BMW E39 M62TUB44 130 TPS control error code, no gas pedal reaction

[Maleckis]

Hello guys

I've posted that problem in General Mechanical Help but I also would like to try here. I have a problem with my BMW E39 M62TUB44. The engine runs very well except for one thing. You could drive the car for a 200 miles trip and nothing bad happens, drives smoothly as a normal car. However, you just put the gas pedal down to floor (WOT) and immediately (after 1-2 seconds) Engine safe mode program appears. There is no gas pedal reaction then. Engine gets rough idle, bumping from 500 to 1500. You can turn the engine off, start again and works normal again until next WOT. INPA shows only 1 error code - 130 Throttle Valve Position Control . I tried another throttle body, tried deleting adaptations and there is no results. I read that people had problems with thermostat heater plug, but mine is OK, also all 30amp fuses in ebox are ok. Could you point me what to check next?

Thank you and best regards

[JimLev]

I use to have that same random Engine Failsafe for years. It would happen maybe every 6-9 months, shut the engine off, restart it and it was fine. Then it was happening every 2 weeks, then 2-3 times a day. The CEL was for the pedal pot/throttle body.
I replaced the pedal pot as well as the throttle body. Didn't fix the problem.
In a last ditch effort I replaced the connectors and the wiring on the throttle body, the MAF, and the dual temp sensor.
All of those cables were cracked, didn't see any shorts, and all ohmed out good all the way back to the DME.
I doubt the MAF or temp sensor had anything to do with it, only replaced those wires cuz they looked bad.
After replacing the wires 18+ months ago it's been fine.

[Chedley]

Try to clean up your throttle body and throttle electric wires with carb cleaner, and let it dry.

[Kenny1958]

This exactly the same as I was suffering with a little while ago.
I changed my MAF and checked wiring, it's not happened in a while but I know it's gonna come back.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[geargrinder]

Hello guys

I've posted that problem in General Mechanical Help but I also would like to try here. I have a problem with my BMW E39 M62TUB44. The engine runs very well except for one thing. You could drive the car for a 200 miles trip and nothing bad happens, drives smoothly as a normal car. However, you just put the gas pedal down to floor (WOT) and immediately (after 1-2 seconds) Engine safe mode program appears. There is no gas pedal reaction then. Engine gets rough idle, bumping from 500 to 1500. You can turn the engine off, start again and works normal again until next WOT. INPA shows only 1 error code - 130 Throttle Valve Position Control . I tried another throttle body, tried deleting adaptations and there is no results. I read that people had problems with thermostat heater plug, but mine is OK, also all 30amp fuses in ebox are ok. Could you point me what to check next?

Thank you and best regards

Definitely nothing related to thermostat.

It is 99% for sure either 1. the throttle body itself, or, 2. the wiring as Jim says.

Probably not the pedal itself as that tends to be different error.

If it reproduce-ably only happens on WOT then I'd have to say almost for sure the TB itself.

You can try this though: Take the intake tube off, and work the throttle plate back and forth by hand full open/close a number of times (engine off of course!).

What you're trying to do is scrub away any dust or contamination that is on the internal electronic tracks. Dont bother spraying anything around there its not going to do anything, this isn't about something getting sticky on the mechanical bits.

Put it back together and see if that fixes it.

Well actually, put it back together, then clear adaptations, then reset throttle adaptations (no computer action needed - turn key off all the way, then turn key to run without starting and leave it there for about a minute... the throttle then should be adapted) and then​ start it and see if it fixes it.

If that works, then it probably will be a temporary fix, but very likely eventually it will happen again and sooner or later it will happen more and more until you replace the throttle body. But the hand-movement trick is a good one to know because it will usually get you started if you are stuck on the side of the road with FAILSAFE from the throttle body.

EDIT: OOPS - I just saw you tried another throttle body. Sorry! Yeah in that case what Jim said. Go over the throttle body wiring with a fine tooth comb. I'm leaving the rest up there because its a useful trick to know about but if you already swapped TB's and the same exact thing happens then its got to be something else.

[geargrinder]

By the way in the ECU there are parameters for throttle body 'plausibility'... one could edit a tune to make the computer less sensitive to minor throttle body issues.

Naturally you wouldn't want to blow them away because you don't want the car to go full WOT and through a bunch of pedestrians because it doesn't know what position the throttle is in, but honestly the factory setting is super fussy as we all have found out. It might be something I look into fiddling with. The computer STILL looks at RPM so its not like it can really do that (run down pedestrians on a runaway condition), it'll shut down if the RPM's aren't responding to throttle inputs properly anyway but you could make this "compare track 1 and track 2 in the throttle body and if they aren't the same: FAILSAFE!!!!" routine be just a little more tolerant of some aging and contamination in the TB or the wires...

[Chedley]

This exactly the same as I was suffering with a little while ago.
I changed my MAF and checked wiring, it's not happened in a while but I know it's gonna come back.
….

Clean up the electric wiring to the throttle body : douse itwith carb cleaner (CRC) to dissolve any gum , then blow it with a hair dryer seton high. Clean up the throttle body plates especially the back of the plates, whileyou are there.
Then reset the adaptations (engine off, key to position 2,wait 31 seconds, remove key), and test again.

[geargrinder]

Like I said. It’s not the “gum”. It ain’t a carb with an accelerator pump. You can do that if it makes you feel better. Won’t do sh1t tho. That AIN’T the problem.

Cleaning the wiring is fine though.

[JimLev]

^__Yup. Throttle body was changed, ain't that. I doubt anybody in their right mind would put a dirty TB on their engine.
Wiring is what needs to be looked at, maybe replaced.

[Maleckis]

Of course, the 2nd throttle body was cleaned before assembly. I've replaced the throttle body plug. The plug is completely new now. I've checked all wirings from ECU to throttle body and all of them had 0 ohm of resistance measured from the ECU end to the throttle body plug end. Wires looks good. Do you think that the problem might be caused by the ECU?

[geargrinder]

Unlikely but not impossible.

But when you tested wires did you also check resistance to ground for each one?
And then resistance between individual strands?

You could get perfect ECU continuity but then find 3 and 4 have some 70ohm connection because there's some bad insulation cracks or whatever.

[JimLev]

Of course, the 2nd throttle body was cleaned before assembly. I've replaced the throttle body plug. The plug is completely new now. I've checked all wirings from ECU to throttle body and all of them had 0 ohm of resistance measured from the ECU end to the throttle body.

I did all that too, everything checked out good but I was still getting engine Failsafe Program.
After I changed the wires the problem was gone.

[geargrinder]

I did all that too, everything checked out good but I was still getting engine Failsafe Program.
After I changed the wires the problem was gone.

Yep. Like I said - individual wire continuity is only 1 way the wires can go bad... Seen same thing on M5x cars with bad wiring harnesses by the way... harness tests perfect, many parts replaced, yet, only gets fixed magically when the harness is replaced.