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Thread: Clunk During Shifts

  1. #26
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    Ahhh.. I see said the blind man. I didn't notice the bolt. Thank you very much! I feel more confident in doing the job this weekend. Thank you all for the advice and insight.. Much appreciated..
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:23 AM.

  2. #27
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    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...bframe-bushing

    This is my write up on doing the bushings.



    Andy

  3. #28
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    Thank you for the link! I'm going to use the chain method but, I think I'll try lowering the subframe, sliding a block of wood above the bushing, jack up the subframe , and heat the bushings until it slides out. Then use the chain method to push in the bushings. I have the bushings in the freezer! LOL
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:23 AM.

  4. #29
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    UGH.. I went to remove the rear passenger side wheel and stripped two bolts!! This is my luck. I had everything prepared, ready to go and sure enough, two bolts stripped. I had this issue a while back and bought a 16mm bolt extractor, which worked great but, guess what? I lost the extractor... Couldn't find it anywhere... That's my luck.. Just ordered another one and it'll be here Tuesday. I was really hoping to get those subframe bushings installed this weekend.. I didn't do the driver side because, my priority was the passenger side. I can feel the thump on that side. I drove the car to work today but, I'm being very gentle while driving. I'm afraid of ruining other parts. I wanted to do the subframe bushings and dogbones at the same time.
    I'm using a 17mm socket to loosen the bolts. Is that the correct size? I don't want to keep stripping bolts. Should I be using 11/16ths? 16mm is too small but, I feel 17 is just a tad too big. And I used 6 point, not 12...

  5. #30
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    It's 17mm.

    Are you missing the wheel nut tool from your kit? I've been stuck and even broken cheap sockets when using sockets before, but IMO the tool BMW supply works better and you can really jump on it with leverage unlike a looser fitting multipoint socket and ratchet. Like seriously I cursed tyre fitters and worried about breaking a stud/socket /ratchet before until I just got the BMW wheel brace out and just kicking and jumping on the thing.

    It's a joy to use, perfect fit (compared to a socket - it's just tighter than that), great leverage, nothing serious to break like a ratchet because it's just a simple wheel nut brace/bar which does the job better.
    E: This thing:

    Better than a generic lug brace or even socket and bar because it has that 'stirrup' you can really kick or stand on and it won't get loose while doing that on the socket end ever!
    Because a socket (or generic wheel brace) has a longer hex/body, they tend to get loose or round off when pounding on it. The factory one doesn't though.

    E2: First time I tried with a bar and socket I broke a socket (it was some cheap 17mm one I found and kept as a spare for car lug nuts). Second time I tried with one of my proper better sockets -the wheel bolts were that tight I was worried I was going to strip or break them. 3rd time I used a generic '4-way X cross' brace and they were just too tight - needed kicking and the wheel brace just flew off and/or threatened to round the bolt heads. After that I tried the BMW wheel brace and it was ridiculously easy. No matter how many ugga duggas the tyre shop has torqued the bolts previously.
    Last edited by fo3; 03-18-2019 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Get a bmw 17mm wheel brace. Seriously. I had dramas before without one

  6. #31
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    1989 BMW 535i, 1993 740i
    Wheel bolts are 17mm, and I just had one strip on me. Pound a 16mm on there, got the bugger off.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by theBMWbeast View Post
    Wheel bolts are 17mm, and I just had one strip on me. Pound a 16mm on there, got the bugger off.
    Tried that with a 6 point and a 12 point 16mm sockets and those continued to strip the bolt.. Oddly, the 16mm 12 point I used, I used on a previous bolt and it worked but, not this time.
    I have a 17mm IRWIN bolt extractor and that's too big but, the 16mm one worked great. I just have to wait until Tuesday. Sigh...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by fo3 View Post
    It's 17mm.

    Are you missing the wheel nut tool from your kit? I've been stuck and even broken cheap sockets when using sockets before, but IMO the tool BMW supply works better and you can really jump on it with leverage unlike a looser fitting multipoint socket and ratchet. Like seriously I cursed tyre fitters and worried about breaking a stud/socket /ratchet before until I just got the BMW wheel brace out and just kicking and jumping on the thing.

    It's a joy to use, perfect fit (compared to a socket - it's just tighter than that), great leverage, nothing serious to break like a ratchet because it's just a simple wheel nut brace/bar which does the job better.
    E: This thing:

    Better than a generic lug brace or even socket and bar because it has that 'stirrup' you can really kick or stand on and it won't get loose while doing that on the socket end ever!
    Because a socket (or generic wheel brace) has a longer hex/body, they tend to get loose or round off when pounding on it. The factory one doesn't though.

    E2: First time I tried with a bar and socket I broke a socket (it was some cheap 17mm one I found and kept as a spare for car lug nuts). Second time I tried with one of my proper better sockets -the wheel bolts were that tight I was worried I was going to strip or break them. 3rd time I used a generic '4-way X cross' brace and they were just too tight - needed kicking and the wheel brace just flew off and/or threatened to round the bolt heads. After that I tried the BMW wheel brace and it was ridiculously easy. No matter how many ugga duggas the tyre shop has torqued the bolts previously.
    When I bought the car, it didn't come with a tool. My bolts are recessed. Will the tool work? If so, I'll buy one online for future use.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewusmaximus View Post
    When I bought the car, it didn't come with a tool. My bolts are recessed. Will the tool work? If so, I'll buy one online for future use.
    I've got style 48 wheels from an e39 on my car and the bolts are pretty well recessed and I have no problem using the bmw wheel brace.
    6zwe6of.jpg
    Last edited by fo3; 03-19-2019 at 05:19 AM.

  9. #34
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    Well, my 16mm bolt extractor came in. I banged it on the bolt and of course, my breaker bar broke.. Then I used my socket wrench with a breaker bar and of course, the wrench broke. I'm going to take it to a shop to get the bolts off, throw on new ones with anti seize on them. So, when I get home, I can hopefully loosen them. That's my luck.. It's like having a dark cloud above you every time you attempt to do anything... Sigh...

  10. #35
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    Do you need a BMW tool I have a few?


    Andy

  11. #36
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    Yes! I can't keep going through this every time I get tires replaced, or anything related to removing the wheels. PM me the details. Thanks! Andrew
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:24 AM.

  12. #37
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    What tools are you using for the lug bolts? Hopefully you're using 1/2" sockets, preferably impact sockets, and breaker bars. You also need a 1/2" torque wrench to torque the bolts to 80 ft-lbs. I also don't think you should be using anti-seize on the bolts.
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:25 AM.
    demet

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    What tools are you using for the lug bolts? Hopefully you're using 1/2" sockets, preferably impact sockets, and breaker bars. You also need a 1/2" torque wrench to torque the bolts to 80 ft-lbs. I also don't think you should be using anti-seize on the bolts.
    I broke my 1/2 inch breaker bar. I also used 1/2 inch 16 and 17mm sockets, which stripped the bolts. Even thew 16mm 1/2 in socket stripped the bolt. My 16mm bolt extractor hugs on to the head, put a 22 mm socket over the extractor and snapped my breaker bar. I think the tire shop torqued them at 120 ft. lbs. I don't know why, if it requires only 80..

  14. #39
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    I'm assuming the shop used an impact driver on them. If so they torqued them way more than 120 ft-lbs, more like 250.

    If you must use anti-seize because of rust issues in your neck of the woods then apply a small amount only to the threads of the bolt. Torque spec is 72 +- 7 ft-lbs. I install my bolts clean and dry so I like to use the upper torque limit on mine which is 80 ft-lbs.
    demet

  15. #40
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    Update. I got the wheels off. I bought a new breaker bar from HF for 14 bucks and it worked great! Total 3 bolts stripped. I have a question.. I put a jack under the rotor and jacked it up. I noticed the subframe raised about a good two inches before the car started to rise.
    Is that normal? I have a wheel bearing from a 2007 Civic that is the perfect size to slide above the bushing but, my concern is, is it thick enough to push out the entire bushing? It migjht be able to push it out roughly 2/3rds but, will I be able to pull the rest of the bushing out by hand?

    Thanks in advance..
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:25 AM.

  16. #41
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    How do I get the bolts that go through the subframe bushings off? I have the nut on a few turns but, I'm worried about destroying the threads from banging. I sprayed lube from the top and from the bottom. Any ideas on how to get that bolts out?
    Thanks in advance!

  17. #42
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    Don't hit the pin threads or the nut, put a socket on the nut and hit that. The nut should have a decent amount of collar/shoulder to take the impact. I've never seen a pin really stuck in there that needs more than a couple of hits.
    If yours is really tight try a better penetrting lube, clear the inside better, or use multiple nuts tightened against each other to spread the load across more threads.
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:25 AM.

  18. #43
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    I couldn't punch mine out so rather than destroying them in the removal process I left them alone and used the saw-all method to remove the bushings.
    demet

  19. #44
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    Thanks for the advice. I was able to get the bolts out however, while I dropped the subframe, it looks as if the passenger side bushing is stuck to the frame Iguess. The metal tubing in the bushing seems stuck to the body. When I look under the bushing, I can see the metal tube further in, which tells me the tube is somehow stuck to the body? I sprayed some lube in hopes it will break it free.
    Is that normal or am I missing something? I checked the driver side and the bushing is not stuck to the body.
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:26 AM.

  20. #45
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    I was able to get the bushing out by slidng a 3/8th long extension in the metal hole from the bottom, about half way and bang the extension side to side until the piece banged off. he bushing now broken.
    The rubber housing is still in the subframe and the middle of the bushing is on the ground. Now I am trying to slide the wheel bearing above the subframe hole but, it's a pain trying to pry the frame downward and slide the bearing in.. It tough because I don't want to kink or break anything on the subframe while prying, which leaves me with little leverage..

  21. #46
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    Does anyone know how long I have to heat the bushing in order for it to slide out? I've been heating it for 10 minutes and no movement

  22. #47
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    Took me maybe 2 minutes with a blowtorch on the subframe. Heat the subframe itself, not the bushing, I made that mistake and just burnt the sh*t out of the bushing.
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:26 AM.

  23. #48
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    It's a tight spot. Can't really get to the round base of the frame. I just torched the side of it for about 5 minutes and won't budge. Should i focus on one part of the subframe? I torched it on the wheel well side, not where the jack stand is. I have a wheel bearing on the top that fits perfect, I got the jack pushing up the subframe and I torched the side for almost 5 minutes and nothing. The center bore of the bushing is out because it tore (I honestly think it was already torn, hence the thump during shifts). I don't want to melt the splash guard in the wheel well.
    Not sure what to do and I'll be losing light soon. That's my luck. Something always goes wrong.
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:27 AM.

  24. #49
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    Make sure what you’re putting in between isn’t too wide. But I mostly applied to one side. Although I tried to apply it all around.
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:27 AM.

  25. #50
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    Did you get it out?
    If the centre of the bushing is out now have a search on YT for methods on cleaning out the remains. Lots of people burn, sawzall, drill and/or hacksaw out the bushings rather than try press them out, so they're all going to have been left with the job of cleaning out of remnants like you're now faced with, eg this thread https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...bframe-bushing

    There might be some YT vids around showng exactly how but YT isn't working for me right now.
    Last edited by shogun; 03-26-2019 at 01:28 AM.

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