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Thread: Braking Wobble

  1. #1
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    Braking Wobble

    Afternoon all,

    Part by part I have been rehabbing my 540. Recently, I replaced both lower control arms, outer tie rods and both thrust arms.
    This had the effect of greatly reducing my "death shake", but some wobble upon braking still remains, especially from a higher speed. When I stop and the car is under 5mph, you can visibly see the car wobble through the rear view mirror.
    My first thought was that I also need to replace the rotors, as they likely are original and I am now at 130k..but I want to be more certain so that I can save a bit on RockAuto shipping.

    The only other thing I could think of is the struts/shocks or hub bearing having some effect. Also, I hadnt replaced my inner tie rods yet. Beyond that, I've got nada

    Edit: There appears to be no inner tie rod for this car
    Last edited by bimmer7410; 02-27-2019 at 04:11 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmer7410 View Post
    Afternoon all,

    Part by part I have been rehabbing my 540. Recently, I replaced both lower control arms, outer tie rods and both thrust arms.
    This had the effect of greatly reducing my "death shake", but some wobble upon braking still remains, especially from a higher speed. When I stop and the car is under 5mph, you can visibly see the car wobble through the rear view mirror.
    My first thought was that I also need to replace the rotors, as they likely are original and I am now at 130k..but I want to be more certain so that I can save a bit on RockAuto shipping.

    The only other thing I could think of is the struts/shocks or hub bearing having some effect. Also, I hadnt replaced my inner tie rods yet. Beyond that, I've got nada

    Edit: There appears to be no inner tie rod for this car
    Pitmant arm?? And stability arm change??

    Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Inspect all the ball joints on all the arms.

  4. #4
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    You can get a dial indicator to check run-out on the rotors to see if they're warped. And while you're there, check them/clean them for residue that could cause a shake. These two won't cost too much $. However, at 130k miles, you should first off check the rotors for thickness with a micrometer, as they (and the pads) are probably at the point of needing replacement.
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  5. #5
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    I agree with Ed on checking for rotor runout. That being said, I finally solved this exact problem with my 530i5 after dealing with shaking when braking for over a year. I first replaced my rotors when they needed to be done, and later the shake appeared. I replaced thrust arms and tie rods, and finally replaced my rotors a second time. I had measured for runout and didn't find anything significant (can't remember the values), but the shake disappeared when I replaced the rotors. Later, it came back a third time, so I replaced calipers along with a third set of rotors, and the shake seems to be gone for good. I think one or both calipers were dragging, which likely caused the slight rotor runout.

    So, in short, replace the pads and rotors. If the shake goes away for good, then great. If it returns after a few thousand miles, it could be sticking calipers. That being said, be sure to eliminate suspension issues as possible causes before you do calipers, as they can be pricey. Good luck!
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  6. #6
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    You logged 130 K miles on this car, so definitely, replace the pads and rotors.
    Inspect the calipers, and at least clean and re-grease the calipers pins.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by atobe View Post
    Inspect all the ball joints on all the arms.
    Roger that

    Quote Originally Posted by Ed CT View Post
    You can get a dial indicator to check run-out on the rotors to see if they're warped. And while you're there, check them/clean them for residue that could cause a shake. These two won't cost too much $. However, at 130k miles, you should first off check the rotors for thickness with a micrometer, as they (and the pads) are probably at the point of needing replacement.
    I replaced the pads last year, but I do think that it will be a good idea to go ahead and replace them at the same time as the rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by lucas999 View Post
    I agree with Ed on checking for rotor runout. That being said, I finally solved this exact problem with my 530i5 after dealing with shaking when braking for over a year. I first replaced my rotors when they needed to be done, and later the shake appeared. I replaced thrust arms and tie rods, and finally replaced my rotors a second time. I had measured for runout and didn't find anything significant (can't remember the values), but the shake disappeared when I replaced the rotors. Later, it came back a third time, so I replaced calipers along with a third set of rotors, and the shake seems to be gone for good. I think one or both calipers were dragging, which likely caused the slight rotor runout.

    So, in short, replace the pads and rotors. If the shake goes away for good, then great. If it returns after a few thousand miles, it could be sticking calipers. That being said, be sure to eliminate suspension issues as possible causes before you do calipers, as they can be pricey. Good luck!
    Quote Originally Posted by atobe View Post
    Inspect all the ball joints on all the arms.


    Im not aware of the pitman or stability arms, but Ill replace the rotors and take a look..

  8. #8
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    If all this doesnt help, check your wheels and tires, oem 15” turned out to be at fault when i changed everything and the shake didnt disappear, local bmw specialist noted that they are pretty prone to doing it too.

  9. #9
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    To what @atobe is saying:

    This is a 540, therefore steering box, therefore steering link system is critical to inspect and replace and they DO wear out and when they do it is DANGEROUS. Normally its neither the actual "Pitman" (aka the arm that goes on the box) or idler arm (the that wears, but the 'center link' because that is what includes the balljoints on it in this design. But I'm sure that's what atobe is getting at... That said I think a lot of the kits include the idler arm anyway so that's probably a wear item to look at too... although its those center links that are the worst...

    Definitely look at that. Could be dangerous and IS typical wear/maintenance item.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    To what @atobe is saying:

    This is a 540, therefore steering box, therefore steering link system is critical to inspect and replace and they DO wear out and when they do it is DANGEROUS. Normally its neither the actual "Pitman" (aka the arm that goes on the box) or idler arm (the that wears, but the 'center link' because that is what includes the balljoints on it in this design. But I'm sure that's what atobe is getting at... That said I think a lot of the kits include the idler arm anyway so that's probably a wear item to look at too... although its those center links that are the worst...

    Definitely look at that. Could be dangerous and IS typical wear/maintenance item.
    These are definitely two parts I am unfamiliar with as this is my first steering box car that I've owned..
    I guess I'll add the following to my cart:
    -Steering Link
    -Idler arm bushing
    -Center link

    Better to knock this out now that the bank has a lil something extra from bonus season

  11. #11
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    On mine I had the wobbles sometimes if I was braking and hitting a bump, took me awhile to figure it out. Seen from here https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-32211096059kt , the two outer arm tie rod ends had some play in the ball joints, and when it got the replaced, they noticed the center link ball joints were also bad.

  12. #12
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    Ive gotten
    4 rotors
    Center link
    Idler arm bushing

    I've developed another vibration at 50-60mph that oscillates. Highly agitating considering Ive already replaced the main parts said to cause this.
    Im going to have the two front rotors done today, and the center link done in a week or two. Heres to hoping my rotors are off balance (or something along that line) because I cant enjoy my ride like this

  13. #13
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    One thing I would suggest that can contribute to the wobble and that is failure to clean and lube the centering hubs before installing the wheels and tires.

  14. #14
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    +1
    at this point in the car's life EVERYTHING has reached it's life span on any 540.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
    +1
    at this point in the car's life EVERYTHING has reached it's life span on any 540.
    Quote Originally Posted by Uturn540 View Post
    One thing I would suggest that can contribute to the wobble and that is failure to clean and lube the centering hubs before installing the wheels and tires.

    Im going to make sure to check the hub when i take the wheel off.
    And that makes sense. Everything is long worn out, but its always a process to get it back into smooth shape on every car ive had a shimmy with

  16. #16
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Thrust bushings new? If not they are classic “mystery” highway speed vibe suspects. Particularly if it’s worse when you brake from highway speed.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Thrust bushings new? If not they are classic “mystery” highway speed vibe suspects. Particularly if it’s worse when you brake from highway speed.
    Replaced both thrust arms and control arms complete with new bushings. Moog brand.

  18. #18
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    Just an update,
    shes nearly smooth as silk with the steering link and rotor replacement. Excited to drive again
    Thanks for the help everyone

  19. #19
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  20. #20
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    Eh, another update: the wobble is back and bad as ever. Braking from 60-40mph creates a SEVERE wobble. Feels like its loose.
    I remember reading somewhere that this could be caused by a stuck caliper wearing on the rotors..

  21. #21
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    If the calipers are stuck you can look into rebuilding them. The kit is relatively inexpensive and just takes some work. Part #34111157037 includes the 2 rubbers needed for rebuild of front calipers. Part # 34211164440 for the rear. At that time it would be a great opportunity to clean and paint/powder coat your calipers.

  22. #22
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    For the same cost, you can buy new professionally rebuilt calipers, and turn on your old calipers as "core".
    After you rebuild or replace the calipers, make sure you flush, replace and bleed -including ABS bleed- your brakes fluid.

  23. #23
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    To determine calipers "hanging up" which is actually calipers pistons not retracting to release the pad contact with the rotor, all that is required is a hand held temp non contact temp gauge like this model:

    There are lots of less expensive models with the ability to do the job. All you need to do is drive until you fell the issue, measure side to side front and rear rotor temp looking for one that is hotter than the other side on a given axle. The one that is the hottest is your problem. Note there are multiple mechanical issues that will give you vibrations. Most calipers when hanging up are frozen in place due to water/dirt contamination in the caliper. That is why it is recommended to bleed and flush the brake system every two years.
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  24. #24
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    Thanks for the replies. Ive been needing a temp sensor anyway, nows a good time to invest in one.
    Will report back with results.

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