The bore of the bushing is out so, there is a big whole in the bushing. I was going to get a razor blade and trim the top of the bushing so the wheel bearing can sit flush on top of the bushing. The wheel bearing fits perfect above the bushing but, no matter how long I put the torch on the subframe, it won't budge. I will try the sawzall to cut the bushing, since there is a whole in the middle of the bushing and I'l have better leverage to cut. The driver side bushing is intact. I'm hoping I get better luck with that one.
Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:28 AM.
My sawzal is long. I can only get to the bushing in an angle. My concern is, I might cut the actual subframe. This sucker will not budge. Is there a possibility of melting the bushing onto the subframe?
I did some cuts with the sawzal but, I'm seeing metal shavings. The center bore is not in the bushing, which has the metal tube. Am I cutting into the subframe?? Or is there metal in the rubber that I'm not aware of?
The subframe bushings have metal sleeves. This same thing happened to me when doing my e24s subframe bushings, however I managed to shove a pipe in and it gripped the sides of what was left of bushing and popped it out.
Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:29 AM.
Do you think I won't cut the frame? That is my fear. I will start sawing and since I can't see how deep I'm sawing, I might cut into the frame.Any suggestions on how I should approach it so that I don't accidentally cut into the frame?Thanks in advance.
Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:29 AM.
My best advice would be cut, check, cut, check. I think you’d be able to tell once you hit subframe, knicking subframe isn’t end of world.
Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:30 AM.
Agreed. I'm just worried since I am cutting in an angle, I can't tell if I'm cutting the frame but, I'll do my best and use a pry bar to force the chunks out. Thanks for the advice!
Still can't get the sucker out. I tried the sawzal but, cutting in an angle, there's only so much I can cut. I put the bearing on top again and heated it up with a torch for almost 5 minutes and it won't budge.
They make it seem easy when they heat up the subframe but, the bushing won't budge. I have the jack as high as it can go. Not sure what else to do.
Tried drilling or a hammer and chisel?
I've never done it this way but in the thread I linked earlier:
That was from south42 and they've already posted in this thread so they might come back with more ideas.5th step: You need to remove the 2 metal pieces on the sides of the bushing. I did this with the drill after I broke my blade on the sawzal. I use the big pliers to pull them out the rest of the way.
7th step: This is where you use the chisel to cut a line up the side of the metal sheath in the bushing. You can also do this with the sawzal. Once you have cut it all the way, you want to use the chisel to knock the bushing in so that it will loosen and can be removed. Then clean the hole out to where it is nice and smooth. I used 150 grain sand paper.
It should be easy, obviously this broken one was the source of your clunk. When I started looking at e34s and buying one and knowing the first job was going to be suspension I usually searched for aussie videos first and most of what I learnt suspension wise was from this guy (E: used to be aussie fix it or something like that but they changed name as they don't fix anything much anymore LOL)
https://youtu.be/-HGUVzokpjM?t=143
Doesn't show you how to install OEM bushings, but shows you how easy the old ones should have come out.
Last edited by fo3; 03-25-2019 at 01:25 PM.
I've seen that video 10 times. LOL Interesting how easy the bushing slides out when he heats it. I just tried heating it for almost 10 minutes straight and nothing. I think I will have to jack up the car higher so I can have the sawzal vertical. That should make it easier to cut the bushing.
Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:30 AM.
I figured out the problem. The wheel bearing I'm using feels as if it sits perfectly in there but, when I went to pull it out, it's sitting on the frame lip. It seems no matter how I adjust the bearing, it doesn't seem to press down evenly. Now I have to figure out what can I use to sit above the bushing.
- - - Updated - - -
Any ideas on what I can use to put above the bushing that will sit nicely and I can quickly grab from the hardware store?
Thanks!
If you can saw / hole saw / drill etc the center piece out of the bushing you can fold the outer can (which is metal) in on itself with a prybar or similar tool. If frozen in there, an air hammer would help you to push the first bit away from the frame and get started.
I would start conceiving methods outside of pushing it out in full form. That doesn’t seem to be working.
Interesting. I thought the part that touches the frame hole wall was rubber, unless you are referring to the internals of the bushing? The new bushings I have are rubber. 'm going to jack up the car a bit higher so the sawzal fits vertically and I'll have a better angle at cutting. Thanks for the advice.
Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:31 AM.
It’s been so many years now but isn’t the OEM bushing inside a metal cylinder that you press in? Regardless that is how I remember extracting the outer portion. After drilling up the center with a hole saw and creating space to bend it all out of shape.
IIRC its an outer metal sleeve covered by rubber.
Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:31 AM.
If you still need a tool, go to pep boys, find/ ask for OEM 25966 this is exactly what I used. Use the smaller of the two sides. Get something sturdy, I used a wooden broom; you will have to pry the subframe to slide it under. Make sure it sits in the center of the bushing, as to not hit the lip. Then proceed as normal, heating around the sides of the subframe till the bushing starts sliding out. It will fall out soon enough. Then repeat on the other side, this time taking 5 minutes hopefully.
O o
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Or you could make one of these,
demet
It's made of two off the shelf pullers. I can find the link if you want.
demet
I would do like in my link and after cutting it a bit use a chisel and a good hammer (3lb) and cut the sleeve.
Andy
Update: I got most of the middle out but, I can definitely see a metal ring outside the bushing that mates with the frame. I'm afraid to cut into that metal, in fear I'l start cutting the frame.
There isn't a good spot to chisel the metal off, since the metal wraps over the bottom frame lip. I'll keep at it but, this will be interesting, given the space and angle I have.
I'm not going to even touch the other side. The bushing looks ok for now. Hopefully I can get the bushing out and smoothly put the new one in.
Still at it. It is a real pain. I've been cutting, prying, yanking and I probably got a 1/3rd of it out in pieces. Now, I'm going to drill. I can't believe how difficult this is and I haven't even touched the other side, let alone the dog bones.
These bushings are not easy to remove, that's why people have developed and documented the best ways of tackling them.
As you have learned chiselling the thing out is a lot of work. I tried once, never again.
Burning them out? I haven't seen anyone do this successfully.
Sawzall method works but you need perfect technique not to damage the subframe.
A puller works but you need to build one, buy one or borrow one from someone.
demet
[QUOTE=demetk;30229636]These bushings are not easy to remove, that's why people have developed and documented the best ways of tackling them.
As you have learned chiselling the thing out is a lot of work. I tried once, never again.
Burning them out? I haven't seen anyone do this successfully.
Sawzall method works but you need perfect technique not to damage the subframe.
A puller works but you need to build one, buy one or borrow one from someone.[/QUOTE
I'm wondering if I heat up the metal inside the bushing with my heat gun, if it will soften enough to bend with a lug wrench with a flat tip. I don't have a chisel so, I've been using a flat head screwdriver and the flat end of my lug wrench.
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