Rotor vibration after installing new rotors

[Oday0111]

So my current career is changing oil at a car shop.

Today, on a lift, after work I installed new brake pads, rotors, sway bar links, hub & bearing, and a idler arm...

In hopes to get my car susspesion back up to speed, while changing the passenger front rotor I noticed that the retaining screw was gone.

The 3 other corners of the car had retaining screws besides this one.

I had no extra screws so I just lined up the hub and rotor and went on with it.

After the job was complete, I left the shop after 3 hours, and the brakes felt great!
No more terrible sounds! Better grip!

I still felt that the job needed to be completed 100% so I decided to start the bedding process.
As I was doing the process after the third 60mph to 20mph the car started to shake hard!

I thought this was maybe the rotor breaking in... So I did the 60 to 20 3 more times, each time the car shaking both more and less...

I thought to myself that something was of so I went on a cool down drive. I noticed that the passenger front rotor was beginning to sound like my old rotor!!!!
The only rotor without the retaining screw is now bringing back nightmares of my old brakes.

Is this issue causes really by the retaining screw?

I don't suspect it to be anything else besides the rotor. Is the sound of the brake pads rubbing up against the rotor in certain spots.

Note that I only hear the rubbing of the brake pads when going slow. Say 25?

The bad vibrations only occur at 45 and up while braking...
Sometimes driving at 60mph will bring along a slight wobble... Along with the car feeling like it's fighting you in the steering wheel towards that rotor... If you know what I mean...

Thanks for the responses. I hope I didn't worp my rotor due to it not setting right even tho it shouldn't move when the wheel is on.... Idek anymore



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[Oday0111]

So my current career is changing oil at a car shop.

Today, on a lift, after work I installed new brake pads, rotors, sway bar links, hub & bearing, and a idler arm...

In hopes to get my car susspesion back up to speed, while changing the passenger front rotor I noticed that the retaining screw was gone.

The 3 other corners of the car had retaining screws besides this one.

I had no extra screws so I just lined up the hub and rotor and went on with it.

After the job was complete, I left the shop after 3 hours, and the brakes felt great!
No more terrible sounds! Better grip!

I still felt that the job needed to be completed 100% so I decided to start the bedding process.
As I was doing the process after the third 60mph to 20mph the car started to shake hard!

I thought this was maybe the rotor breaking in... So I did the 60 to 20 3 more times, each time the car shaking both more and less...

I thought to myself that something was of so I went on a cool down drive. I noticed that the passenger front rotor was beginning to sound like my old rotor!!!!
The only rotor without the retaining screw is now bringing back nightmares of my old brakes.

Is this issue causes really by the retaining screw?

I don't suspect it to be anything else besides the rotor. Is the sound of the brake pads rubbing up against the rotor in certain spots.

Note that I only hear the rubbing of the brake pads when going slow. Say 25?

The bad vibrations only occur at 45 and up while braking...
Sometimes driving at 60mph will bring along a slight wobble... Along with the car feeling like it's fighting you in the steering wheel towards that rotor... If you know what I mean...

Thanks for the responses. I hope I didn't worp my rotor due to it not setting right even tho it shouldn't move when the wheel is on.... Idek anymore



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Some pics of the parts new and old... And my car

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[Chedley]

Yes, the front rotor needs a retaining screw. Install it asap.
The vibrations at 45mph could be caused by bad bushings/ ball joints of the lower control arm. Replace your front lower control arms.

[Oday0111]

Yes, the front rotor needs a retaining screw. Install it asap.
The vibrations at 45mph could be caused by bad bushings/ ball joints of the lower control arm. Replace your front lower control arms.

See I thought it needed it to.... But all the mechanics there. (who work on domestic/America cars and call bmw "Big money wasted") said it would be fine since the tire lugs will hold it down. I didn't like that idea at all but I had no other choice. So today here in a moment, I'll see if I can't use a normal in store philips head reataing screw from advance auto parts or something. Will those screws work? Or do I have to get the ones made for the car off tuner motorsport. Thanks!

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[crazy4trains]

What was the wear like on the pads that you removed. Were any of them significantly thinner than the others. You may have a caliper that is not releasing when you let off the brakes. Also, did you lube all the areas where the pads slide (pad ears etc.)?

It makes sense that you should have the retaining screw, but it doesn't sound right to me that it would cause that much of a problem. The torque from the lug bolts should hold the rotor but maybe not. I've been wrong before and I'll be wrong again. Just ask my wife.

[bossman1]

Actually you do not need the retaining screw. It is there only to hold the rotor in place when the caliper bracket is removed. The lugs are actually holding everything together.

You might want to check if you have a sticky caliper . Maybe the caliper is not disengaging the pads enough once you let off the brakes

[Oday0111]

What was the wear like on the pads that you removed. Were any of them significantly thinner than the others. You may have a caliper that is not releasing when you let off the brakes. Also, did you lube all the areas where the pads slide (pad ears etc.)?

It makes sense that you should have the retaining screw, but it doesn't sound right to me that it would cause that much of a problem. The torque from the lug bolts should hold the rotor but maybe not. I've been wrong before and I'll be wrong again. Just ask my wife.

The passanger front pads were damn near gone like down to metal. I did notice on both pads that if you look at it sideways you can see that there's a slight incline on each pad very slight, from one side to the other.... Don't know if my eyes are playing tricks on me and that's false but that's what it looks to be. The rotor honestly wasn't in to much bad shape. All components got lubed plus anti seze all that stuff.... But that idea about the caliper is a good idea that I might have to look into... Damn

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[JimLev]

^__like bossman said the only thing that screw does is hold the rotor in place when the caliper isn't installed.
Nice to have it on but it isn't necessary so unless you find something else loose that screw isn't going to magically fix your problem.
Some cars don't come with rotor hold down screws.
Do you have access to a runout gauge to check the rotor?

[Oday0111]

Actually you do not need the retaining screw. It is there only to hold the rotor in place when the caliper bracket is removed. The lugs are actually holding everything together.

You might want to check if you have a sticky caliper . Maybe the caliper is not disengaging the pads enough once you let off the brakes

How should I go about that? How do I see if it's sticking and is it repairable or must be replaced

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[Oday0111]

^__like bossman said the only thing that screw does is hold the rotor in place when the caliper isn't installed.
Nice to have it on but it isn't necessary so unless you find something else loose that screw isn't going to magically fix your problem.
Some cars don't come with rotor hold down screws.
Do you have access to a runout gauge to check the rotor?

Probably... We have every tool in this shop damn near.... Even offset wrenches for wheel bearing and hub job... I'll have to wait till later in the day to check because I'm at work doing oil changes and stuff. But that's probably the issue is my rotor. This cars PO cheaped out on alot if things... Sad but the rear tires arnt even the same brand and one is mounted in wrong direction I'll look more into that caliper. It was the hardest out of the 4 to depress


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[JimLev]

How should I go about that? How do I see if it's sticking and is it repairable or must be replaced

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Jack up that wheel and give it a good spin, it should continue to rotate a few revolutions without stopping.
Step on the brake pedal then repeat.

Calipers can be rebuilt however if you've never done it its more cost effective to buy a rebuilt one.
If the caliper piston boot is torn and the sides of the piston are rusted just get a rebuilt unit.

To accurately check the runout you'll need at least 2 bolts to hold the rotor evenly to the hub.

[Sleepyhead97]

Yes, the front rotor needs a retaining screw. Install it asap.
The vibrations at 45mph could be caused by bad bushings/ ball joints of the lower control arm. Replace your front lower control arms.

Calling attention to this. Please check your ball joints and bushings. PO was cheap. Bet these were not changed

[geargrinder]

+3. That screw is purely a convenience to keep the rotor from flopping a little loose until it jams on the pad/calipers when youre changing tires. .

A HW store screw prob won't have right head (those have that big ass funny head on them). I must have tons of extras someplace. Cuz I don't buy ElCheapocrap rotors, so mine generally always come with new screws. I could send you one if I can figure out where that pile of screws is.

Agree you need to put the car on the lift.

How are your thrust-arm-bushings? Vibe at highway speed braking is often that on an E39. That might not be exclusive from a bad caliper by the way. You could easily have a sticking caliper + crapped out thrust arm bushings.

[JimLev]

That bolt is called a shoulder bolt.

[ross1]

Sounds to me like you overheated the brakes during your "bedding in".
There is no need for this, just drive easy for the first few miles, in other words, don't over heat the brakes.
Repeated hard stops are no good for any brakes, new or old.

"I'll look more into that caliper. It was the hardest out of the 4 to depress"
^^ smoking gun


"Today, on a lift, after work I installed new brake pads, rotors, sway bar links, hub & bearing, and a idler arm..."

Tell me more about the idler arm replacement on your 528I please.

[Oday0111]

Sounds to me like you overheated the brakes during your "bedding in".
There is no need for this, just drive easy for the first few miles, in other words, don't over heat the brakes.
Repeated hard stops are no good for any brakes, new or old.

"Today, on a lift, after work I installed new brake pads, rotors, sway bar links, hub & bearing, and a idler arm..."

Tell me more about the idler arm replacement on your 528I please.

It's a 540 sorry havnt updated my profile in a minute my old car was a silver 528i

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[geargrinder]

That bolt is called a shoulder bolt.

So its an over-the-shoulder-rotor-holder?

[Oday0111]

Jack up that wheel and give it a good spin, it should continue to rotate a few revolutions without stopping.
Step on the brake pedal then repeat.

Calipers can be rebuilt however if you've never done it its more cost effective to buy a rebuilt one.
If the caliper piston boot is torn and the sides of the piston are rusted just get a rebuilt unit.

To accurately check the runout you'll need at least 2 bolts to hold the rotor evenly to the hub.

Thanks Jim will for sure give that a try here in a few. The calipers are 260,000 miles old so it's probably time for them all to go

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[Oday0111]

+3. That screw is purely a convenience to keep the rotor from flopping a little loose until it jams on the pad/calipers when youre changing tires. .

A HW store screw prob won't have right head (those have that big ass funny head on them). I must have tons of extras someplace. Cuz I don't buy ElCheapocrap rotors, so mine generally always come with new screws. I could send you one if I can figure out where that pile of screws is.

Agree you need to put the car on the lift.

How are your thrust-arm-bushings? Vibe at highway speed braking is often that on an E39. That might not be exclusive from a bad caliper by the way. You could easily have a sticking caliper + crapped out thrust arm bushings.

That would be awesome if you have extra screws!!! And my thrust arm bushings as well as lower arm/ball joint look great honestly. They were probably the most stiff and newest looking things on the car.

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[Frankie]

...The bad vibrations only occur at 45 and up while braking...

Your problem is the aftermarket rotors. Remove them and install OEM rotors.

It's painful to admit, but eventually you discover that factory parts really are better in most cases, especially brake parts. The same thing happened to me when I replaced rotors on my E38. Now, I use OEM brakes only.

[Oday0111]

Your problem is the aftermarket rotors. Remove them and install OEM rotors.

It's painful to admit, but eventually you discover that factory parts really are better in most cases, especially brake parts. The same thing happened to me when I replaced rotors on my E38. Now, I use OEM brakes only.

I bought cheap rotors and pads so that I could afford other things like hub and bearings,tires,yadayada and my old rotors and pads couldn't go another mile.. I plan on getting BBK this late spring early summer. It's only the front right... And it was doing it with the old set of rotors and pads... So sorry I don't think it's the parts/rotors themselves I think it's something els

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[Oday0111]

Your problem is the aftermarket rotors. Remove them and install OEM rotors.

It's painful to admit, but eventually you discover that factory parts really are better in most cases, especially brake parts. The same thing happened to me when I replaced rotors on my E38. Now, I use OEM brakes only.

And when I mean vibration I literally mean when you put some pressure on the pedal at 60 mph the vehicle feels like the incredble hulk is grabbing my car by the passenger wheel and shaking it side to side like nuts until I released the brake pedal then its stable.

There's a womp womp womp noice at low speeds SOMETIMES. other times it's silent and the brakes all feel like there supposed to. Kinda like if the rotor is in a potato chip shape and the pads only hit the rotor at certain points in the rotor. This is only on the passenger side front only. The car did this but not as bad with the old pads and rotors. It would shake at 60 sometimes with the old rotors. It all depended on speed timing and angle. Now with new rotors and pads it's always at 60mph. It still makes the same womp womp noise the old pads and rotor did at low speeds.

I might post a super detailed video tonight of me driving it, it on a lift, and all the good stuff.

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[E39 Newbie]

And when I mean vibration I literally mean when you put some pressure on the pedal at 60 mph the vehicle feels like the incredble hulk is grabbing my car by the passenger wheel and shaking it side to side like nuts until I released the brake pedal then its stable.

There's a womp womp womp noice at low speeds SOMETIMES. other times it's silent and the brakes all feel like there supposed to. Kinda like if the rotor is in a potato chip shape and the pads only hit the rotor at certain points in the rotor. This is only on the passenger side front only. The car did this but not as bad with the old pads and rotors. It would shake at 60 sometimes with the old rotors. It all depended on speed timing and angle. Now with new rotors and pads it's always at 60mph. It still makes the same womp womp noise the old pads and rotor did at low speeds.

I might post a super detailed video tonight of me driving it, it on a lift, and all the good stuff.

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Lots of good advice here.

I, too, think you have a bum rotor. Put the car on the lift. All wheels should rotate fairly freely, with a little bit of noise from disc pad drag. If, as I suspect, the FRH caliper is bad, that wheel will be hard to turn. The fact that you had trouble compressing the piston was a bad sign. The rotor is probably shot at this point, and you may need new pads.

The screw only serves to assist with hole alignment because these European ninnies insist on using bolts instead of studs. That's one thing about the Euro-mobiles I just don't get.

[WBAD530i]

It's definitely your caliper. I am having the same problem with my drivers front caliper. I stripped it all down to lube everything up and I broke the old brake pad with my C clamp trying to compress it. If its hard to compress at all its not going to go back in when you let off the brakes. You can crack the bleeder on that one and try to depress it then. If that doesn't work you may have trash in your brake line and you'll need to disconnect it from the the caliper to relieve the pressure. If it STILL doesn't let you compress the caliper then its likely just corroded on the inside and needs replacing/rebuild.

Either way it may still be time to flush the brake fluid entirely, but you'll need to have the appropriate software to engage the ABS pump to allow fluid to pass through those valves as well. Replace the brake lines at each caliper and the ABS pump brake lines at this time as well.

Symptoms are audible scraping noises, shaking in steering wheel, and its more pronounced after braking and taking off again.

[Oday0111]

Lots of good advice here.

I, too, think you have a bum rotor. Put the car on the lift. All wheels should rotate fairly freely, with a little bit of noise from disc pad drag. If, as I suspect, the FRH caliper is bad, that wheel will be hard to turn. The fact that you had trouble compressing the piston was a bad sign. The rotor is probably shot at this point, and you may need new pads.

The screw only serves to assist with hole alignment because these European ninnies insist on using bolts instead of studs. That's one thing about the Euro-mobiles I just don't get.

Good advice will definitely try. Thanks for the response. I'm really starting to believe it is brake caliper and fluid related

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