Keyless Entry Installation

[Simonmiller]

Hey guys, I have just bought a aftermarket "Viper 3105v" alarm/keyless entry module for my 00' 2.3 Z3. My car never had a oem keyless entry but I know they were pre-wired with the 12-pin connectors. If I'm not wrong this is the Bmw's pin functions.
1) Hot at all times(Red/White)
2)Ignition (violet/white)
3)Ground (brown/orange)
4)Drivers door trigger (brown/gray)
5)Passengers door (brown/blue)
6)Not used
7)Siren output (black/blue)
8)Parking lights (Blue/green)
9)Door lock (White/green)
10)Door unlock (blue red)
11)Trunk trigger (brown/white)
12)Not used

I hooked up my viper unit corresponding to the factory wires using a female connector on the end of the viper unit. I have everything in and when I lock/unlock I just hear clicking. The key should come programmed ready so when I wire it up right it should automatically lock/unlock, not just hear clicking from the viper module correct? Has anyone wired these up and had it just click when hitting lock/unlock? The siren and everything works but how do I get it to lock/unlock?? Is this a problem in my wiring or? Any help would be great thanks.

[me77]

Does your driver side door switch work (interior light comes on and off correctly)? Car won't lock if it thinks the driver door is open.

When you hear clicking from the Viper box, that means it is activating and the relays inside are switching. This means that the key fobs are working.

The door lock and unlock wires receive a +12V signal, check that the Viper box does that with a voltmeter. I remember that finding a correct diagram for my '99 was difficult because none of the online diagrams matched, took me a long time to find one that matched the colors my car had. My car has white/green for locking and blue/red for unlocking on the 12-pin connector at the ZKE behind the glove box, like you posted.

That connector behind the glove box does not have a wire for the parking lights, it's for flashing the hazards when locking and unlocking. That wire receives a ground signal, switching it to ground for a short moment will flash the hazards, if you do it a couple seconds it will flash the headlights and hazards as long as connected. I couldn't find what wire the hazard lights one was in my records.

[Simonmiller]

Does your driver side door switch work (interior light comes on and off correctly)? Car won't lock if it thinks the driver door is open.

When you hear clicking from the Viper box, that means it is activating and the relays inside are switching. This means that the key fobs are working.

The door lock and unlock wires receive a +12V signal, check that the Viper box does that with a voltmeter. I remember that finding a correct diagram for my '99 was difficult because none of the online diagrams matched, took me a long time to find one that matched the colors my car had. My car has white/green for locking and blue/red for unlocking on the 12-pin connector at the ZKE behind the glove box, like you posted.

That connector behind the glove box does not have a wire for the parking lights, it's for flashing the hazards when locking and unlocking. That wire receives a ground signal, switching it to ground for a short moment will flash the hazards, if you do it a couple seconds it will flash the headlights and hazards as long as connected. I couldn't find what wire the hazard lights one was in my records.

Do you mean the interior light coming on as soon as the door opens and turns off when closed? If so, I’m not too sure. I turned the interior light off completely.

[me77]

Do you mean the interior light coming on as soon as the door opens and turns off when closed?...

Yes

[Simonmiller]

Yes

Not too sure, there’s three modes for me and the first two modes the interior light stays on. Third mode just shuts it off no matter what. Door opening/closing doesn’t effect any of these.

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Yes

Just figured out my car will unlock but not lock and I can’t get the interior light to work with the open/close of the door, how do I get around this so that the lock will work?

[orca4wd]

Somehow, my wiring schematic diagram factory harness #12 goes to dome light. I think you current set at not used.
1. Battery
2. Ignition
3. Ground
4. Door SW2 (driver)
5. Door SW3 (passenger)
6. Not used for Z3
7. Horn/Siren
8. Hazard Light
9. Door Lock
10. Door Unlock
11. Trunk SW
12 Dome Light

[z3forlife]

One of your door switches is showing the door open and preventing the doors from locking. You’ll have to hold the switch on the door striker one at a time to see which one or both are causing the dome light to stay on. If the stereo has been replaced it also could be the switch behind the head. This is another thing you can check with INPA. It will show status of all switches. Doors,hood/stereo,& trunk

[Simonmiller]

One of your door switches is showing the door open and preventing the doors from locking. You’ll have to hold the switch on the door striker one at a time to see which one or both are causing the dome light to stay on. If the stereo has been replaced it also could be the switch behind the head. This is another thing you can check with INPA. It will show status of all switches. Doors,hood/stereo,& trunk

What’s the switch on the door striker? & yes the stereo is replaced what switch are you talking about behind there? Thanks for the reply!

[z3forlife]

Your dome light switch is built into the door striker (the knob at the back of the door opening where the door latch catches). The stereo switch can be disconnected if you pull the head out. New strikers are currently unavailable but more are due in soon.

[Simonmiller]

Your dome light switch is built into the door striker (the knob at the back of the door opening where the door latch catches). The stereo switch can be disconnected if you pull the head out. New strikers are currently unavailable but more are due in soon.

So I tested driver side & when pushing down on the knob/sensor, I can lock the passengers door. Driver door still won’t lock. Then I disconnected the stereo switch & the drivers lock (when pressing on door striker switch) will move every couple of clicks but not lock. It seems like its trying to lock but it just moves a little side to side and doesn’t go down. The driver side lock is also very hard manually to push down compared to passengers.Whats your thoughts on this...?

[z3forlife]

C7811622-3DD3-49D0-A9DD-5C97D9A071D4.pngThis is the part that has the door dome light switch. Push it in then try locking. You may have a actuator problem too if one side locks but the other doesn’t

[Simonmiller]

C7811622-3DD3-49D0-A9DD-5C97D9A071D4.pngThis is the part that has the door dome light switch. Push it in then try locking. You may have a actuator problem too if one side locks but the other doesn’t

Hmm, like I was saying after the disconnect of the stereo switch & if I’m pressing the door striker sensor the passenger locks while the driver side moves but doesn’t lock. How would I know if the actuator is any good.

[Jbmw92]

Not too sure, there’s three modes for me and the first two modes the interior light stays on. Third mode just shuts it off no matter what. Door opening/closing doesn’t effect any of these.

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Just figured out my car will unlock but not lock and I can’t get the interior light to work with the open/close of the door, how do I get around this so that the lock will work?

Same problem here, does anyone have pictures of the switch behind the head of the stereo?

[Randy Forbes]

The more likely scenario is not one of the door-lock actuator failing, but that the wires that control it/give feedback on position have.

The wires go from the body into the door (at hinge pillar) are flexed every time the door is opened and closed. I have repaired fractured wires right there on numerous cars. Another common ailment on these cars...