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Thread: Suggestions on How To Clean This Oily Mess - Valvetrain Pic

  1. #1
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    Suggestions on How To Clean This Oily Mess - Valvetrain Pic

    I recently purchased this '86 E24 and knee deep in catching up on deferred maintenance. I pulled off the valve cover last weekend to discover this mess, any ideas on how to best clean the gummy and coked mess. I was thinking maybe Seafoam and then an immediate oil change?

    Thanks!
    Yasin
    Last edited by slownrusty; 03-01-2019 at 09:15 AM.

  2. #2
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    Wow, how many miles on it? I'll be interested to see what others have to say. If you were VERY surgical about it, I would say use spray oven cleaner and a brush and contain and rinse well.
    On second thought, I'd probably run it if it's running well. Additives may help marginally.
    Last edited by slofut; 03-01-2019 at 01:29 PM.

  3. #3
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    Believe it or not, only 96k. But the car sat for a long time. I might try and clean the heavy stuff by hand and then use a high detergent oil with Risoline and gentle use with regular oil changes.

  4. #4
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    I would clean in place. Not oven cleaner. I would get plastic and tape everything off around the head. I would get a bucket of diesel fuel and a stubby parts cleaning brush and patiently start scrubbing everything off 1 section at a time. I would have 2 seperate containers of solvent and plenty of rags. It will take time but you will get through it. Sea foam is not for that and I wouldn't run that crap through my motor for all the tea in China. Just be patient and spend 2-3 hours and you will get it done and it will look right. Oven cleaner will kill everything it touches with paint on it. Diesel fuel is just real hi grade kerosene and eats right through grease.
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
    pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos

  5. #5
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    I'd just run Wally World 10w40 or 5w40 full synthetic (SuperTech) through it for a while. If I was feeling really aggressive I'd add a quart of diesel fuel. It'll clean itself up pretty quickly with the heat cycles. I'd recommend changing the oil filter element frequently since diesel is an excellent solvent. If you're not intending to run it for a while, pull the head and have it cold-dipped (if they still do that) or steam cleaned.

    That looks pretty normal for economy grade mineral oils from what I recall. I'd be patiently breaking that down with a gentle solvent like diesel instead of scrubbing it loose...hopefully not right into the camshaft bearings.
    Save the manuals!
    '08 128i 6MT, '86 635CSi 5MT (B32, Motronic 1.3, WBO2, G265, 18# FW, 3.46 torsen)
    Past projects:
    '96 318iS, sold 4/23 '90 535iM, RIP 1/23 '90 535iA RIP 6/22 '91 318i, sold 7/19 '97 M3 sedan, sold 11/18 '85 735i, RIP 2/18 '92 325iC, sold 7/16 '91 318iS, sold 6/16 '84 745i, sold 10/14 '82 633CSi, traded 9/12 '90 325i, RIP '87 325 sold '89 525i, traded '87 325iS, RIP

  6. #6
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    I agree with "DesktopDave", except i would use ATF instead of diesel fuel--ATF is very high detergent that also lubes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I recall old school type fellas talking about pulling a quart of oil, and replacing with kerosene. Then run up to temp., drain, and refill.

    I suggest kerosene with a parts brush, then a steam cleaner, then a last pass with kerosene before changing oil.

    A final "outside the box" solution, might even be a soda blasting. Soda is harmless to a substrate, and rinses clean with water. I realize it might sound crazy, but in theory a soda blasting, followed by a deionized water rinse, and a steam clean should be both safe and effective. You could finish the job off by getting some cheap oil, running it to temp. for 5 mins to cook off any remaining water, then change with your final, high quality oil.

    Jose
    Last edited by DaHose; 03-05-2019 at 12:27 AM.
    1987 M6
    Livin the dream!

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