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Thread: I’m Back in an E39

  1. #1
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    I’m Back in an E39

    Hi Guys,

    I am so excited to be writing this post. I recently got back into an E39 to be exact a 1999 540i 6/spd sport pkg in Biarritz Blue with a grey interior with 169k. I had a ‘98 528i back in college and absolutely fell in love with the car. Very sad when I sold it, but I said I would get back into another and the day is finally here.

    She is definitely rough and needs more than some TLC, but that’s ok because I was looking for a project car and am mechanically inclined.

    To start I am going through the entire motor, main reason was timing chain guides. When I first picked it up she ran horribly I got a P0011 code which said something about advance timing on Bank 1 if memory serves. Upon further review of the lower oil pan sure enough chunks of timing chain guide were present.
    I want to state that I follow the “since I’m there” philosophy and want to go through the whole motor. From my research the m62tu is notorious for leaks and this is no different.
    It’s sad but this car looks so neglected and I want to bring it back to its former glory. So to start I am starting to collect parts for timing chain guides, timing chains, oil pump chain, oil pan gaskets (upper and lower) valve cover gaskets, valley pan etc. Basically I am tearing it down to the heads and block.

    i want to be smart about this, take my time and do it right. At the same time I want to be efficient with my time and money so I want to get advise if I should go as far as to doing head gaskets as well. I have seen videos and read threads about it and half the job I will already do from the timing chain job.
    My question is, is a head gasket job straight forward like removing the head swapping gaskets and tightening it down? I do know the proper procedure, and don’t mean to simplify but I have also read threads of taking the head to a machinist to get it perfectly straight. Which I did not want to do or expect to do. I did not see signs of a blown head gasket but then again I did not drive the car and did not run it for too long due to the timing chain guide failure.

    i would like to see what you guys think and help make a decision on whether or not I should do the head gaskets or not.

  2. #2
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Welcome back.
    Before you pull the heads look into the intake ports to see if they are full of carbon, if so you may want to pull them to clean them out and also do a valve job.
    The head bolts are one use so they are going to cost you a few bucks to replace all of them.
    540's aren't know to blow head gaskets.
    Last edited by JimLev; 02-20-2019 at 09:10 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thank You for the quick response. I am glad to hear about the hg’s.
    I didn’t think about the valves. I will hopefully pull the intake this weekend and check out the ports .

    Thanks Again.

  4. #4
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    Hey Guys, looking for some additional advice along with an update...

    Having a lot of fun with this project so far. Just taking my time to get things done right. I am almost done with the timing job but have a couple of concerns. This past weekend I started the process of removing Valve Covers and front timing covers. I followed the GAS M62TU tutorial and am at the point of removing the old guides replacing gaskets and installing new ones.

    Concern #1 - The right side guide (beneath Bank 2) is attached with one bolt to the block and another to the oil pipe. There are also two additional attachment points below with that should be connected with what looks to be a retaining clip. I bought the Timing Refresh Kit from ECS they had the picture of it but ofcourse now is gone.... I also went to the dealer and they do not have a part # for it. So I wanted to see what you guys were using to secure the bottom half of that guide rail on the car. Here is the pic of what I am talking about, its the bottom 2 holes that need to be secured to the engine block.



    Concern # 2 - Upon removal of the lower timing cover I found this



    As you can see the plastic guide piece is completely gone. Which is why I am concerned about the valves. Timing was def off I got the P0011 code before I started the rebuild but nothing else.

    Is this an interference motor?

    Would bent valves throw different/additional codes?

    I looked in the ports when removing the intake Manifold and besides some carbon build up nothing seemed out of the ordinary. i am thinking of continuing on with the rebuild and checking timing by following the GAS procedure in cranking/turning the motor 2 full revolutions. If timing is correct would that tell me that my valves are ok?

    I feel that at this point I have no choice but to continue.

    Thank You in Advance for the guidance.

  5. #5
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    If you bent a valve you'd have lower compression on the cylinders with the bent valves... If your engine ran fine but just threw a P0011 code then you should be fine.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

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    No pics for #2.


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

  7. #7
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    Replace the Oil Separator Value (plastic funnel) when you do the timing chain guides. And the water pump. And many of us have switched to an 88C thermostat. I strongly recommend it.

    Don't see the pics. I have a wrecked '97 540 -- if I have the part you need I'll send it to you.

  8. #8
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    Can't see pictures

    Second the recommendation of the 88°C thermostat.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  9. #9
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    Sorry. Hope this works.

    Pic 1

    45372C14-4027-4B52-86EB-062B0784922A.jpeg

    Pic 2

    843E51E2-7CFB-4CE3-AC7D-624D03B67E8B.jpeg

    BTW car did not sound fine when I first started it. Sounded like a diesel but I don’t think it misfired.

  10. #10
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    Look forward to more pics. All the best with your wrenching and welcome back to E39 world.

  11. #11
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    Make sure you clean out the oil pump pick up screen thing really good. Those missing plastic guide pieces get sucked into there and block proper oil flow. Use a pick or piece of wire or something and get all the bits out.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Make sure you clean out the oil pump pick up screen thing really good. Those missing plastic guide pieces get sucked into there and block proper oil flow. Use a pick or piece of wire or something and get all the bits out.
    Better yet, dismantle the pump, clean it inside and inspect passages and all, then reassemble it using a good threadlocker as they sometimes loose up between halves causing oil pressure issues. Here's a couple of pictures of a pump that almost cost me an engine


    20140816_221750.jpg 20140816_221757.jpg 20140816_221823.jpg 20140816_221850.jpg 20140816_222018.jpg
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the tip, I did clean out the oil pump pick up screen already. Absolutely had bits of plastic and what seemed to be silicone bits in it.

    Wanted Ed to ask about the 88 C TStat, does that allow the engine to run cooler?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by E39Saloon View Post
    Thanks for the tip, I did clean out the oil pump pick up screen already. Absolutely had bits of plastic and what seemed to be silicone bits in it.

    Wanted Ed to ask about the 88 C TStat, does that allow the engine to run cooler?
    Runs between 89 and 94°C. You loose one or two MPG but the cooling system stands about half of the pressure, meaning a lot less stress and heat associated issues within the engine bay. Less toasted modules (DSC, etc) less stress on everything. The only reason to raise the temp over 105°C was mileage, emissions and the borderlining criminal "lifetime warranty" thing pushing +10 years of no servicing on tranny oil, eg.
    Also there's not that WOOOOOOSH sound from the viscofan and no more heatsoak.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  15. #15
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    Thank You for articulating. Understood, I will source the 88c TStat before I put everything back together. Still curious what you guys out there are using to secure this guide rail
    2DE12779-3C5E-476C-B74F-92C796813CB1.jpg

    When removed I undid one bolt to the block and the other to the oil pick up tube from the top. Nothing was secured from below where those 2 holes are.

  16. #16
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    The bottom just snaps onto a stud that should be there, no bolt.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  17. #17
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    ^ this

    - - - Updated - - -

    also, in for pictures. Don't worry, we've all seen an E39 in need of love, this is how I got my first one, all neglected and with a 90ish window tint vibe going on.

    20130925_091719.jpg
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  18. #18
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    Thanks for the tip on the studs. Yes I will start uploading some pics from the beginning.

  19. #19
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    Delivery Day! Once again this is a 1999 540i 6spd sport pkg Biarritz Blue on Grey Interior odometer reads 169K
    Sorry not sure why photos are coming in sideways.

    CE599D70-0AD6-45A6-A901-3D5848CB29FB.jpg

    F5F1236E-5D19-4285-A109-5591D94E2A35.jpg

  20. #20
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    Nice car! options?
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

  21. #21
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    Got some things yesterday. Thought I’d share some progress. Big Thanks to Philly98540 I took the advice and decided to remove the oil pump I thought I cleaned it using a pick tool, sure enough this is what I found...
    BF19EED3-7C1F-426B-B5E0-856536D6DE13.jpg

    There was more plastic chunks however they fell out before I could snap a pic. So oil pump cleaned, tightened to spec and adjusted chain tension with new chain.

    Next I tackled the Vanos seals, they are 3 rings that sit on the camshaft as well as the metal gaskets.
    A9AD2F5A-230D-4041-8E90-BD8EEBC6F21A.jpg

    Cleaned up up the gasket surfaces and started to install new guides and chains. Did the timing and used a multimeter. However, I could not get a 0.00 reading I kept getting 0.02 on bank 2 and 0.03 on Bank1 is that close enough?

    This is where I’m at now.

    01531111-47DC-4A6F-96E4-A3A4886DD3E9.jpg

  22. #22
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    Good progress! I think on most cases the ohm readouts can be ignored. Search for JimLev's videos on setting the timing. He nails it pretty good. Maybe someone has the link...
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  23. #23
    JimLev's Avatar
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    More that half of the engines I've timed the ohms reading didn't work, don't worry about it. As long as the inner section of the vanos is turned hard CCW your fine.
    Did you check the inside bore of the distribution units? That's the part the front of the cams stick into.
    Yours look like the old style, not Teflon coated. The 3 rings on the end of the came wear the aluminum away which allows the oil to leak past them effecting the advance/retard.
    The video is here.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-540tu-engine
    Last edited by JimLev; 05-05-2019 at 12:40 PM. Reason: added info

  24. #24
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    Awesome Link. Thank You and thanks for the advise, yes I turned both sides ccw until I had a hard stop I had to do it a few times to get all the oil out. It seemed that with the multimeter connected the harder I tourqued the wrench (came in the GAS master cam timing tool) the closer I got to 0.00
    Anyway, I am going to remove the pin and blocks and hand crank the motor to see where I am at.
    Thanks Again.

  25. #25
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    Hi Guys,

    Quick question.....while doing the Timing Check (hand cranking the motor 2 full revolutions) i noticed that the Vanos Sprocket on Bank 1 was slipping. Pic below:



    Not sure if I am explaining it correctly but as the motor reached TDC it would slip back and looking at the cam markings on the rear it showed it off by about 20 degrees. Following the GAS instructions i tightened the cam bolts (all 4) to about 45 lb ft so I cant imagine that the bolt was not tight enough. Is that normal?

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