2002 525i - Steering rack going bad ?

[williamtii]

Hello All,

My 2002 525i Wagon has an odd steering issue where the wheel is not returning to center on its own. It started after putting on new snow tires, so I figured it was an alignment issue. An alignment did not solve the issue, and it was only a little off to start with. Over the past couple weeks it has become worse, now there is an audible notchiness or click when initiating a turn from center.


Some internet searching showed that likely causes are two bearings in the steering column, a U-joint on the lower shaft, or a bad rack. The power steering pump is pumping along happy and quiet, and the fluid is in good shape. These two threads were useful though too bad the pics are dead:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...earing-or-bush

https://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...Writeup-w-pics


The U-Joint looks fine and lube made no difference. Yesterday I pulled apart the column as best as possible and shot some PB into the bearings, but again no change. With the front wheels off the ground the bearings and U-Joint seem nice and smooth, but I still get the click at the top of the steering wheel.

Putting a helper behind the wheel, I can definitely feel the click in the steering rack. Just inside of where the inner tie rod is. So before I go order up a pricey rack and put the car out of commission for a weekend, has anyone had this happen?

I have had a few steering racks fail, but with the usual symptoms: Groaning, Leaking, bad pump, fluid never changed etc. And never with the weird symptom of the steering wheel not returning to center. Even cars with completely failed power steering will still center themselves.

Thanks for any input, I don't want to dive into a steering rack job if it could be something else! Although I could do the oil pan gasket at the same time, for additional fun.......

[WBAD530i]

Snow tires are made to grip the road. The resistance compared to your summer tires and used ball joints have possibly accelerated tie rod failure.

Sounds like you need to replace inner/outer tie rods on both sides. Don't do just one side since these are ball joints. If the rack isn't leaking it should be fine. If there is fluid coming out of the boots you need to replace the rack. $50 per side for tie rods, good preventative maintenance anyways. The shop that did your alignment should have caught a worn out inner rod though.

I had fluid pouring from my boots because it blew the seal out of the passenger side on the rack. It came out as fast as I could pour it in with the car started/pump running. I replaced the steering rack and used my old rods since they were good still. I do have a little bit of play off center so my used rods are likely wearing out. 2002 525i wagon here as well.

[williamtii]

I did the front suspension last year, Struts, Tie-Rods, Ball Joints, Thrust Arms etc. I had it up in the air yesterday and Tie Rods/Ball Joints are nice and tight.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Strut bearings gone bad, maybe? Those like to moan and groan and crunch when they go poop.

[WBAD530i]

So if you take the boots off the rods, have a helper turn the wheel left/right full lock, you don't feel the clicking at the inner rod with your hand on it? Could put a pair of vice grips on it for more leverage similar to how you would test a control arm bushing. Pull the wheel on left/right sides while its in the air and see if you can reproduce clicking then.

Also is your rack original? Maybe it has been replaced before with a reman. unit off ebay or something. I am personally using one of those remans now with no issue, but food for thought.

[ross1]

Strut bearings gone bad, maybe? Those like to moan and groan and crunch when they go poop.

This^ . Don't discount ball joints either. I just saw a Mustang with ball joints so &%^&*$ tight(rotten)that the rack would shudder in its bushing when turning the wheel with mighty effort. Car was un-drivable but they did anyway.

[williamtii]

It feels like the click originates from the rack. When holding the inner tie-rod I could feel it but was more dull. I replaced the strut bearings with the rest of the suspension job, forget to include that.

I am used to failing suspension components, having gone through over a dozen 100K+ BMW's. What is getting me is the steering wheel not returning to center. I have never had that happen before.

[m735is]

Are you sure you lubed up the lower joint- really good?

For mine, same symptoms with steering not returning to center/ stiff, some spray lube only lasted a day or two. I slopped on some grease and made sure to get in every angle I could while rotating the u-joint. This has kept it free moving for months now.

You could always disconnect the column from the rack and see if the click is still present in the rack. I guess you could disconnect the tie rods also to eliminate possibilities.

[ross1]

It feels like the click originates from the rack. When holding the inner tie-rod I could feel it but was more dull. I replaced the strut bearings with the rest of the suspension job, forget to include that.

I am used to failing suspension components, having gone through over a dozen 100K+ BMW's. What is getting me is the steering wheel not returning to center. I have never had that happen before.

The Mustang I referred to earlier had been misdiagnosed(by others) as having a bad rack. Once the tie rods were disconnected it was proven the rack moved smoothly. I suggest you also try disconnecting the tie rods and checking movement. These racks seldom, almost never, fail and the mode you describe isn't typical of a failed rack anyway.
My guess is strut bearings if there indeed is binding and not simply incorrect alignment or the long shot would be ball joints as I've described previously.
A binding steering column u-joint manifests itself in 90*(180*?, it's been a while since seeing one bad) increments, bind, loose, bind again a quarter(?) turn later.
If the column joint IS the culprit replace it. Slopping lube externally onto this joint is a fool's errand. It's dry inside, rusting and could seize without warning. How much fun that could be, eh?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

It’s the strut bearings. You’ve been yakking on this thread about what it might be since the 18th, cars not gonna fix itself. Start disconnecting the tie rods, start the car and turn the wheel, if the notchiness is still there, then maybe your rack has gone bad. If it’s smooth, then it’s your strut bearings. Fix it, you won’t even need an alignment, that is if your car has not been neglected.

[williamtii]

It’s the strut bearings. You’ve been yakking on this thread about what it might be since the 18th, cars not gonna fix itself. Start disconnecting the tie rods, start the car and turn the wheel, if the notchiness is still there, then maybe your rack has gone bad. If it’s smooth, then it’s your strut bearings. Fix it, you won’t even need an alignment, that is if your car has not been neglected.

Fix what? That's what we are trying to figure out right? We come to these forums to seek guidance from those with more experience in order to avoid throwing parts at it, or latching onto the first thing that comes to mind.

Strut bearings were replaced last year as mentioned above, along with Upper and Lower control arms / Ball Joints, Tie Rods, Sway Bar Links, and Struts. Tie Rods and Ball Joints feel tight, and no bad vibes are coming from the strut mounts.

I plan to disconnect the Tie-Rods and the Lower U-Joint for a closer look this weekend. I have lubed the joint a couple times from all angles and gave it a good work out with the front wheels in the air, no change. I can feel the click in the joint but it is more dull than when holding the rack, so I am assuming the issue is being transferred upstream but hard to tell by feel.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

I’ve seen strut bearings go bad real quick. What brand did you get? Just because you replaced something last year doesn’t mean squat. There are only so many things that can bind up in a steering system. Like I said earlier, free up the tie rods, turn the wheel. If the rack moves smoothly, that is, with the engine running, if the power steering pump is acting up, it’ll be noticeable. If it’s not those, it will be the strut bearings.

[williamtii]

Alright sorry for the late update. Strut bearings were from the dealer, they were cheaper than aftermarket with the happy discount.

With the tie rods disengaged the rack moves smoothly when the car is on and power steering activated. With the car off it feels notchy, coming from the rack itself. Looks like it's the rack itself.

I took it back to the alignment shop just to rule that out, better to throw $70 for confirmation before diving into a new rack. Alignment was fine before and after and the dude pointed to the rack as well after I asked him to take it on the Highway.

Anyone have a good used one for sale?