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Thread: 325i will not hold idle/Not Start

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    corpus christi, texas
    Posts
    6,738
    My Cars
    No e30s, again :(
    I am glad its up amd going and was not some expensive fix.
    No e30s again.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    338
    My Cars
    1990 E30 325i 4 Door
    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    I am glad its up amd going and was not some expensive fix.
    Considering new crankshaft sensor, impulse sensor, ignition cables, TPS sensor and injectors...it was "expensive" but i was planning on replacing them anyways. The ignition cables were shockingly bad, once i removed the plastic cover, a couple were just shot and barely connected.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    corpus christi, texas
    Posts
    6,738
    My Cars
    No e30s, again :(
    ha ha ha, I guess you are right, it was more of an expensive fix. either way, its back on the road
    No e30s again.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    338
    My Cars
    1990 E30 325i 4 Door
    I would like to give you all an update.

    For the last few weeks, the problem has risen again. Cranks, fires and dies. The only way i could get the car to idle, is when i cracked open the TB stop screw a lot. This way i got 800-ish idle on cold and around 1.000 rpms warm idle.

    Basically bypassing the whole ICV system, in a nutshell. Till i noticed the off throttle response was rubbish, jerkiness from the engine etc.

    Even a new TPS (again) did not sold the issue and i adjusted the TB stop screw and TIPS according. I eventually pulled the DME and checked the pin readouts, as per bentley manual. From blue temp sensor, to injector firing banks, tps, all grounds etc. basically everything except AC system and auto transmission checks (its a manual). Everything is bang on at the DME pins as the Sensors, so the information to the DME is correct and the DME is receiving correct information.

    Another fuel pressure test and almost 3 bar at the rail immediately. So i figured either fuel flow or a faulty DME, and i was leaning towards a faulty DME, since getting 3 bar FP almost instantly generally means the system is flowing fine.

    I decided to get a cheap, the cheapest, second hand pump i could find, to rule out the pump before hunting for an expensive DME (they reach €300 here sometimes). I found a NEW cheap pump for €22 (+€5 for shipping) came with a new O-Ring/seal and the strainer. It was cheaper than a used pump by €30 or so (this place is mad when it comes to some used parts).

    Anyways, it arrived today, i swapped pumps and jumped the relay to test for leaks. Right away the pump sounded....smoother than before, and even listening to the fuel flow at the hoses in the engine bay (fuel rail) sounded very different.

    I held my breath and started the car, she fired up and idled ata round 900 rpms cold (TPS/Stop screw correctly adjusted as per Manual). Drove it around the block, the engine is super smooth, like running on cream smooth. No hesitation, back fire, nothing, just spot on. Warm idle is 700-800 rpms, as it should be. Apparently there was indeed a fuel pump issue all along, despite the correct pressure at the rail.

    I shall purchase a new Bosch pump and keep it in the car, till this cheap one dies, well i am expecting it to die, question is when? for €22 for a whole pump assembly including the O-ring, it will not last long.

    I definitely have a small vacuum leak somewhere, i can almost hear it when going WOT, most likely the bitch tube o-ring under the intake, not sure i shall make my own smoke detector next week and test.

    Finally, the issue is resolved, now i can focus on other areas!

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