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Thread: How does immobilizer works? No crank-no start.

  1. #26
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    Borrowed a scanner, no errors...

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  2. #27
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    If you crank it do the ews errors come back?
    Google translated

    Key invalid because of incorrect identification. How many keys do you have?
    Last edited by purplecty; 03-16-2019 at 12:21 AM.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    If you crank it do the ews errors come back?
    Google translated

    Key invalid because of incorrect identification. How many keys do you have?
    It does not crank. I have 2 keys, one original and bought a new one from the dealer. I initialized it so I could open the car. Tried both keys, nothing. No crank, no start, no signal to fuel pump....

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  4. #29
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    As I recall, an initialized correct key must be on position-2 while doing this procedure.
    You may need to reinitialize your keys.

    Also, you did recharge the battery, right ?!
    Last edited by Chedley; 03-16-2019 at 05:33 AM.

  5. #30
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    Read the DME errors and post back. I am Pretty sure your EWS is bad...
    Last edited by purplecty; 03-16-2019 at 08:07 AM.

  6. #31
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    For effbombs sake, for the 1000th time... remote initialization has nothing to do with starting the car.

    Put that new dealer key in the ignition.
    Connect INPA again.
    Open the EWS again.

    Posting the errors is only 1/2 of what you were there for. Maybe less.

    Go to the "Internal" and "Act Key" pages and see what they say.

    THOSE ARE THE CRITICAL FIRST IMPORTANT THINGS TO LOOK AT FOR A NO CRANK.

    Those pages are the entire reason you wanted to have INPA hooked up in the first place.

    I think above I mistakenly said "Digital Status" instead of "Internal" - OK sorry if I can't always remember the exact text for every single module menu... but as you can see in the screencap from a month ago, its obv "Internal State" on the EWS...
    At any rate F1-F3 are the keys that let you see what the EWS is "seeing" and whether it is blocking starter.

    Look at those pages and then post back here.
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  7. #32
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    GG is correct! Just because the car locks and unlocks does not mean the car will start as they are totally seperate functionalities. In my experience when the EWS cannot recognize the key and it stores an invalid key error (especially a brand new dealer key) The EWS is usually at fault here. The DME usually has an "EWS Interface" fault stored...
    Last edited by purplecty; 03-16-2019 at 08:49 AM.

  8. #33
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    True - I'm reading OP as saying he's not getting EWS errors anymore after clearing, but if thats not the case and they keep coming back after clearing and using a new dealer key... then indeed something w/ EWS (or bestcase scenario - just the ring antenna?) is the direction.

    But - short of having seen the Internal page - also could be something as simple as the EWS having a bad park/neutral signal... which will show up very clearly there.

    But reading those 2 pages (Internal and Key) are critical before jumping off any further...
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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    For effbombs sake, for the 1000th time... remote initialization has nothing to do with starting the car.

    Put that new dealer key in the ignition.
    Connect INPA again.
    Open the EWS again.

    Posting the errors is only 1/2 of what you were there for. Maybe less.

    Go to the "Internal" and "Act Key" pages and see what they say.

    THOSE ARE THE CRITICAL FIRST IMPORTANT THINGS TO LOOK AT FOR A NO CRANK.

    Those pages are the entire reason you wanted to have INPA hooked up in the first place.

    I think above I mistakenly said "Digital Status" instead of "Internal" - OK sorry if I can't always remember the exact text for every single module menu... but as you can see in the screencap from a month ago, its obv "Internal State" on the EWS...
    At any rate F1-F3 are the keys that let you see what the EWS is "seeing" and whether it is blocking starter.

    Look at those pages and then post back here.
    That is the thing, I don't get a EWS menu. I can read and clear codes. There were those 3 codes, cleared and didn't come back.

    Open the EWS again.

    Posting the errors is only 1/2 of what you were there for. Maybe less.

    Go to the "Internal" and "Act Key" pages and see what they say.

    THOSE ARE THE CRITICAL FIRST IMPORTANT THINGS TO LOOK AT FOR A NO CRANK.

    Using the shop scanner, it opened EWS, no codes stored. On another menu was a list with possible scenarios: starter lock, stsrter interrupt, ews lock, etc. But none were highlighted....



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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonkers320is View Post
    Go to Body, scroll to EWS, doubke click and get a version do not match and sends me back to menu screen.
    Hit F4....
    ^^^ Here. Do Body/EWS/ BEFORE YOU HIT F4 and read errors...

    What does that screen say? POST the screen that you have right there.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    1999 Cherokee Sport 4L (trailer-hitched in-law-loaner bomber)


    Former:

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  11. #36
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    watching this with interest as I too have a similar issue....

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverdadd View Post
    watching this with interest as I too have a similar issue....
    just posted in your thread... yours is very different (crank-no-start, with ECU error on the EWS) which is why I always take a steaming crap on "I HAVE THIS SAME ISSUE TOO!!!!" posts...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    ^^^ Here. Do Body/EWS/ BEFORE YOU HIT F4 and read errors...

    What does that screen say? POST the screen that you have right there.
    Did body/ews

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  14. #39
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    F4 error, read.

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  15. #40
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    More. Those are all screens I get

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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonkers320is View Post
    More. Those are all screens I get

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    The last one image is f4

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  17. #42
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    Ok so they key is not showing as invalid anymore according to your pics. Can you post the DME errors?

  18. #43
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    Reading internal status, F1, F2, F3, F4 (ERROR.ECU.REJECTED) all key data, reading, sending etc. Clutch switch on/off works.
    Hope from that code ECU didn't take a dump.

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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    Ok so they key is not showing as invalid anymore according to your pics. Can you post the DME errors?
    There are no errors.

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  20. #45
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    Shows no errors, only that ews error....

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  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonkers320is View Post
    Shows no errors, only that ews error....

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    Im talking engine computer not EWS now. So there is not 1 error in the engine computer?

  22. #47
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    DUDE that is the screen i have been telling you to go to for a month.

    It is right there clear as day. "Starter switched off due to.... P/N / USA-clutch switch".

    Why did you keep babbling on about "I dont get anything but this error screen and it kicks me out"!? Its right there. SMH SMH SMH.

    This is a 5-speed, right?

    Your car won't turn the starter because of an issue with the clutch switch.

    Get under there and look at the clutch switch. There will be two.

    You need the one that is at the BOTTOM of the clutch throw - aka that clicks when the clutch is on the floor. You can actually code it out with NCSExpert but might be just as easy/fast to get under there and find what the problem is. Might be just jiggling the switch will make it work again. BTDT.

    Now. Once you fix THAT if it cranks but does'nt start and still shows up ECU errors that's a different story. After all the failed attempts to start the car maybe the EWS sync is now out of whack - you can try to resync in the DME page AFTER you get it crnaking, but...

    One thing at a time.

    Get it to crank and get that black button on that page to disappear first.

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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    DUDE that is the screen i have been telling you to go to for a month.

    It is right there clear as day. "Starter switched off due to.... P/N / USA-clutch switch".

    Why did you keep babbling on about "I dont get anything but this error screen and it kicks me out"!? Its right there. SMH SMH SMH.

    This is a 5-speed, right?

    Your car won't turn the starter because of an issue with the clutch switch.

    Get under there and look at the clutch switch. There will be two.

    You need the one that is at the BOTTOM of the clutch throw - aka that clicks when the clutch is on the floor. You can actually code it out with NCSExpert but might be just as easy/fast to get under there and find what the problem is. Might be just jiggling the switch will make it work again. BTDT.

    Now. Once you fix THAT if it cranks but does'nt start and still shows up ECU errors that's a different story. After all the failed attempts to start the car maybe the EWS sync is now out of whack - you can try to resync in the DME page AFTER you get it crnaking, but...

    One thing at a time.

    Get it to crank and get that black button on that page to disappear first.

    Only yesterday I could get to that screen....

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  24. #49
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    This pic says it all... Shouldn't it have the gears on the cluster?

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    This pic says it all... Shouldn't it have the gears on the cluster?
    Its a 5 speed. I replaced this switch, when i press the clutch the black dot goes away. Didn't know there is another switch....

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