Yes I’m getting a raw gas smell out the pipes, I don’t think the tester was reading properly I tested again with a brand new tester today and it went down after about 20 minutes slowly but enough over night I’m guessing to do this borewash issue . New update car is driving great now ! I bought a new maf sensor and boot put that in and popped a code for the idle control sensor that it was stuck . I took it off hit it with brake cleaner and got it freed up reinstalled it and no codes no engine light and car idles amazing no issues with the ac on nothing !! I’m very happy can’t wait till tomorrow morning to see if this borewash happens again now that I hit the road a bit with the new gas and sensors . I will update you tomorrow thanks allot for the info it has been a blessing !!
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Ok new update car started great this morning!!! Very happy I drove all night got on 95 and ran the cobwebs out of it ! It has a little lag in power on the gas pedal at first but picks it self up after and is gone in the wind ! She runnnssssss !! Haha I’m happy as a pig in Sh!t .
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Just to let you know the spec on fuel pressure drop is 7PSI or less in 20 min.
It leaks back thru the regulator to the tank.
You might have just had some gummy stuck injectors that were leaking an assload of gas over night. They might have cleaned up just from driving, since modern gas tends to have 'cleaners' in it already. I'd prob run extra Techron for a few tanks of gas but fingers crossed it keeps running well.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Having tried an assortment of different FI cleaners with the aforementioned E28, I found plain Techron, not cleaner with Techron, was the only one that did any good at all. I forget what all I tried, but they included one from Redline, whose products I generally think well of. Techron's a little on the pricey side, but IMO it's the only one that works at all.
98 328is
02 525ita
80 528i
81 528ia
and decades of owning and driving BMWs
Yup fingers crossed , I get a slight lag in throttle with the ac on sorta feels like no power till like 2500 rpm gotta step on the gas a little to get it past that and then runs fine . Not horrible to whereyou can’t drive but enough to notice power loss and lag . Might just be the intake manifold Needs a good cleaning
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Yeah I think a number of places have tested a ton of those additives and found only a very few - Techron being the main one - that did anything. Yeah I forgot they have those confusing variations... IIRC the "cleaner with Techron" is cheaper and probably purely exists because some people choked on the price of 'real' Techron. The other one is probably same exact stuff just diluted!
MMMMmmm I doubt that the intake manifolds cleanliness has anything to do with anything. On WOT stomps the AC clutch will cut back for a second so you probably are purely just feeling that. With a car like this just keep driving it for a while and see where things lie. A lot of symptoms might be 'temporary' until gum and cobwebs (figurative cobwebs) get cleaned out.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
BG44K is better than Techron, costs even more and needs to be pumped into the fuel rail at the test port, not dumped into the tank. I bought a case of it years ago, all gone now.
Been using Techron concentrate since then. Autozone has Techron on sale a few time a year.
I've heard that stuff was good too and I know that there's pro gear to pump stuff into the rail directly, but how'd you do that Jim? Outboard fuel pump? Ultimately the best thing of course is to pull the injectors and clean 'em, and an ultrasonic cleaning is DIY'able and works pretty good, but its a lot harder to do the pressure-cleaning side of it that the cleaner shops do.
I do have a spare fuel rail, I could probably rig up a jig, would have to figure something out for the injector drivers... Either some setup with an ECU that allows injector triggering, or setup some kind of micro/arduino/Rpi/etc. setup + a bank of motor/solenoid drivers...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
You seem to be right ! It seems to be I just need to drive it more it’s getting better and better as I put more miles on it , I’m at 45 miles of driving now and she’s doing great, no more cold start issues at all . Hopefully that lag in power goes away it seems to not be as much of a issue in sport shift if that helps any ,it acts as is I’m trying to floor it in last gear if I take off fast in normal drive from a stop light , but if I manually shift to first or don’t slow down all the way it runs fine .
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Yes, I had the injectors out of the rail, connected to an external fuel pump, and used a 555 timer circuit to pulse them on/off. They were spraying into a bottle that the pump would suck from so I didn't need to watch it.
Then sprayed each one for 10 sec into a graduated cylinder to verify they were spraying the same.
I've read some guys have used the small ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight.
Thanks all, for the clarification on flooding in a FI engine!
Trits... Maybe you should check out your AC compressor/pulley? If that's hanging up, maybe that's causing the lag issue you're having due to drag? On my 528 I can remove the AC belt as it's a separate belt than the main belt. I assume it's the same for yours? It's pretty quick and easy to do, as well. With the belt removed, you can also drive around - see if the issue goes away or stays.
Cool. Might have to make a rig some day.
Some fancy pro setups I've seen combo the 2 so the injectors are sitting in ultrasonic WHILE the cleaner blasted through them. Seems a lot of work.
Yeah I had a tiny HFT ultrasonic. It was OK but crapped out eventually. My father handmedowned a basically brand big ol' industrial / lab grade stainless unit tho' with fluid heating and everything and its phenomenal.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
It seems to do it without the ac on too just not as much to notice, I work on allot of American cars and trucks so I know what to hear and look for but I don’t believe it’s the Ac . I think it’s a sensor or something, I’m gunna keep driving and check the codes this week see if anything pops up , as of now she’s running good gets me to work and back .
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Re-reading this, I think this might actually be "operating as designed".
A 528 slushbox in D ain't exactly a drag monster, esp with the AC on.
The trans in the car is 'intelligent' so it does adapt to how its being driven, generally these ZF boxes fall back to being sluggish unless you're constantly punching it or keep it in Sport. Sport is a lot different than D.
You could try changing trans fluid and see if that helps (any idea if that's ever been done?) and that's probably a good idea anyway but I'd strongly consider this just being how its supposed to be.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
My 525, current and past 528’s never slugged around in drive, but I do shove it into servotronic when I have to downshift and really punch it. In Sport more they are not so bad. All of my E39’s drive the same wether the ac is on or off. I’ve never thought that they loose power because the ac comes on, gas mileage either, has always stayed constant. Maybe that’s what’s wrong with my E39’s! The fact that they’re constantly running perfectly fine! Not a single issue, no extra lights on in the dash, what the hells going on??? Now I’m really worried....
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Great set up Jim on that injector cleaning!
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
Ok new update gentlemen, car was running great a little sluggish still hon the throttle response but I scanned the car again and read camshaft sensor , so I put a new one still came back sensor again, so I got another one and again the code came up another reason I was changing this the car would stall randomly when I sat in one spot idling . So now with the new one it doesn’t stall and way better response on the peddle but still showed code for cam sensor ,, I reset the codes took the battery off touched the cables together everything and still pops a camshaft sensor code on intake side , wires are all ok no corrosion or frayed wires no oil on connectors nothing I’m stuck here fellas
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Stall *** I meant to say randomly stall out
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It could be a wire problem down in the harness. Now that these cars are getting old thats increasingly being a thing that sometimes happens.
But there's another possible issue to check out: DME connector contamination.
Open your e-box and take the connectors off the DME (gently, if you do it right all the 'lever' ones just fall right pit as soon as you lift the lever and lock it into "full open" position... the big-power end-ones require a good pull but they aren't as fragile as the lever guys). Look for coolant or oil contamination on the connectors or pooled in the DME sockets. Including look for signs of dried up former contamination - this will be brown (oil) or green-blue (coolant) residue in the socket usually. If you catch it in time you can fix the underlying problem and clean the DME and be OK but if it goes too far the DME can burn up parts and pins and need to be either fixed or replaced.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
MAP sensor going bad? And why do you think that?
Do you mean something else? These cars don’t have MAP sensor.
They have a MAF. They have a “Map thermostat”. No manifold air pressure sensor tho.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Only codes I’m stuck with now are can shaft pos sensor bank a , car runs sluggish and has a slight ticking now . I put a new camshaft sensor and same issue, put two new vanos Valves and oil changed 5w30 full synthetic idk ??
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