I've decided to use my Z3 on a long term training trip to Louisville, KY - leaving 3rd week in May. I finished a front suspension rebuild (8 Piece Meyle HD Kit from FCPEuro) last weekend. I got new tires (Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+) and an alignment done too. The car drives like a BMW again; fingertips instead of 2 clinched fists.
This car has not been a primary driver for anyone in my family for 3 years but I have been reluctant to sell it because it is fun to drive. I'm revisiting a priority list I developed as I consider this trip. I got the car on a lift yesterday to inspect the transmission, differential, differential mount integrity, rear subframe bushings. I have an oil leak at the front of the valve train that has blown back and made a mess all over the drive line. At first I thought this was a transmission fluid leak. Reading this forum leads me to believe it is time for a VANOS seal and rattle repair from Beisan Systems and a valve cover gasket replacement. Odometer is at 105500. This shot is difficult to see but the underside of the VANOS exhaust cylinder actuator is covered in oil.
Oil Leak at VANOS.jpg
The transmission tag was eroded away, probably by the oil leak blow back. From part numbers and research, I believe I have a ZF SFD320Z transmission. The yellow sticker on the side claims lifetime oil but I am going to change it anyway. The differential was more difficult to research but I believe it to be a Torsen 3.07 open - just learned about stickers on the top from a post on this forum; will use my boroscope camera to check those out. I want to change the fluid in that too.
S5D320Z (5).jpgS5D320Z (6).jpgS5D320Z (4).jpg188N Torsen 3.07 Differential (2).jpg
If I have time, I want to install the Ireland Engineering RSB for all the reasons discussed here. Spot welds in the trunk still look good - very late production car (18 February 2002). Differential mount and bushing are still good; no sheet metal drama in the trunk or below from what I can see. (pictures to follow - I hit a limit on this post)
Cooling system threads have me concerned a bit about the water pump and viscous fan - I have no weeping at the water pump, I replaced the plastic line from the radiator to the coolant reservoir recently - new hoses are probably a good idea. I'll have a better look at this when I pull everything for the VANOS rebuild. With the fan out, I also want to stethoscope the serpentine tensioner and whatever else I can listen to for vibration.
I built up a laptop to use INPA with this car - everything in the green, no codes in memory after some work I did a couple years ago. I've learned to use TIS and EPK recently. I like TIS but prefer RealOEM.com for parts research. I'm comfortable with doing all the work on this car but concerned about time the more I dive into it. I would appreciate comments from the forum with respect to my priorities as my experience with this car is limited.
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
Radiator neck and the hoses plastic connectors are a weak point. Also the loose water pump pulley. The only time i had to call some one was when the radiator neck broke and hose came out. All the other issues, it was still ok and i was able to reach home. Even with the leaking expansion tank.
Other issues, i think it wont stop you on the road. Like the RTAB and RSFB's.
If you can, double check the cooling system and all the fluids and the tires and it should be ok.
Didn't see any new posts from Greg (gmushial). He drives a lot and lots of long trips. May be he will have some better tips.
Here's an easy one: check your spare tire. I checked mine recently and it was flat, and I couldn't air it up-- found that the valve stem was cracked/rotted.
Saneesh8 - thank you; my interest in the cooling system is bumping up on the priority list. Will research replacement parts or a new radiator that solves this problem. Will also look at the water pump (plastic impeller?? really??)Radiator neck and the hoses plastic connectors are a weak point. Also the loose water pump pulley.
Raubritter - great point. Just today studied a thread on this that was bumped from 2014. I also learned not to use the spare on a drive wheel - makes total sense to move a front wheel to the back and spare the front when you limp to the tire store. It sounds like our spare is NLA but there are alternatives for the small storage tray.Here's an easy one: check your spare tire.
Thank you for the help . . . more pics from my time on the lift yesterday:
Differential Bearing - Healthy (2).jpgDifferential Bearing - Healthy (1).jpg
Differential bearing and sheet metal still looking OK - sheet metal underneath and spot welds in the trunk also holding up; guess I'm not pushing this car hard enough. RF kit is well designed and on my list. The more I drive this car (all day today with the top down in ABQ in February !!), the higher this kit will be on my priority list.
I ordered the Beisan Systems VANOS kits today; also ordered the VCG and supporting bits in their instructions. I also picked up a liter of MTF-LT2 for the transmission and a liter of SAF-XJ for the differential. I will go back to the lift tomorrow to change these fluids.
Last edited by cushjbc; 02-27-2019 at 09:19 PM.
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
A few years ago I checked the spare on my 99 2.3 and found the short hose that’s connected to the valve stem and routes out the tire cover had rusted and fused to the stem. Tire was fine but I couldn’t get that short piece off. I ended up cutting the valve stem off and putting in a new one.
Took my wife to lunch today. She has been a good sport about me $pending time on this car. She wants to ride along to Louisville with me in May. This means we will leave earlier and take out sweet time getting there, much more fun for me. I want to drive a little out of the way to Manhattan, KS because I lived there as a kid and have fond memories of that town.
First stop will be Russell's Travel Center at the Texas state line on I-40 - coolest truckstop in the country. They have a free auto museum with lots of Route 66 Americana.
IMG_4441.jpgIMG_4439.jpgIMG_4435.jpgIMG_4433.jpgIMG_4432.jpg
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
What is the longest drive you have been on? How did your back feel afterwards? Do the seat tilt mod- inexpensive and takes <20 minutes to install and your back will be much happier on long drives.
Kelvin
As beneficial as the Ireland s/f bushes are, they are not at all like the straightforward job of changing all the rubber in the front end. Make sure you read up on the latest tactics to getting the originals removed__putting the new urethane ones in is EASY__and decide if you've left yourself the time it takes.
As far as the trip itself goes, my wife and I used to make 1100-1200 miles (17-19 hrs, depending) in a day, particularly on the trip home (we were more leisurely on the trip DOWN to Florida from Ohio).
Now in all honesty, the last time we made a trip of any length in an M Rdstr was a decade ago, and Sue was startled when we stopped for our first gas refill, and I asked her if she wanted to drive for a while__I used to last much, much longer than that
The rest of your list and determination to do it yourself is commendable; good job!
Last edited by Randy Forbes; 02-28-2019 at 07:13 PM.
KBH - Thanks, I'll have a look at that.Do the seat tilt mod- inexpensive and takes <20 minutes to install and your back will be much happier on long drives.
Randy - What a nice compliment, Thank you.The rest of your list and determination to do it yourself is commendable; good job!
I was not able to get to the lift today because my wife needed some help for an event she is planning in October. When we got home from lunch, I started the tear down for the VANOS refit since the parts are supposed to arrive tomorrow. Using the instructions provided by Beisan Systems, I got as far as removing the VANOS and draining it. It is clear to me that the oil leak is predominately from an exhausted valve cover gasket. The VCG and spark plug gaskets were like hard candy instead of rubber.
IMG_4518.jpg
I was tempted to really open things up and replace some CCV lines - did replace the plenum return line at the top. I also considered pulling the oil filter housing to replace the gasket at the block - I have these parts on hand but do not want to get distracted and make mistakes; will reconsider this over coffee in the morning. I have a new VANOS oil line that I would like to install while I'm on this project.
I will repair some wire jacketing that has either melted or been chemically compromised. I have some experience building engine harnesses on older German cars; really like this stuff from Wirecare.com:
https://www.wirecare.com/category/br...-awg-5-ft-cuts
I have rolls of it in various sizes. Bosch uses a product like this on our O2 sensor leads - fantastic thermal and chemical protection properties, far superior to corrugated poly split tube.
IMG_4521.jpgIMG_4520.jpg
This is what I've used Wirecare products on in the past . . .
39 Harness Build Complete.jpg
I broke the aluminium harness holder at the aft right corner of the valve cover. I also discovered the aft clip for the exhaust side O2 sensor harness missing - will source online or at UP&P here in ABQ. The only other casualty was a rubber vacuum connector at the forward end of the hard line for the secondary air valve. I have lots of vacuum line on hand.
IMG_4519.jpg
Thanks for the guidance gents
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
Since you have it open, can you check the condition of the secondary chain tensioner, chain and the guide? If they are weak / bad, now it is a good time to replace it. It will make the engine silent.
OFHG is also one thing you do while you are at it.
The vacuum lines, check those also.
saneesh8,
I'm guessing the secondary chain tensioner is part #2 in the attached diagram. If so, it still pushes the chain upward into tension with good force. I can barely move it when I mash down on it. I do not see grooves in the guide (tough to tell with the chain laying over it). Chain and sprockets look fine. The odometer is at 105500. Is it time for new chains?
I don't know what OFHG means (overhead flipping helical gear - part #11 ???), I can disassemble and have a look. What am I looking for when I inspect the OFHG.
Valve Train, Timing Chain, Upper Intake.pdf
Thanks for the tips - I've been reading your differential work with interest.
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
OFHG = Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Thanks JRowe..
If the tensioner is providing good tension, then it is all good. Also no grooves in the guide visually. No need to change it. No slack in chain right? If so nothing to do here.
Chains, as far as i know / read, usually don't need replacement. Some others with engine rebuild experience can comment on this.
Differential work is going slow. Will update the thread once i replace the carrier bearings and races.
An article i found about secondary chain tensioner -> https://blog.fcpeuro.com/e36-bmw-m3-...er-replacement
Last edited by saneesh8; 03-01-2019 at 02:09 PM.
Thank you JRoweOFHG = Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Saneesh - that story makes me want to replace tensioner and guide as preventative maintenance but I think I'm going to roll the bones and skip it for now.An article i found about secondary chain tensioner -> https://blog.fcpeuro.com/e36-bmw-m3-...er-replacement
IMG_4522.jpg
I got my VANOS disassembled this morning, ready for the Beisan kits. I decided to tackle the OFHG since I had time before the mailman delivers. By far the hardest part of this job was cleaning the mess. The old gasket was compressed and hardened - no wonder it leaked. I had a VANOS oil line on hand so I installed that too using new compression seals. I was able to install a lower CCV vent hose, the one that plugs into the dipstick and the bottom of the pressure regulating valve. I found a cracked hose at the air pump valve that runs to the emissions control air pump. I had to pick some parts up at Sandia BMW so I ordered a new one (11 72 1 437 884).
IMG_4527.jpgIMG_4530.jpgIMG_4529.jpg
I struggled with the alignment of the alternator - tough to get the lower bolt started because the jaws were tight on the mount. It was a very productive day and I learned a lot working on this car. I hope to have it running again by the end of the weekend.
IMG_4531.jpg
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
Yes..the Alternator re installation is tricky. I remember it.
Once you are done with OFHG, clean the area also. It is tough to clean.
Coming up really nice. Check all hoses what ever you can in that area.
I refit the VANOS today with Beisan Systems Seal kit and Anti-Rattle kit. I'm sure many here have done this but I'm impressed with the instructions, support and results.
IMG_4532.jpg
IMG_4533.jpg
Next step is to get back to the lift and continue cleaning oil from the driveline. I will change the engine oil, transmission fluid and differential fluid. I'm going to visit the salvage yard to cut a harness branch from an E36 to experiment with. I want to figure out a good set to techniques to refit the most vulnerable harness segments at the front of the engine bay. After that, I'm going to take a break since I have to go back to work late next week. When I get back from my trip, I will resume:
Cooling system flush
Braking system flush
Front rotor and pad replacement
RSB replacement - will study newest tactics based on RF suggestion
I am motivated by this roadster.
I got a little distracted Friday by this one though
IMG_4504.jpg
Prolly going to drive it when I pick a part up on Tuesday. Don't ban me please.
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
Work continues on my Z3 . . . changed transmission fluid on the 7th, made a mess trying to use a cheap HF fluid transfer pump. I'll find a better one to use on the differential fluid change.
HF Gear Oil Pump.jpg
I drove the car a few miles afterwards, no leaks and no noticeable difference in shift feel yet (some here advise it takes time).
I'm on a trip right now where I like to read up on things, order parts and have it all waiting when I get home. I've decided to replace the wear items in the accessory drive. Belts were done once before, but the rest is 17 years old. FCPEuro sells a nice kit for this, so I bought that.
FCPEuro Belt Kit.jpg
I also decided to replace the water pump and PS pump pulleys with aluminum units from ECS. The ones I picked have more bling than I care for, but ECS had both pulleys, most have only the water pump pulley. I also bought the IE rear subframe bushings and read up on the process. I'll build up the tool when I get home unless someone here wants to offload one from their tool collection. (loan or sell)
ECS Tuning 84055.jpgECS Tuning 68006.jpgIE RSFB.jpg
I think the Z3 requires a little more care than other cars when it comes to jackstands. I am not happy with what I have been using - jackstands are not something a hobbyist should be unhappy with. I like ESCO 10499 Low Profile so I'm ordering 4 of those. I will also try a set of TMB Motorsports adapter pads on our slightly different jackpads. I saw a mini K-loader lift in Korea last week being used to work on a small TUG tractor; will make an effort to find out who makes that next time I visit.
I have 2 weeks off when I get home this weekend - will go back on the warpath getting this car ready for my trip in May.
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
Once the mechanicals are sorted, think about what's going in the trunk.
After a couple road trips with my wife, I can confirm not all suitcases fit. The trunk is wide, and deep enough front to back, but shallow from floor to lid. It can take a little tetris playing to get all of her stuff packed.
If you're going stag, no worries as there will be plenty of room.
I'm going to make a day trip to Louisville on a company airplane to carry luggage prior to our road trip. I will have a small canvas hand carry, and it will still be a struggle to jam her road trip gear in the trunk. I base this on 32 years of his / hers real estate ratio in our shared closet and master bathroom. The most important item to bring is a new Rand McNally road atlas for her to study as we drive - she loves doing that.
That being said, I'm still glad she wants to make the trip with me.
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
Wait, people actually check their cars, and bring tools along? THAT'S JINXING IT.
My last roadtrip was preceded by six days in Vegas, packed in three hours, and hit the road lol. It worked out.
If you're intersted
https://ivanfisher.kinja.com/inuvik-...hoe-1704258835
Thanks for the link. It brought back great memories of a similar trip two friends and I made on three Honda ST1100. We started and ended in New Jersey, so the trip was about a month long. We think we are the only ST1100 owners who have ridden those 700 pound street bikes to Inuvik and back. We only had one flat on the Dempster, which was easily fixed with a gummy worm kit and compressor we had brought along. The one thing we all shared by the end of the trip was leaky fork seals from all the dust on the dirt roads we had ridden (a few hundred miles more after we returned and continued our travels). I suspect when you work on your M that you still find fine gray dust in out of the way places!
What a great journey for your coupe, driving it on an adventure!
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
Installed the belt kit and new pulleys this morning . . .
Belt Kit Install (2).jpg
Belt Kit Install (3).jpg
Belt Kit Install (5).jpg
Belt Kit Install (1).jpg
Still on the list:
Differential oil change
IE RSFB install (arriving Tuesday)
Front rotors, pads everywhere, brake fluid flush
Coolant flush
Brad Cushman
2002 Z3 3.0
1973 450 SL
1967 Camaro SS/RS
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