You have wet plugs, fuel pressure at the rail, reacts to vacuum changes at the FPR, new fuel injectors. I guess you do not have a fuel delivery issue.
New plugs, wires, coil and known good ECU – use your old induction timing light to see if/how the spark rhythm changes as your engine falters.
You describe that the car consistently starts well when cold and runs for several minutes/miles. Here it seems you are describing a temperature related issue – I doubt it’s the fuel pump. But also when running smoothly (cold) it struggles to get over 4000 rpm. Since you have a good ECU then I’d be suspicious of O2 sensor or Cat/exhaust becoming constricted as it gets hot. Check your exhaust flow from cold to falter. Good luck.
Well I fixed it! I checked continuity from the coolant temperature sensor and was getting an intermittent connection at the dme plug. I checked the wiring and there was some rodent damage! this along with the actual sensor being bad was causing my no start issue. I actually got to drive the car today! definitely some other issues but overall pretty happy it doesn't die anymore!
Now the issue its having is it will run smooth to redline sometimes and other times it will sort of miss and pop unless I floor it to "clear it out". I also got a new code today while driving it. 1221 which is for 02 sensor.
The rodents also got to my front wheel speed and airbag sensor. Other issues are its leaking lots of hydraulic fluid from the drivers side rear shock absorber and it has a pretty good output shaft seal leak on the transmission. Other than that it was a successful drive! I miss being behind the wheel of an e32, such an elegant machine to drive.
Last edited by Bandit710; 02-21-2019 at 10:23 PM.
1972 2500 RHD "bavaria" restomod project
1974 2002 daily driver project
1988 TCD turbo e28
1989 325iX rally car
1991 735iL newest project.
Perfect! Good fault analysis. Congrats!
Next:
where is the LAD rear shock leaking? At the bottom? If so, that is the easiest, we repaired already a lot like this : http://s36.photobucket.com/user/kwan...?sort=3&page=1
above are the pics, the thread with dimensions is here http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/779173
the hotlinked pics in the thread are not working, but they are in the first link, best is you download them, do not hotlink them here. LAD shocks can be repaired, mostly o-ring, only the top seal is special, and there I still have some on stock if you need.
Top seal leaks when the bombs are dead. much stronger shocks then when driving for the top seals, Gert showed that here http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1261417/
read the cpl. thread http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1260634
The other small repairs you mentioned you can DIY, no need for help from here. trans output shaft seal replacement is on Johan's site http://bmwe32.masscom.net/
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks for all the help Shogun! Very happy to be back on the road.
The plan is to unfortunately delete the LAD system, my 88 735i has everything I need to do so.
This car is going to be my daily driver and I would prefer a more simple and reliable rear suspension.
I'm sure the LAD is fantastic when properly maintained though. I will keep all of the LAD stuff if I decide I would
like go back in the future.
1972 2500 RHD "bavaria" restomod project
1974 2002 daily driver project
1988 TCD turbo e28
1989 325iX rally car
1991 735iL newest project.
I am still having an issue of problematic idle and a big hesitation only when trying to rev from idle. A new 02 sensor didnt solve it. the engine runs great idling cold but once it warms up it doesnt want to rev unless I feather the throttle. After I rev it up once there is good response and power above idle. Once it drops back down to idle there is a little hesitation again. The longer I let it idle the worse the hesitation gets. Since there is no idle control valve on this engine like I am used to, maybe this is something to do with the electronic throttle? Is there good information on this system so I can troubleshoot? I would normally look at the ICV and TPS for an issue like this.
1972 2500 RHD "bavaria" restomod project
1974 2002 daily driver project
1988 TCD turbo e28
1989 325iX rally car
1991 735iL newest project.
On casrs with EML the whole system is controlled by the EML control unit and the adjustment of the throttle valve is dome via the motor. A typical problem is that the contact area where idle is used get's dirty and the brushes cannot exactly sense the position. Maybe you try to clean the TB, here an instruction for the M70 TB, should be similar for the M30 TB http://www.mwrench.com/Whitepapers/DKMotorcleanup.pdf
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/moswald/75...ies/index.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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