piston is dead. Micro fractures, harsh scuffing, galling and pitting. That's not going back in, luckily a new one is $18 and the other one is good.
M3 Brake Bore 1.jpg
This is the brake bore before honing. Notice the discoloration, this brake got allot hotter than the other side. When removing the piston I discovered rocks! yes, rocks behind the piston... little ones, but they were in there. There is only one way those could have gotten in there. Don't take your car to jiffy lube and expect a nice brake job.
M3 Brake Bore 2.jpg
This is what the bores look like after I finish hone them. This one still has slight scuffing at the bottom of the bore, but with rocks removed and a new piston it will operate as intended. The grooves have now been cleaned and I am beginning the external cleaning, then they will be boiled.
Last edited by FiberFast; 03-16-2019 at 03:28 PM.
Ready for Paint.jpg
Need to get seals, 1 piston, brake cleaner and paint.
Will stark getting into cleaning the rotors and hubs tomorrow. I will have the rotors surfaced as well, they are brand new but they got rusty.
Typically, we do not surface rotors.
Put the stuff together and step on brake pedal.
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See that's what I told my dad and he comes at me with "You better put a real nice set of pads on first" implying I would trash them... Im going to get them surfaced anyway, what is it like $20 a rotor or some shit? Will save me from scrubbing my ass off. On a more fun note I am in the process of painting and I will post the results tonight or tomorrow, also, the fucking disc retaining allen bolt is siezed... Oh you know I fucking stripped that thing, time to pull out the easy out... Again (This is the second time I have had to do this)
Paint.jpg
Wife let me use her makeup shit for my stupid brake project... That's love right there.
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