I was looking at a 325i sedan late 80s with high miles over 200k that needed a head gasket/ head , car in good shape never been beaten , still start and run , but not been driven due to issue . It mixed oil and coolant. Is it worth the effort or keep on looking?
Thanks
If you can do it yourself - offer a Grand and if they don't take it walk away.. Most likely they will call you a day or two later.
If you aren't mechanically inclined - Id walk away.
Yes, but chances are a running 2k e30 would still be due for some gaskets and a valve job
If the body is clean and straight otherwise he could have a nice e30 with a sorted out motor in the 3k range. Again this is all contingent on this car being in far better condition than the first one that he was looking to buy
Last edited by msservices; 02-16-2019 at 12:21 PM.
I wouldn't think you would need a new one - just have it machined at your local machine shop - new valve guides is recommended - they can check the valves for you.
A different head would have to be sourced from a salvage yard.
If you have the wherewithal - https://bimmerheads.com/
Im not seeing too many coupes in that range around the midwest - unless they are off to the yard (or about to be). I see a bunch that are overpriced.. The ones I see are pretty rough.
Granted deals come up - but they go quickly. Timing and location is apart of the value proposition.
Pictures would help, as would the number of pedals
I called a few local shops , they are out of there minds , Estimating $1200 to $ 2500 to rebuild the head.
car stick shift four doors.
body clean not beaten like the other one.
only god knows what is gonna be involved when u open that engine ,
Worst case scenario a new engine .
Last edited by corban; 02-16-2019 at 05:17 PM.
A used running engine should not be that hard to find, and there is no guarantee that you would need any more than a head gasket just to get it running
Last edited by msservices; 02-16-2019 at 05:25 PM.
I won’t trust buying a used engine unless I hear it running , to big of a job to risk it with a used unknown one .
As I said I won’t be able to tell with out taking that head off to see what’s going on .
i like to get a coupe but this one clean for age .
- - - Updated - - -
[QUOTE
Last edited by corban; 02-16-2019 at 06:14 PM.
First - $1200 - $2500 - something is not being communicated properly - Please post name and city of shop.
If you look at the link I sent - Bimmerheads will sell you one for $1500 rebuilt to perfect touring spec - https://bimmerheads.com/collections/...-cylinder-head. This is a Stage 1 cylinder head - well under $2500 - so something is really amiss
You just need the head checked against warpage and if warped - planed with new valve guides - this shouldn't cost much more than $300
Second - These engines are easy - easy to work on - and reliable.
Opening up this engine is super simple and most likely you just need to have the head resurfaced.
See this thread of mine: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...and-a-Heineken
I will say - however, if you are having this much doubt and are having trouble getting a reasonable quote on a head job. it may be a sign..
- - - Updated - - -
Looking at the LINK - You $300 back once you send them the core .. So not even $1500... $1200 + shipping....
thanks for the info .
trust me no miscommunication with the shop I called, he quoted me a crazy number.
i use to see them fully rebuilt for like $800 plus ur core.
i am able to handle the job , no problem, been around these cars , I found few shops if I ship to them the head they will go thru it from A to Z for half the local shops price , like Odessa cylinder heads.
i saw few used ones not oem like amc which I know nothing about , saw also few used engines.
If I decided to buy it is to remove the head and see what’s going on , at least I know they are still available.
just don’t wanna take the chance doing it twice .
at high miles over 200k plus u think the block still ok ? That’s my concern .
car not been beaten or raced.
great write up u got me excited to go for it
thanks again
Last edited by corban; 02-17-2019 at 10:30 AM.
If the 1.5-2k includes labor to remove replace the head and the headwork i dont see whats unreasonable. A great many things come off to remove the head including many parts that you do not reuse such as timing belt, exhaust lock nuts, possibly head bolts, etc etc.
That said I agree: it prob doesnt need a full head rebuild just a gasket or maybe a skim of the head. If the later i would guess the rockers n cam need to come out for the machine work.
The body is the part that is not fixable for a reasonable sum. I would go for it if it were me looking.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sorry you say you're mechanically inclined - then what seems to be the doubt. Someone has already told you the correct price to offer. The seller surely knows that this is the genuine price, which is why they will call you back in 2 two days after initially rejecting the offer. In fact I would offer $800 - new valve guides, and you might have to redo the piston rings and conrod bearings. Not a show stopper, costs a little more, but ultimately you have an engine that is worth it. This is if you intend to keep the car for the long term. If not, get a spare M20 engine. Insist on doing a compression test at the yard if it looks suspect.
This car is yours mate - go take it !
Oh yes. It is coming to me now. You need to know how to handle the situation if the exhaust bolts snap off in the head, or otherwise can't be removed. This is a real risk. on that M20 engine.
Right
the head exhaust bolts is a scary situation for sure , I got an oxygen/acetylene I can use to heat treat them carefully, I can soak them with pb blast as well after I remove head and exhaust manifold one piece .
in case they snap , can’t a machine shop remove them ?
I suppose I'd like to see pics of the car and know more about int/ext. If its very nice paint and interior, that would easily command the asking price - at least I would not blink before paying it. A nice clean rust free, crack free interior is a wonderful blank canvas for the swap or rebuild of your choice. The market has moved significantly on these, I see very dodgy/needy cars with asks in the 6-10k range all day long. I'd rather have a car with a known problem at a good price than overpay for someone's tired, usually modified, beat on ride.
Couldn’t come to a deal on this one .
there will be another
What did he want for it ?
200k isn't high miles. the newest e30s are going to be 30 years old here pretty quickly so most cars will start showing up as having 300k miles, or really close.
I sold my cars at over 300k 10 to 12 years ago. they ran awesome. I would still have driven them across the united states. both of my kids now have e30s and who knows how many miles they have but my oldest drives his across texas, a few times a year. its 4 hours to Houston, 2.5 to mid san Antonio, 3 to Brownsville, and 4 hours to my parent's house. those are the close cities to us.
its more the transmissions having troubles now that seem to cause us troubles. both standard trans grind in different gears. neither are autos so no idea there but my auto 325e I just sold didn't like reverse and it had an unknown amount of miles as an 86, but I imagine at least 330k since it is 33 years old, and that is probably as conservative number as most people drive more than 10k a year.
No e30s again.
The problem car mixed oil and coolant bad , oil like gel a mixture of oil and coolant I think engine is gone .as this mixture been in the engine for a while now so rust must’v ruined that engine .
Last edited by corban; 02-27-2019 at 08:32 PM.
Bookmarks