Help!!! engine screaming!

[nrp22101]

Just started up the car after valve cover job and the engine was screaming! Thought it was the belts at first so let it run for about 30 seconds until a ton of smoke was coming out the exhaust. The screaming was clearly not the belts and was coming from engine.
Almost as if there was no lubrication to the top end?
Please tell me I didnt F*** something up badly!
What's my next move here?
Please help!


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[BMSman]

Just started up the car after valve cover job and the engine was screaming! Thought it was the belts at first so let it run for about 30 seconds until a ton of smoke was coming out the exhaust. The screaming was clearly not the belts and was coming from engine.
Almost as if there was no lubrication to the top end?
Please tell me I didnt F*** something up badly!
What's my next move here?
Please help!


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I think you need to add more details about what you did exactly... valve stem seals? Banjo bolts? Serviced fuel injectors?

[olinjohnston]

Sounds like something got in there that shouldn't have. Probably will have to open it up again and look inside.

[nrp22101]

I think you need to add more details about what you did exactly... valve stem seals? Banjo bolts? Serviced fuel injectors?

Thanks BMSman.
New injectors
Removed and cleaned oil sprayer
Locktyte Banjo bolts
New gaskets everywhere
Timing
All new hoses
New plug wires

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[8eights]

If your Sure you didn't leave anything in there, Could be dry up top banjo bolts are in the oil flow direction, Correct? Pic below! if these all check out Pull a important relay so it cranks and doesn't start to get some oil up top first, How is the oil level?

[nrp22101]

If your Sure you didn't leave anything in there, Could be dry up top banjo bolts are in the oil flow direction, Correct? Pic below! if these all check out Pull a important relay so it cranks and doesn't start to get some oil up top first, How is the oil level?

Thanks 8eights. Pretty sure nothing was left inside. I did not oversee the Banjo bolt reinstall so not sure about direction, will check that first.
Also, what relay is best to pull?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[TxGR8White]

You have to be VERY careful when you use lock rite on the banjo bolts. If you heard some high pitched “screaming” from the engine, it’s very likely that there is oil starvation at the camshafts. These shafts are held down in aluminum block and need good lubrication, otherwise failure is imminent (usually within minutes)

[8eights]

Tx is Right, I would check that there's no blockage as wel firstl, Lots of work but well worth it.

[Timm]

Work on the top end shouldn't cause smoke from the exhausts - but screaming and smoke makes me suspect the crankcase ventilation system - are you sure you replaced the vacuum pipes correctly? Have a listen close to the valves - is the noise coming from there?

[nrp22101]

Just finished pulling valve covers.
Here are pics....I'm not seeing anything. Anyone else notice something that is off?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[nrp22101]

Work on the top end shouldn't cause smoke from the exhausts - but screaming and smoke makes me suspect the crankcase ventilation system - are you sure you replaced the vacuum pipes correctly? Have a listen close to the valves - is the noise coming from there?

Noise was definitely coming from the valves!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[nrp22101]

You have to be VERY careful when you use lock rite on the banjo bolts. If you heard some high pitched “screaming” from the engine, it’s very likely that there is oil starvation at the camshafts. These shafts are held down in aluminum block and need good lubrication, otherwise failure is imminent (usually within minutes)

That's what it sounded like to me. It was a painful sound. When you say "failure" I'm guessing you mean of a critical nature...God I hope not.
I only ran it for less that 20-30 seconds before shutting her down.
What would failure look like?
Also, anyone know what relays to pull to get the oil moving through the sprayer without turning the car over?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[M6csi]

Yeah, the valve train components look suspiciously dry. Seems like there is no fresh/wet oil present.

[BMSman]

When I had my fuel injectors cleaned they came back soaked in light oil. After fitting them the car smoked a lot for quite a few miles then slowly burned off. I remember thinking to myself what the heck happened... but this is all it was. Lack of oil to the valve train is not likely to cause the exhaust to smoke.

I don't see anything out of place in the pics but I'd remove the banjo bolts and look down the hole at the cam shaft or remove the cam shaft retaining caps for inspection if you are certain the noise came form valve train.

Pull the plugs and turn the engine over by hand listening for any unusual interference/resistance. You could also crank the starter (plugs and fuel pump relays removed) while an assistant inspects the motor and verifies spray bars are passing oil. Verify the oil pressure light goes out after a few seconds of cranking.

I'm curious... what are those white gaskets on your intakes?

Did you use blue loctite? It may just be the lighting but looks like I see traces of it on your camshaft (2nd to last pic).

Make certain you tightened the bolts on each cam chain sprocket. If one backed out it will rub against the engine casing...

[nrp22101]

When I had my fuel injectors cleaned they came back soaked in light oil. After fitting them the car smoked a lot for quite a few miles then slowly burned off. I remember thinking to myself what the heck happened... but this is all it was.

I don't see anything out of place in the pics but I'd remove the banjo bolts and look down the hole at the cam shaft or remove the cam shaft retaining caps for inspection if you are certain the noise came form valve train.

Pull the plugs and turn the engine over by hand listening for any unusual interference/resistance. You could also crank the starter (plugs and fuel pump replays removed) while an assistant inspects the motor and verifies spray bars are passing oil.

Thanks, I'll get on this. I wouldnt be so concerned if it was just the smoke but the high pitch scream was unsettling to say the least!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[nrp22101]

When I had my fuel injectors cleaned they came back soaked in light oil. After fitting them the car smoked a lot for quite a few miles then slowly burned off. I remember thinking to myself what the heck happened... but this is all it was. Lack of oil to the valve train is not likely to cause the exhaust to smoke.

I don't see anything out of place in the pics but I'd remove the banjo bolts and look down the hole at the cam shaft or remove the cam shaft retaining caps for inspection if you are certain the noise came form valve train.

Pull the plugs and turn the engine over by hand listening for any unusual interference/resistance. You could also crank the starter (plugs and fuel pump relays removed) while an assistant inspects the motor and verifies spray bars are passing oil. Verify the oil pressure light goes out after a few seconds of cranking.

I'm curious... what are those white gaskets on your intakes?

Did you use blue loctite? It may just be the lighting but looks like I see traces of it on your camshaft (2nd to last pic).

Make certain you tightened the bolts on each cam chain sprocket. If one backed out it will rub against the engine casing...

I hand cranked the engine and heard nothing unusual. Pulled the spark and fuel relays and cranked the engine but didnt see any oil coming out of the sprayer. At least no screaming noise this time! Took the oil bar off and inspected (already cleaned them earlier so not sure what I was expecting to find) bar was not plugged .
I'm not sure of the orientation of the banjo bolts tho? There are 3 holes but no marker to identify their location?
How do I know they are properly aligned?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[8eights]

I used a ruler and a sharpie to mark the center direction of the holes. If it were me being so paranoid, I would drain 2 quarts of oil and replace it in the oil tube spayer and on top of the valves and cams to sort of prime things up. Also looks to dry inside for a engine that ran this morning.

[nrp22101]

I used a ruler and a sharpie to mark the center direction of the holes. If it were me being so paranoid, I would drain 2 quarts of oil and replace it in the oil tube spayer and on top of the valves and cams to sort of prime things up.

Thanks. And so I can better orient the holes, from which end of the cam shaft does the oil come from?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[BMSman]

I hand cranked the engine and heard nothing unusual. Pulled the spark and fuel relays and cranked the engine but didnt see any oil coming out of the sprayer. At least no screaming noise this time! Took the oil bar off and inspected (already cleaned them earlier so not sure what I was expecting to find) bar was not plugged .
I'm not sure of the orientation of the banjo bolts tho? There are 3 holes but no marker to identify their location?
How do I know they are properly aligned?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You'll need to crank it for a minute or so. Did the oil pressure light go out? Until it does you are not going to see anything.

There is no orientation for the banjo bolts.

[nrp22101]

You'll need to crank it for a minute or so. Did the oil pressure light go out? Until it does you are not going to see anything.

There is no orientation for the banjo bolts.

I removed the bar on cyl 1-6 but left it on 7-12. I cranked it for a bit longer and the oil started to trickle out. Wasn't much but looked commensurate to the size of the oil bar holes. On cylinders 1-7 the oil gushed out of the where the second banjo bolt opening. Does this all sound kosher?
I'm trying to post an video but wont let me! "Mime type"?


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[BMSman]

Yes this all sounds normal. I suspect your problem lies elsewhere.

[M6csi]

Did you drain the power steering system (Pentosin hydraulic fluid) completely through the power steering pump? When I completely emptied the Pentosin last summer and refilled system, upon initial startup, it let out a loud, high pitched metallic sounding racket in the engine compartment. Scared the heck out of me, though I screwed things up big time. Probably, the sound came from the newly emptied steering pump. Bled the system a few times and the sound went away and things went back to normal.

[NevadaMike]

At the risk of being pedantic I agree that the simplest things should be checked first. The Pentoisin circuit certainly is a candidate. There is a tiny vent slot in the brass bushing in the cover - far too small, especially at startup. Put a split lock washer on the shaft before installing the cover. It will still seal, and prevents the pump from drawing a vacuum in the reservoir keeping the fluid from flowing to the pump.

The A/C compressor comes on briefly at startup. Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned.

Lessons I've learned in 25 years of ownership and 160K miles.

[nrp22101]

At the risk of being pedantic I agree that the simplest things should be checked first. The Pentoisin circuit certainly is a candidate. There is a tiny vent slot in the brass bushing in the cover - far too small, especially at startup. Put a split lock washer on the shaft before installing the cover. It will still seal, and prevents the pump from drawing a vacuum in the reservoir keeping the fluid from flowing to the pump.

The A/C compressor comes on briefly at startup. Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned.

Lessons I've learned in 25 years of ownership and 160K miles.

I hear ya Mike. I am trying to go through every detail starting with the obvious, leaving no stone unturned.
I can confirm the belts are properly tensioned and will check all possible vacuum leaks starting with the pentosin system.
I do have a question regarding the three temperature sensors at the back of the engine cooling pipes which I replaced during the top end refresh. RealOem shows only two of the three sensors use washers. Seems odd not all 3 would require them? Is this correct?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[Belgiumbarry]

there are indeed 3 washers , i have that tube on my spare engine , see pic .
What is in the list ,i suppose , is you need 2 x #9 and 1 x #6 .
7 and 8 are 14mm , 5 is 12 mm.

SAM_2674.jpg