Less time on computer.........More on the road!!!!!!

[Jenbme]

About the car

I was given a 2000 540iA that had been sitting for about 6 months without a battery in it. I was told that it was parked because the fuel pump went out on it. The diamond shaped key was handed to me in 2 pieces because it was obvious somebody was looking to change the battery in it. (Although I have read that its not necessary) The buttons on the key fob do nothing when pressed. No spark, no pressure from the valve on the fuel rail. It cranks but doesnt start. Drivers side and rear passenger windows had both been busted out.

Troubleshooting

Fuel pump was changed and power going to it. Put a brand new battery in the key and its closed up pretty tight but if need be can still be opened. Good battery (900 CCA) put in the trunk with voltage currently reading 13.1. Many readings done throughout the car with meter to check for proper voltage.

Diagnostic software information

I purchased from Bcables/BMcables their BMW USB OBD K + DCAN DIAGNOSTIC CABLE (has the switch). Included 2 DVDs with the following software: ISTA D & ISTA P 2018, INPA v5.0.6, Ediabas v7.3.0, DIS, SSS Progman v32, NCS Expert v4.0.1, WinKFP v5.3.1, Toolset32 v4.0.3, TIS (Latest version), Navcoder (Trial)

I also went ahead and purchased the 20 pin adapter . Had a hell of a time working with DIS and VMWARE so moved on to try INPA. See following reports/errors:

I assumed my DME and EWS needed to be resynced and when I was in that area of INPA to do just that I received:

Attachment 645834

These were the errors that came up when I was reading through the EWS:

A. Power on reset. (0x000F 3F)
B . (0x000000 22)
C. Tolerance increases with key number. (0x00003 01)
D. Key invalid because of incorrect password. (0x0011 19)
E. invalid due to incorrect identification. (0x0010 3F)
F. DME change code XOR error (0x000E FF)
G. .Tolerance increases with key number. (0x001306)
H. invalid due to incorrect change code. (0x001226)

Not sure what these messages are telling me and what I need to do next. Please help. Thank you

[geargrinder]

Jenny I got your number (8675309 apparently). No worries about the extra PM's.

We're in business now. Lets get rollin' on this sucker.

I was told that it was parked because LIES LIES LIES

OK. FTFY. Yeah. Assume nothing, believe nothing at this point.

The diamond shaped key was handed to me in 2 pieces because it was obvious somebody was looking to change the battery in it.

OK again. This is interesting. Do you have any evidence the PO (prev own) might have tried rewiring stuff and bypassing the EWS (immobilizer module in BMW-speak) wiring to the starter? The busted-open key and the codes are very very suspicious. You might look under the dash and see if it looks like he did and nasty stuff under there. It is possible he stupidly tried to "hot wire the starter around the EWS" based on reading about some old E36 BMW where that was possible but totally unrelated to this car.

Fuel pump was changed and power going to it. Put a brand new battery in the key and its closed up pretty tight but if need be can still be opened. Good battery (900 CCA) put in the trunk with voltage currently reading 13.1. Many readings done throughout the car with meter to check for proper voltage.

Lord only knows at this point if the FP was necessary. But can't hurt. Probably wasn't new so hey, get ahead on maintenance. Good job on the battery, prob a good idea.

First principle to learn: Battery in the key doesn't have anything to do with starting. Battery is only related to the remote lock systems. Remote lock system has nearly no connection to the starting functions. I'd say "no" relation except if the car is locked and armed it won't start but as long as the car is unlocked manually at the door and the 'clown nose' on the mirror isn't flashing then the locking system is not getting in the way. Again, battery in key totally unrelated to starting, the EWS reads the key with RFID type technology (you know like the beepers when you steal crap from Best Buy and run out the door)

I purchased from Bcables/BMcables their BMW USB OBD K + DCAN DIAGNOSTIC CABLE (has the switch). Included 2 DVDs with the following software: ISTA D & ISTA P 2018, INPA v5.0.6, Ediabas v7.3.0, DIS, SSS Progman v32, NCS Expert v4.0.1, WinKFP v5.3.1, Toolset32 v4.0.3, TIS (Latest version), Navcoder (Trial)

OK well done good move. Of all that the basic INPA is of most use to you, just reading error codes but also "read status" screens. INPA is clunky looking but it is fast and efficient and does what you need 90% of the time.

Attachment isn't coming up for me but maybe that's because you're noob and a mod needs to approve it, I dunno. Regardless the error code list is great.

A. Power on reset. (0x000F 3F)
B . (0x000000 22)
C. Tolerance increases with key number. (0x00003 01)
D. Key invalid because of incorrect password. (0x0011 19)
E. invalid due to incorrect identification. (0x0010 3F)
F. DME change code XOR error (0x000E FF)
G. .Tolerance increases with key number. (0x001306)
H. invalid due to incorrect change code. (0x001226)

The power-on reset just means battery was disconnected. No worries there.

The other errors indicate various EWS validation errors. Most worrisome are the key errors.

As I've said many times there are 2 core parts of EWS (there's some other stuff but this is the core part...)
1. EWS-Key validation to enable the starter.
2. EWS-DME validation to fire fuel and ignition

If the car was attempted to be started with a nearly-totally-dead-but-not-quite-dead car battery, the EWS and the key will become unsync'd. That seems like it probably happened from the codes.
To fix this it is a PITA and needs special hardware devices. The most common one is an "AK90". Using that somebody can re-set the key-EWS sync to their 'passwords' match again.

For sure you prob need to reset the EWS-DME sync. That happens in the DME screens not in the EWS screens. This is easy, as long as the EWS and DME truly are the proper ones and match each other.

I think PO was dumbass and/or got bad advice and/or had a clueless mechanic and they tried to cut the key open and replace the battery and then maybe even hotwired the starter and who knows what else. Maybe he even was told "BAD ECU" and then swapped the ECU and now thats why the ECU won't sync with the EWS.

Here's things I would do if I were you (stopping if the car either starts or you find the problem...):

1. Record all DME and EWS error codes, then clear them, then try and start again and see what comes back. Then clear again.
2. While you are there, read the INPA "Coding" screens for the DME and the EWS. Does the VIN match the cars proper VIN? Do they match each other? That would be a sign somebody tried to stupidly swap modules in this car.
3. Go into INPA and EWS "read digital status" or whatever its called screen, and see what it says about allowing starter. There will be a page with a bunch of dots. See what those say. Pic posted below. If any of the lower dots are on then there's a key/EWS error and if the starter still spins then the PO did some hotwiring that probably wants some looking into.
4. Perform EWS Resync in the INPA DME screens (Shift-F6 then F2? Don't hold me to it... you'll find it...) After it completes once hit F2 again. This platform seems to require that for some reason, usually you get an error the first time and success the second. Turn car off! Then try and start again. If it doesn't start, read the codes again.

EWS status screen should look something like this (this is from different engine but it'll be basically same)



Do all that stuff and let us know what you find. Shouldn't take long, would take me about 20mins max to rip down that list of checks and tries.

OH also keep that battery on a charger for sure, all this reading/coding/start attempts is gonna put a toll on it and you don't want to make things worse.

[Jenbme]

Good afternoon.

Before jumping onto INPA to perform the steps you suggested I took a look underneath the dash. I didn't find any evidence the wires had been messed with.

I wanted to touch a little bit on your response regarding the key in relation to the locking system. I know I initially had mentioned that two of the windows were busted out and so is the windshield which I failed to do. The story I was told is an ex girlfriend went after this car when she was mad at the guy. So Ive got this thought process in my head thinking that once the car was attacked and the theft system realized a problem it caused it to continously go off. This could in turn cause battery voltage to drop and even maybe misalignment of key with EWS due to starting it.
The person possibly not knowing anything about this feature would think battery in key is dead therefore trying to replace it. Say if I happen to be correct in thinking so what effects would there be of not having these windows in place, if any???

One other question before I get to testing results from DME & EWS....................as I mentioned already before; what significance is there in having no fuel presure from the Schrader valve???

INPA:
- I confirmed that both modules had the same VIN shown which were correct for my vehicle
- After reading the digital status (internal state) of the EWS this is what was shown on screen:
Attachment 645926 (I dont know if you can see attachment but basically all the dots were white)
While I was on this screen I hit the F3 button for Actual key and the attachment shows what came up:
20190218_140346.jpg. Except that every few seconds the key number and identification would.
change to different values. (WHAT IS THIS INFORMATION ABOUT?)
- Button F4 for the ISN PW displayed: ERROR_ECU_REJECTED
The errors received for the DME (then cleared them) before starting car were the same as after starting it.
A. #148. EWS 3.3 Interface DME-EWS. With 3 different occurences listed along with values for Engine speed,
Engine temperature, and supply voltage
- Under the EWS module while under the coding screen to check VIN I noticed the following information as well
just in case its relevant: Start thru K bus---------Enable via Kbus not possible
Starter switch off resolutions------------33.3
Starter switch off time-------------2.0
- On the next screen I read the errors and only got 1 which was......... #15 Power on reset (Error frequency 31)
I cleared the error and after starting the car my report showed NO ERRORS!!!!!

EWS-DME Sync:
Besides the options F1 and F2 on the screen was the line stating 'The DME did not request a seed balance'. I proceeded to hit F2 and got the EDABIAS- ApiCheckjobstatus error. I selected yes to Continue Script processing. Hit F2 once more and inside the box it said 'DME ready for reception start value'. I hit okay and the line that said 'The DME did not request a seed balance' when initially going into the Synchronization screen now said 'Start value not understood transmission error).

[geargrinder]

Ok. Not well written but a lot of info. I guess.

Yes your theory about the car being effed-with leading to a dead battery and a lost key sync has some merit. Maybe or maybe not exactly how you spell it out (alarm shuts off after a period to prevent dead battery but if the car was in general left open and water got in or people constantly messing w it etc...) yeah something like that for sure could have been a story.

Your attachement process is problematic. I think I can see the 2nd image but not the first. It clearly says that key is invalid. So how it’s turning the starter motor I don’t know. But I’d like to see the other screenshot.

You say “before starting” and “after starting” many times. So is the car starting now? Or are you saying “before and after trying to start “?

The errors in DME sync are odd. I’ve not seen that assortment of messages. But an EDIABAS API script error and “continue script” usually means a communication error and continuing usually doesn’t actually work.

Is your cables com port set to latency of 1?

[Chedley]

Also, are you sure using the INPA cable in the correct mode (K line mode) ? If not, just flip the switch on that cable.

and with the right connector (the 16 pins connector under the dashboard, driver side?

I ask because the message you printed above is very suspicious ; it looks like the K-line to the EWS is not functional.
"Start thru K bus

---------Enable via Kbus not possible"
l?

[geargrinder]

^^^ good suggestion. IF the cable doesn't have a switch then you have to "switch it" via software that comes with the cable. Its like kdcan.exe or something. Cable needs to be plugged in when you do.

- - - Updated - - -

But of course...

<snip>before starting car were the same as after starting it.
<snip>after starting the car

If the car is starting now... maybe everythin' is OK after all!?!?! Who knows!?

[Jenbme]

Okay so that first image you were not able to pull up from my last post is this one here 20190218_140310.jpg
which shows that when reading the digital status/internal state all the dots were white. As you can also see to the lower part of the pic is the symbol for the D-CAN cable. Before starting up INPA I do attach my cable to the 20 pin connector port rather than the one under the steering wheel because if Im not mistaken in what I read the port under hood gives feedback to all tests except for the particular test (I cant remember exactly which one) that is better for reading from the one under the steering wheel. I then start DCAN.exe.. I see that its showing the correct COM# and I quickly select the KCAN box on the screen while red light is shining on the cable. The cable com port is set to latency of 1. Each time I referred to "starting the car" were actually just attempts at trying to start the car.

Quick question for confirmation...........when holding the cable in your hand to where the port is facing upward is the switch supposed to be on the left or right side for K line?

[Chedley]

Quick question for confirmation...........when holding the cable in your hand to where the port is facing upward is the switch supposed to be on the left or right side for K line?

I believe left side is K-Line. But try each side; it is a binary switch. Only one side will work for K-Line.

[geargrinder]

Correct, normally its to the left. I just look at the "K+DCAN" sticker. K is on the left and D is on the right on the label... (though youd think some genius in China would think to label the frikkin switch positions...)

Once the port is properly set you don't need to mess with the utility, it should stay COM1 as long as you don't change that on the computer again.

Have you re-tried the EWS sync since fixing the latency setting?

[bmchuckleyou]

Just a thought; since you mentioned you received the key in two pieces.

Have you checked to confirm the transponder chip is still present?

[geargrinder]

JennyJenny is kind of sporadic... .

I'm just gonna repost the advice I put in her other thread where they thought that maybe taping a transponder chip to the ignition like some moron with a Toyota who didn't want to spring for an ebay key with a transponder pocket did, was gonna solve her problem.

JennyJenny. Who can I turn to? Not you apparently.

I see your video and raise you one video.



Love the 80's creepy peeping Tom video. I really want that Tele he's playing though. That thing looks sweet. Anyway.

That OTHER VIDEO is a completely stupid stupid stupid video. That is such a stupid video you should ask a mod to delete this thread to save yourself the embarassment of people seeing what a stupid video you linked to. What a moron that guy is. Good lord. That is not EVEN REMOTELY a "transponder key bypass" (as he has labeled it). He is taking a good known authenticated RFID chip FROM A WORKING OLD ORIGINAL KEY and sticking it to the ignition. That's not a bypass. That's just "taking the actual good working transponder chip out of a working key and then tape it on the antenna ring like a frickkkin retard". If he wasn't a moron he'd buy a key blank on the internet that has room inside for the transponder chip, swap the chip over to that, then just drive around normally.

I told you a few times that probably your key is completely effed up from the PO hacking away at it. The key ID screen you posted clearly says "key invalid" so indeed I'd have to suspect your key is either effed, or, PO effed up the sync with it some time ago. Yes confirming that stuff is hacked up inside may confirm that although whether that coil you see nicked up is the problem or not is unclear. Almost doesn't matter.

Generally if the starter turns, the key is fine, so one of these things must be true:

1. PO naively rewired the EWS - starter wire to the ignition to try to get the car to start, or,
2. There's some very rare condition where where the key is half-recognized allowing starter to turn but still interfering with the DME sync and engine start
3. Longlong shot maybe the EWS module itself is borked and acting up.

I'd put odds like 75% on #1 and 20% on #2 and 5% on #3. Maybe even more for #1.
I've seen weird key problems when antenna or key is really showing odd symptoms (your symptoms are odd.... key invalid yet starter not disabled...) but its super rare.

Why EWS-DME sync won't complete I"m not sure but it may be it requires a good key in the ignition to complete. That said you're getting those EDIABAS API errors which means something is wrong with your setup and it is having difficulty talking to the modules, so I'd make sure you have flawless communication first with your cable.

If I were you I would:

1. Fix the comms error you're getting and see where that leads you (aka can you get EWS-DME sync to complete... you are trying this with ignition on but car not running, right?)
2. But also and anyway... just order a new dealer key. It should work right out of the box (you'll need a title or reg in your name to get that BTW) . It won't be cheap but your current key is effed and this way you'd take that out of the picture completely. Hell you should always have 2 keys any way for emergency purposes.
3. If you still have issues w/ EWS after that then you'd have to consider the module being a problem but I'd reassess after doing steps 1&2
4. If and when the car starts running w/ a new dealer key, THEN maybe sometime you can get somebody with an AK90 to see if they can make that old existing key work.

[computiNATEor]

Correct me if I'm wrong... You can take the two largest wires in the EWS module's harness, crimp/solder/tape them together, and bypass the EWS. No?

[geargrinder]

Nate Bud, are you messing with me? Don’t be mean to the old man. We have to watch our blood pressure.

[computiNATEor]

Nate Bud, are you messing with me? Don’t be mean to the old man. We have to watch our blood pressure.

No, I’m not. I have a friend who couldn’t get a salvaged M5 to start, and he got the car running by crossing the biggest wires in the EWS plug. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[geargrinder]

No, I’m not. I have a friend who couldn’t get a salvaged M5 to start, and he got the car running by crossing the biggest wires in the EWS plug. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Dude you must miss the fact that I explain the specific details of how EWS works 3-4 times a week to n00bz and derps (as well as nice people who appreciate it however at the moment there's a lotta clueless kids who've bought 'long sitting dead won't start' E39's it seems that have EWS problems).

It is actually becoming a real problem. Basically it goes something like...
1. N00bie McDerpderp posts "Just bought a car that won't start symptoms are blah blah".
2. GG and/or Qsilver and/or some other oldhead who actually knows facts explains in detail very important cogent information on how the systems work...
3. Noobie says "But my dumbass shadetree mechanic who hasn't the slightest inkling how EWS works says..."
4. Expert person re-explains the system again and how mechanic is wrong and proposed fix is a waste of time
5. N.McDd. ignores explanation says "but I saw this YouTube video about something totally stupid won't that work!?!?"
6. Expert person repeats step 4...
7. Repeat steps 3-6 until either homicide or suicide occurs

I think this might call for a 'EWS FAQ' type post... QSilver probably has one already I bet but I might make another so I can stop posting the same stuff over and over...

Re: your misunderstanding of EWS... well... all I can say is... YOU should really know how the system works by now buddy, with your long history with these cars! Your buds hotwire may have worked if all that was missing was a factory key, although I'm even surprised if that was the case, but in fact thats what I suspect might be going on with Jenny's car (some kind of ill-advised hotwire).

Bottom line, no you can't delete/bypass an EWS 3.3 system completely with a quick hotwire. Maybe you can bypass the starter-trigger (as I suggest on this very page to Jenny BTW) but a full EWS delete would require both the key-starter bypass, and, EWS-delete on the DME code. And ultimately I would not be surprised if the hotwire has some collateral issues for a real road daily driving car, but maybe I'm wrong about that. Go read up on the system so you get it. Otherwise I'm just repeating steps 2/4/6 here yet again.

[computiNATEor]

Dude you must miss the fact that I explain the specific details of how EWS works 3-4 times a week to n00bz and derps (as well as nice people who appreciate it however at the moment there's a lotta clueless kids who've bought 'long sitting dead won't start' E39's it seems that have EWS problems).

It is actually becoming a real problem. Basically it goes something like...
1. N00bie McDerpderp posts "Just bought a car that won't start symptoms are blah blah".
2. GG and/or Qsilver and/or some other oldhead who actually knows facts explains in detail very important cogent information on how the systems work...
3. Noobie says "But my dumbass shadetree mechanic who hasn't the slightest inkling how EWS works says..."
4. Expert person re-explains the system again and how mechanic is wrong and proposed fix is a waste of time
5. N.McDd. ignores explanation says "but I saw this YouTube video about something totally stupid won't that work!?!?"
6. Expert person repeats step 4...
7. Repeat steps 3-6 until either homicide or suicide occurs

I think this might call for a 'EWS FAQ' type post... QSilver probably has one already I bet but I might make another so I can stop posting the same stuff over and over...

Re: your misunderstanding of EWS... well... all I can say is... YOU should really know how the system works by now buddy, with your long history with these cars! Your buds hotwire may have worked if all that was missing was a factory key, although I'm even surprised if that was the case, but in fact thats what I suspect might be going on with Jenny's car (some kind of ill-advised hotwire).

Bottom line, no you can't delete/bypass an EWS 3.3 system completely with a quick hotwire. Maybe you can bypass the starter-trigger (as I suggest on this very page to Jenny BTW) but a full EWS delete would require both the key-starter bypass, and, EWS-delete on the DME code. And ultimately I would not be surprised if the hotwire has some collateral issues for a real road daily driving car, but maybe I'm wrong about that. Go read up on the system so you get it. Otherwise I'm just repeating steps 2/4/6 here yet again.

An EWS FAQ would be a great sticky thread. I've never (knock on wood) had an issue with the EWS in any of my cars.

As to my buddy, he had the factory key, but something in the EWS was disabling the starter. He may have modified the DME, I'm not sure.

[Jenbme]

Im back with another probably stupid but oh well I thought thats what coming to these forums were for when trying to understand things. Its how you learn. So I saw the items in the pic below on ebay for about the same price I would pay for a key from the dealership. What I am curious about is the fact that the EWS module is VIN specific so how does replacing all of these items in ones car end up working? Im just exploring options until payday comes in a few days. Screenshot_2019-02-26-22-10-58(1).jpg

[Chedley]

These items (EWS, DME,...etc..) can be virginized -to use geargrinder's terminology that always amuses me.-.
Then they can be coded or reprogrammed to your car's specific parameters, using INPA / Dis/ NCSExpert...etc..

Jenbme---> Let me add a fair warning: make sure you know what you are doing when coding/programming your car with INPA. You can completely disable it , and brick a few modules in there.

[geargrinder]

I more or less cover that in the new EWS writeup.

A setup like that more or less sorta drops right in. When the car is scanned the VIN wouldn't match anymore if that matters. Virginizing the DME can be done - but - more $$ - and the whole reason jackasses want to 'swap a cheap setup in instead' is in a misguided attempt to take a shortcut and save money. Why would you possibly buy a set like that, if you're just going to pay a guy to virginize it? Then you should be able to just pay the same coding/programming guy to fix the setup you have now...

More obviously the door key won't match anymore so if you're every locked out and remote fails then you need to have the 'old' keys. Of course those sets almost never come with more than 1 key so you are STILL in the "ONLY ONE KEY TO START THE CAR" boat. If a set comes with 2 then its a much better scenario, just rare cuz cars don't go to junkyards with the extra key which the OP has sitting in the drawer at home from before he wrecked the thing.

Another small thing that "SWAPPED A WHOLE DME/EWS/KEY" guys (low budget losers with crappy cars it seems who spend years of their lives trying to save $200 on a car thats' very expensive to maintain anyway...) miss is that the tune/calibration changes a little over time based on the evap system the car has. So. If you MUST do the "Derp CHEAP EBAY SWAP WILL BE BETTER THAN FIXING IT THE RIGHT WAY, RIGHT!?!?!" then you should either 1. try to find a set from the same model year, or, 2. have it flashed to the right matching calibration once you get it in the car and running. Otherwise you may have evap codes showing up. LDP vs DMTL vs DMTL-H etc. Of course cheapskates who don't fix things properly probably don't care about codes either.

I mean if you have to, swapping DME/EWS/keys can be done. But most of the time there's better ways to fix the problem. Starting with properly diagnosing the problem, and following with fixing it the right way.