Wife's X3 stumbling, hard to start, stalling. Codes suggest crankshaft position sensor. Decided to try to attack from below vice taking off intake manifold and potentially starter. Got it out ok (certainly not easily though), ordered the replacement sensor, O-ring and new aluminum bolt. Now however, I can't get the bolt to thread into the block. It's a "feel job" with the N52 in that you can't really see where it's going, but I even tried without the sensor installed to see if I can get it to bite. No go. We're the original owners and haven't had to replace it before, so another mechanic couldn't have screwed up the threads. As I had mentioned, getting the bolt out wasn't overly difficult once I was actually able to get the Etorx on the bolt head. I tried coming every possible angle to try to get it to get it started (as my shredded knuckles can attest to), but just can't. I'm going to soak a q-tip in some degreaser and see if I can clean out the threads, but I'm not very optimistic. Has anyone tried to retap the hole? Block is mag/aluminum alloy so I don't think hardness would be an issue so much as the limited space to work.
Why a new bolt?
Are you sure it's not your new bolt's fault rather than the hole?
E36 M3 S50 - E53 X5 M54 - 1980 Porsche 931 - 2001 Impreza RS25
I'd suggest using a flashlight and a mirror-on-a-stick to look at the hole. It's likely that the threads in the block are just fine. I do not recommend using a q-tip, or you'll likely end up with cotton blocking the hole. The hole was protected from dirt and oil by the old bolt, and the sensor.
You can buy a good 2 or 3 inch mirror on a stick at any auto parts store.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
No metal shavings on the old bolt, but certainly the threads aren't as sharp as the new one which is probably normal for an aluminum fastener. Went a step beyond the mirror and bought a ryobi inspection camera that connects via wifi (not bluetooth) to my iPhone. Crawled under the car and took a quick look. Seems there is some dark grit on the threads of the hole, so taking Chris' advice, I'm going to use a pipe cleaner vice a q-tip to clean it out and try to get it installed tomorrow. We need this car on the road ASAP so also ordered a hand tap kit as a last resort if my efforts tomorrow fail. Thanks for the advice and input. I'll keep y'all posted.
Well, add me to the chumps that learned the hard way to go with OEM parts vice cheaping out with aftermarket bits to save a buck (or $70). I finally got the aftermarket sensor (Duralast) I bought on at Amazon for $103 installed. Vehicle started, but after a good 3-4 seconds but the dash lights remained (SES, 4x4 and brake). They came back after I cleared them. Frustrated, I rushed to the dealership after confirming they had the part in stock, came back and put it in (still took awhile as it's really challenging to get the bolt, sensor, and hole lined up with out actually seeing it). She started right up and no lights. Yep, I deserve any and all "I told you so's" anyone wants to throw my way.
Last edited by CW in PB; 03-12-2019 at 10:47 AM.
We all do silly things now and again, but on a German car, if it doesn't sound German, I won't install the part. Durlast is pure junk, and how they are still able to be in business, IDK.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Just a quick note that we do nor appreciate the use of the pejorative "stealership" at this forum. You're impugning literally thousands of honest, straightforward, hard working people, as well as an above-board and honest business.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I've edited to correct. I had to look up "pejorative" and "impugn", though.
Break...
Shadow,
I didn't see in the rules where this is specifically mentioned, nor and such. Can you point me to where I can read it?
Cheers.
right there - top of the forum:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...cal-Help-Forum
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Thank you, CW !
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Sure. I read the actual rules, but admittedly didn't "read" the "Care and Feeding" sticky.
Yeah, avoid the chain stores, especially their house brands, not just for German cars.
Two points I feel compelled to address here;
1. Many of the um,.. "offshore" cheapo parts makers do their very best to sound German or at least UROpean, they certainly are not.
2. The notion that only German made parts will do or German brands are inherently superior is absurd.
OP, Rest assured the cheapest stuff will be junk and the higher priced will generally be better.
What many don't know is that big box retailers mostly sell the same poor quality stuff you'll see on E-bay (at a fraction of the cost) but branded with their name, carrying a much higher price(often more than OE straight from the dealer) and an exchange warranty that won't reimburse you for your wasted time and effort.
I found your sensor from a few on line BMW dealers selling at around $110 and Siemens/VDO(an OE supplier) at half of that.
Browsing this and other forums will show you the preferred parts vendors.
Last edited by ross1; 03-20-2019 at 11:59 AM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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