Tow it the 64 miles
Push it to the limit.....
Just had an indy replace my tensioner for my timing chain as well as the timing chain cover gaskets replaced and asked the guy to check out my tensioners and if there was any wear to go ahead and replace them while the whole engine was basically apart any way. Got the car back and he said the guides looked fine to him no need to replace. I was happy to save 800-1200 on top of my already 4k bill (I also replaced basically the whole subframe suspension in this go as well)
I had to drive the car a solid 1200 miles about 2 weeks after the repair and it developed a high pitched whine on the drive home. Then when I got here it started throwing cam positioning sensor codes and making a VICIOUS chatter.
I have another 68 miles to transport the vehicle before i can take it apart and replace the chain and guides myself.
Would it be best to just tow to the destination? Or could it make the remainder 63-65 mile drive without extreme damage to the motor..
I figure the worst possible scenario is slipped timing and bent valves so on so forth
motor has 165k on it
Last edited by zarboz; 02-21-2019 at 09:54 AM.
I see this happen alot.... I think when the the tensioner is replaced on a high mileage car it puts new tension that is introduced the the brittle and timing setup. Unless he installed it incorrect lol. I'd check it out because at 160k+ the guides usually go. Im at 166k soon ill have to do this aswell. Not interested in just replacing the tensioner.
Last edited by JimLev; 02-17-2019 at 12:58 PM. Reason: Remove unnecessary profanity
When in doubt tow the car, in this case tow the car, you can never make the problem worse when towing and flat bed it
I replaced my timing chain tensioner @ just 121k miles as preventative maintenance and the engine sounded like a bag of nails within 250 miles. It had been running perfectly until the tensioner change and sure enough the plastic guides had given up. No other damage to the engine and I guess I drove it 25 miles before I realised how bad the noise was.
Got the job done by a great local mechanic and engine has been perfect since. Best to err on the side of caution!
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Getting a flatbed ordered all the guide replacement parts for the lower gaskets / guides etc (considering I just replaced the upper timing cover gaskets / vanos gaskets / valve cover gaskets......)
Will upload lots of pics once I have the motor apart to see how bad it looks
Serious DIY, I like tinkering but didn’t have the time or know-how for this job so best of luck
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Danny Z has posted all the part numbers more than a few times, have you looked for them?
Shame about it having been 75% of the way there recently and not doing the job.
Bryan you should def do the VANOS while its apart, unless that was part of the last partial job.
Also water pump thermostat valley pan etc. etc. unless they were done before (they would not have had to come off during the UTC job ... but for this job they will... well not the VP but the water pump / t-stat stuff is now all coming off anyway...)
Also: Use the G.A.S. tools, they are excellent. You can buy or rent.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I was unaware they were rentable... this is great news I had almost sprung on a 112k m62tub44 close to my house for 400$ quite a bit less mileage than my car and I could do most the work outside of the car before putting it in. I am still up in the air on that decision since guides etc would cost me another 500-900 on top of the motor and then vanos rebuilds as well
ughhh why do i love this car so much :P
Last edited by zarboz; 02-21-2019 at 09:51 AM.
Yep.
And if you do THAT you'd need to re-buy all the other gaskets that are shite on the used motor vs reusing your 'new' ones, so add more bux for that.
And then you truly do have a motor-swap adventure/labor to pull off (get a hoist, etc. etc.), which is a LOT more work than just doing timing guides in the car.
And its not like "you can drive your car in the meantime" which is the most compelling argument for doing that for other guys. If your car was a good DD right now taht solution would look more attractive.
On other hand, if you do that you'll have (your old) full spare motor lying around either for parts or in case of some other catastrophic issue.
Could see an argument either way. But I'd prob lean just fixing your car.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
the only thing pushing me in the direction of buying the used motor is a 1993 535i sitting near my house that is begging to have some fun and I feel like maybe if I donate the old v8 to her and put it on aftermarket ECU it could be a really really fun car to sport with. I do daily my 540i right now but I have a blazer as a backup car so if the bmw is down for a month its not detrimental to my reality
$400 for an M62TU at that mileage is a steal. Most of them I've seen for sale have cost nearly double that for way more miles.
But GG is right, to overhaul that motor with all new gaskets/seals/etc you're looking at about $1500-$2000 in parts on top of the motor price.
Update after some trading of work and haggling I have ended up with a 96,2XX mile m62tu for no money investment. Will still post teardown pics of the old motor
Does anyone know if i can re use my clutch from the broken motor / transmission or will I have to replace when swapping
Yeah you can reuse the clutch. I’d only do that it it’s nearly new though.
First start was fine let it idle for about 45 min or so then threw a p0021 code -_-
going to redo timing and replace solenoid :\
Last edited by zarboz; 03-23-2019 at 11:32 PM.
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