m62tu engine harness schematic

[401michael]

Hello all, I am working on swapping an m62tu into my car and would like to find a schematic of the harness so I could wire the electric pedal to it for my car. Is there one in the Bentley manual for the e39? a pdf online? any info helps. Thanks in advance.

[jmc1590]

Wds or newtis.info

I think those will be your best bets.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[geargrinder]

Correct. Newtis kind of blows actually and is sketchy on the WDS it has but it doesn't require any dicking around with your browser.

Lately I've been using these guys pages. Still requires some browser dicking around although its easier than the old wds-planet site (dead) was.

FWIW I run an old version of Firefox browser to get that one to work but it takes a while to figure out and setup. Firefox 51.0 is the absolute latest you can go and still get that Java stuff to work. You have to install it and immediately turn off updates to keep it locked back in time or else it will update and break the ability to run the site. I just use that Firefox for WDS purposes so its kind of a 'dedicated browser install'. You also have to (follow instructions on the website) to install java and allow security for blah blah and every time you start it up you have to say "yes its OK to run this unsafe program that is probably stealing my identity for Russian hackers blah blah'.

https://www.pss-autosoft.net/diagram...e/us/index.htm

If any of that sounds like PITA to you then just see if you can find what you need on newtis.

All that said.

Yes the Bentley manual comes in 2 parts for this car - one whole book is wiring diagrams. If you're doing this job you might find that useful. One warning is sometimes its (the Bentley that is) a little short on info for the M62TU. Like the timing job documentation isn't really there 100%, there's stuff for non-VANOS M62 but missing bits for TU stuff. Not that most of the manual wouldn't be helpful but just sayin it has gaps.

Basically you're not going to find one "engine harness" diagram sadly, car is way to complicated for that to print out even if there was one unless you had some big roll-printer that could print a page the size of a wall. You'll have to pick out the bits here and there you need. OK yes there IS usually one "DME (ECU) master diagram" but it is really more of an "abstract" and doesn't show pin numbers or colors or anything, it just shows you what all the basic connections go to, then you have to go find those detail diagrams for the wire colors and pin numbers.

The pedal shouldn't be too hard to figure out though. It has dual parallel potentiometers inside for failsafe reasons, and therefore there's a few more wires than you'd expect but they just get wired right back to the DME (ECU). Here is that diagram specifically.




Extra bonus time, here's the total DME pinout:

https://www.pss-autosoft.net/diagram...39_PA6000D.htm

[geargrinder]

BTW, are you putting this in your E34?

Assuming yes, have you sorted out how you're going to deal with EWS? You can get your DME EWS-deleted but at the moment its a costly tweak you have to pay somebody who has the secret sauce knowledge to do it for you.

I doubt the lock-cylinder from E39 will swap into your column but if it did that would for sure be the easiest and cheapest: stick an E39 lock into the column and then just use the E39 keys and EWS.

You might be able to swap the E39 EWS into your car and pair some E34 keys to it using an AK90... but that would be more of a long shot, and at very least might require obtaining virgin chips for the E34 keys.

[JimLev]

Might be easier to grab the wiring harness from a junkyard, you'll then have all the connectors and pins you'll need.
Your going to need wiring for both cam sensors and the vanos solenoids too.

[geargrinder]

I'm betting he has the engine harness but doesn't have the body-side harness parts which is why he needs the pedal bit. That might be hard to extract from a junkyard car with the dash/console all still installed, but at least you might be able to chop the end off and then chop an end on the engine bay side, and then splice the colors all up in between with a homebrew harness.

[whiteghost1]

Might be easier to grab the wiring harness from a junkyard, you'll then have all the connectors and pins you'll need.
Your going to need wiring for both cam sensors and the vanos solenoids too.

As a matter of fact I happen to have an m62tu engine harness that is intact, so there’s no need to go to a junkyard ��.
Would be happy to give you a deal on it, PM me if interested.

[401michael]

BTW, are you putting this in your E34?

Assuming yes, have you sorted out how you're going to deal with EWS? You can get your DME EWS-deleted but at the moment its a costly tweak you have to pay somebody who has the secret sauce knowledge to do it for you.

I doubt the lock-cylinder from E39 will swap into your column but if it did that would for sure be the easiest and cheapest: stick an E39 lock into the column and then just use the E39 keys and EWS.

You might be able to swap the E39 EWS into your car and pair some E34 keys to it using an AK90... but that would be more of a long shot, and at very least might require obtaining virgin chips for the E34 keys.

Yes this is going into my e34 540 with a 6 speed. I was going to get the ecu flashed so I can run it with my original key. I wanted to make a harness for the gas pedal to keep the drive by wire. I bought the engine and trans with the harness and dme came out of an s62 swapped 540.

[401michael]

I'm betting he has the engine harness but doesn't have the body-side harness parts which is why he needs the pedal bit. That might be hard to extract from a junkyard car with the dash/console all still installed, but at least you might be able to chop the end off and then chop an end on the engine bay side, and then splice the colors all up in between with a homebrew harness.

yeah I had thought of doing that. lots of tu 540s and 740s in the u-pull-it by me all autos though not sure if the pedals are different for either one. gonna get some dtcs deleted off of the dme and hopefully I can use the message center in my cluster still. I am looking to make this swap as factory as possible where I can still use my peak scanner etc. going to need mostly wiring done for this pedal the engine side probably wont need as much. car is gonna get a restomod of sorts. looking to have the torque from a tu. my understanding is that those engines make a lot more power than a non-vanos m62? going to do a full refresh on the motor guides, vanos seals, bearings. originally I did a m62 hybrid motor and it made good power but the rod bearings went on that one so time for a new one.

[geargrinder]

OK - here's something you need to know about.

So there are 2 kinds of TU pedals.

The early 540's and M5's had a top-hung pedal basically that was identical to the cable-throttle older cars. The pedal it self anchors to the floor but then pushes on a lever that is top-hung. The potentiometers for the DBW is then up above the pedal connected by an arm to the lever etc. Basically where the cable would have attached instead you have this potentiometer assembly.

The later cars, like DBW E46's, just have a self-contained tidy little floor-pedal. That floor pedal has a bracket which bolts to the floor, then you slide the pedal asssembly on to the bracket. (tip: guys often break the pedal or the bracket trying to get them off but its not hard to do it right and not break anything)

If you look in the top picture here (most of what is there you don't care about as you're not trying to swap a whole pedal-bracket) you can see the potentiometer for a top-hung DBW pedal. Sorry I can't seem to find a good pic of a top-hung pedal at the moment.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...acket-Versions

The floor mount self-contained dude is this (sorry for ugly pic, stolen from innerwebz):
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-6bOumAp8LA/maxresdefault.jpg

You'll have to decide which retrofit seems most acheivable. I suspect probably the top-hung potentiometer retro'd to your gas pedal, but it might take pulling your pedal bracket out and fabricating on the bench. BTW if you want that E39 top-hung pot/pedal bracket thats pictured in the thread above, PM me... I got no use for it... Shipping + a few beers and its yours.

Re: auto/manual, well the floor pedals are exactly the same except for 2 things:
1. The connector is keyed slightly different so you need to steal the connector from the same car (however electrically identical)
2. The auto pedal has a 'clicker' in it for kick-down. Literally its a noise maker that goes "click" when you hit full WOT to simulate an old fashioned 'kickdown' lever. You can take that right out of the pedal and voila, a "manual" pedal (except the connector socket is still different)

So if you go floor-mount, you don't care what the car you take it off has, just delete the clicker if its an auto. I imagine the 'interim' top-hung cars have some similar kick-down clicker thing going on but I can't confirm.

[geargrinder]

Yes this is going into my e34 540 with a 6 speed. I was going to get the ecu flashed so I can run it with my original key. .

OH yeah. So yeah, practically you're going to need EWS-delete on the DME then. This is not a 'public' mod yet, but DUDMD can do it for you.

If you do that, and wire the starter up to the same exact EWS starter-trigger wiring that your E34 runs, then your existing EWS SHOULD continue to work as it has (meaning you'll keep EWS/key/starter security on the car, and just lose the EWS-DME security)

[401michael]

OH yeah. So yeah, practically you're going to need EWS-delete on the DME then. This is not a 'public' mod yet, but DUDMD can do it for you.

If you do that, and wire the starter up to the same exact EWS starter-trigger wiring that your E34 runs, then your existing EWS SHOULD continue to work as it has (meaning you'll keep EWS/key/starter security on the car, and just lose the EWS-DME security)

I plan on having him do it actually lol. I went to the dealer with the vin and ordered a pedal for the car. Got my transmission cross member as well.

[geargrinder]

I plan on having him do it actually lol. I went to the dealer with the vin and ordered a pedal for the car. Got my transmission cross member as well.

You bought the pedal from the dealer!? For a swap!? Errrrmmmm... OK!

Did you pay ANY ATTENTION at all to the whole "two pedal styles" story I told you before?

[401michael]

You bought the pedal from the dealer!? For a swap!? Errrrmmmm... OK!

Did you pay ANY ATTENTION at all to the whole "two pedal styles" story I told you before?

I went on real oem and found which type of pedal this car used the module not the potentiometer set up. everything brand new and all I need to do is find a plug and create a harness.

[geargrinder]

SO I wasted my time with all that above then. Jeez ya derpderp if you were just gonna “PUT VIN IN AND BUY FROM DEALER” then why’d you BOTHER ASKING HERE. I gave you far BETTER and RICHER information for a swap sitch than derpderp OEMPARTS. Did you spend one second looking at your cars floorboard and pedal cluster and reading what I said and thinking about which was gonna fit better? EITHER SETUP WORKS FINE WITH THE DME. THERE ARE TWO. EFF THE VIN THAT IS IMMATERIAL. CRAP IF WE PUT YOUR REAL VIN IN IT WOULD SAY THIS MOTOR DOESNT FIT.

BUT OK never mind. My fault again for blindly wasting time with a n00b stranger.

Good luck. If you hit problems and want to actually listen to the details and appreciate the help offered then... we’ll go try someone else’s patience.

[JimLev]

LOL, guess you can lead 'em to water but can't make them drink.

[401michael]

SO I wasted my time with all that above then. Jeez ya derpderp if you were just gonna “PUT VIN IN AND BUY FROM DEALER” then why’d you BOTHER ASKING HERE. I gave you far BETTER and RICHER information for a swap sitch than derpderp OEMPARTS. Did you spend one second looking at your cars floorboard and pedal cluster and reading what I said and thinking about which was gonna fit better? EITHER SETUP WORKS FINE WITH THE DME. THERE ARE TWO. EFF THE VIN THAT IS IMMATERIAL. CRAP IF WE PUT YOUR REAL VIN IN IT WOULD SAY THIS MOTOR DOESNT FIT.

BUT OK never mind. My fault again for blindly wasting time with a n00b stranger.

Good luck. If you hit problems and want to actually listen to the details and appreciate the help offered then... we’ll go try someone else’s patience.

did not mean to try your patience. sorry about that. been a while since Ive been on here. the schematic and pinout you posted have come in handy as I fumble my way through this, thank you by the way. the pedal I chose was really to save the trouble of screwing around with the existing pedal assembly. I want to just remove the old pedal and bolt the new complete "everything in one pedal" to the floor and run the plug where it has to go. I am just using the vins to get some parts I have a commercial account with the dealership so I pay a lot less than what they normally mark up on the parts and it saves me a trip to u pull it unless its a discontinued part. I have been working on wiring up a cluster so I can have the message center etc, but Im happy as long as the tach and speedo work and the low oil pressure and temp warning. doing all of this in my spare time I have a second harness from one of the other engines i have and ive been using it to refer to the schematic tracing wires etc. takes some time. still have to send my dme out just figuring out what I need to delete from the motor other than the cats and sap valve. again sorry for testing your patience didnt mean to.

[Capitan]

did not mean to try your patience. sorry about that. been a while since Ive been on here. the schematic and pinout you posted have come in handy as I fumble my way through this, thank you by the way. the pedal I chose was really to save the trouble of screwing around with the existing pedal assembly. I want to just remove the old pedal and bolt the new complete "everything in one pedal" to the floor and run the plug where it has to go. I am just using the vins to get some parts I have a commercial account with the dealership so I pay a lot less than what they normally mark up on the parts and it saves me a trip to u pull it unless its a discontinued part. I have been working on wiring up a cluster so I can have the message center etc, but Im happy as long as the tach and speedo work and the low oil pressure and temp warning. doing all of this in my spare time I have a second harness from one of the other engines i have and ive been using it to refer to the schematic tracing wires etc. takes some time. still have to send my dme out just figuring out what I need to delete from the motor other than the cats and sap valve. again sorry for testing your patience didnt mean to.

Michael, I know this is an old topic but did you finish this build? can we have some photos? Planning to do the same M62TUB44 swap into an E34 and I am gathering as much info on the topic as I can find. Thanks.