Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 36

Thread: 03 e39 head gasket?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    2003 530i, 2014 320i

    03 e39 head gasket?

    Pulling apart the top end of my engine to repair head gasket. Looking for any common cautions?

    Should I replace any/ all the sensors will it’s easy access?

    Anything else I should replace bad or not while it’s apart?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,655
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    moved to E39 forum
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    820
    My Cars
    00 M5 | 03 540i | 94 NSX
    It would be a good idea to have a machine shop check the head for flatness.

    Depending on mileage, a valve job and valve stem seals might be a good idea.

    Replace every gasket, seal, and O-ring you can get to.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    11,537
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 540i 6 speed
    When removing the head bolts (not reusable), the threads sometimes come out of the block, necessitating thread inserts. There is a superior solution to Heli-coils.

    The block s/b tested for flatness, too. Has the engine overheated?


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,154
    My Cars
    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    I have pulled apart 6-7. M54 engines after an overheat. About 60% of the time, the head needed more than 12 thousandths to make it flat and was therefore uneconomic to reuse. Checking block is a good idea, but most of the time it is still pretty flat.

    +1 on time-serfs. I and others rent the time-sert and vanos timing tools.

    Change the hard hard coolant pipes under the manifold along with all gaskets

  6. #6
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    AndoverRockport MA & Intl
    Posts
    14,856
    My Cars
    E46M3Cic E39.540iT E84X1
    +3 on time-serts
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Middle of a corn field
    Posts
    14,770
    My Cars
    E39 hamster/ruberbandPWR
    Pictures of DIY ?

    Great info Effduration btw !

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    2003 530i, 2014 320i
    Yes all gaskets of course. Anyone use the 1mm head gasket? Thinking it’s a safer bet being used and abused at some point.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I do not know how to post pics yet

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    La Habra, CA
    Posts
    1,117
    My Cars
    2002 525i
    I second the post about checking block for flatness. I got my E39 cheaply, with just a "simple" blown head gasket. Just put an new one in and drive it, the guy said. The wife barely overheated it and stopped the minute it went into the red, the guy said. Turned out she overheated the bejesus out of it. Not only was the head warped beyond repair, but the block was almost U shaped, and warped beyond repair. MLS head gaskets don't play well with surfaces that aren't really flat. You don't want to do this job twice.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,154
    My Cars
    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas.Tambou View Post
    Yes all gaskets of course. Anyone use the 1mm head gasket? Thinking it’s a safer bet being used and abused at some point.
    two choices of gasket 0.70mm an 1.00mm

    maximum material which can be removed = 12 thousandths of an inch

    I would only use the thicker gasket if the machine shopped removed 7 thousandths of an inch or more.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    DE, USA
    Posts
    1,044
    My Cars
    '15 435i,'10 535i,'08 X5
    Why did head gasket fail? Overheat?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    2003 530i, 2014 320i
    Yeah. I mean I have everything but the head bolts out. Should I stop and run some sort of test?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,154
    My Cars
    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    You started this thread saying you were going to replace head gasket. I assume you have determined that you do indeed need a new head gasket. So, No, no testing to be done. I would take the vanos gears off, take the cams and trays w/ lifters out, take the head bolts out and bring the head to the machine shop to be inspected and machined flat. Then decide which head gasket to use.

  14. #14
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    AndoverRockport MA & Intl
    Posts
    14,856
    My Cars
    E46M3Cic E39.540iT E84X1
    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas.Tambou View Post
    Yeah. I mean I have everything but the head bolts out. Should I stop and run some sort of test?
    Yes, you should perform a financial stress-test on your bank account.
    And if you're married you might want to run a relationship stress test on that as well.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,127
    My Cars
    97 528, 95 525, 03 525
    Don't bother. Buy used engine with warranty. Check out Quarry Motors in Florida.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,154
    My Cars
    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    Quote Originally Posted by Sleepyhead97 View Post
    Don't bother. Buy used engine with warranty. Check out Quarry Motors in Florida.
    +1 on this, This is definitely less work, has less of a chance of failure, and is usually the same all-in cost or less. A used engine with warranty is fine, probably $800-$1,100, but another option is to buy a running parts car (530i, 330i, x3, x5, Z3, etc.), do a compression test on the engine, swap it in and part out the rest. Net cost could be 0-$500.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Tempe, AZ
    Posts
    7,658
    My Cars
    1995 525i/5
    I’ve always just replaced the engine if the head gasket was blown, at least with the all-aluminum M54. They warp very easily and their head bolt threads strip out very easily so to me it’s not worth the liability (as a shop) to try and fix it, it’s easier to just source a nice low mileage engine with a warranty. LKQ has tons of M54’s available and their shipping costs aren’t bad at all. It often ends up being cheaper to do that, compared to the labor of removing the head, having it checked/planed by a machine shop, and then putting it all back together.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    2003 530i, 2014 320i
    So it’s my personal vehicle not for a shop, in my garage. I do have a little time so I am not rushing it. So I’m going to pull it apart check how bad it warped and decide. Yes I totally agree on machining everything and rebuilding it all. But I’m going to through the eldring .7 head gasket on and see what happens. if I get lucky and it’s makes it a year I’ll be happy. Totalled our x5😭😭 so now instead of a project car I need it for a year max. If I don’t get lucky then she’ll be getting a really nice engine and the project car becomes a reality. far as work goes I’m less than 3 hours into the total project. I’ve pulled the hood, whole intake, throttle body, fuel rails and injectors, sensor harness, fan, Vanos, thermostat and radiator. It’s fun seeing how great cars are built all together. This is my first build on a bmw so I’m trying not to stress and enjoy it. I’m thinking yeah anyone can buy an m5 but I love the 530i and putting your own touch is an awesome feeling.

    Thanks for all the heads up. If I could figure out pics I would post them

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ohhh CCV delete and install catch can? Good or bad idea.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,154
    My Cars
    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    There are different opinions, but I suggest you replace the CCV. They're actually pretty cheap (buy the OEM winter version with foam cover for best price), and work properly when kept clear.

    Since you already have the intake off, replacing the CCV is easy.

  20. #20
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    AndoverRockport MA & Intl
    Posts
    14,856
    My Cars
    E46M3Cic E39.540iT E84X1
    Quote Originally Posted by effduration View Post
    There are different opinions, but I suggest you replace the CCV. They're actually pretty cheap (buy the OEM winter version with foam cover for best price), and work properly when kept clear.

    Since you already have the intake off, replacing the CCV is easy.
    Not an expert on the subject of M54CCV, but as an observer I'd agree.

    The CCV cold weather thing is one of those issues where there's a passionate true-believer subsegment of 'victims' who have a jihadi-conviction that:
    1. It happens to ALL ENGINES used in cold weather
    2. The factory part NEVER WORKS / ALWAYS FAILS
    3. CCV delete is ALWAYS the best solution and everybody should do it

    In reality there are thousands and thousands of these engines running around with the factory parts in cold weather running fine. In reality the CCV replacement if and when it fails is not that hard.

    Don't get me wrong, i'm not saying the CCV delete is terrible or anything. Its just not true that "you MUST do that or your car will always for sure run like crap in winter" like some dudes try to declare.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  21. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    2003 530i, 2014 320i
    Very true not to hard to replace, I think it’s just one of those annoying issues to deal with for now. Yes I will be replace any tubing I see probably. If I get good pressure back in the system after finding all these broken plastic and cracked hoses, then that one I do not replace we know will be sure to bust next.

    Is it easy enough to post pics?

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,127
    My Cars
    97 528, 95 525, 03 525
    Regards to ccv, I would leave it stock. You are on illinois, catch can might freeze.

    If you are burning oil like m54 usually do, the"O2 Pilot Mod" works. I think that is a better solution than catch can.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    La Habra, CA
    Posts
    1,117
    My Cars
    2002 525i
    You probably already know, but get an inexpensive machinist's straightedge (Amazon is a good source) and a set of feeler gauges. Check the block and if it's even slightly warped, abandon it.

    IF the head can be salvaged, you'll want to compare the prices of having the machine shop mill it, do a valve job, etc., vs. the price of a full reconditioned head, vs. the price of a complete used engine.

    I found the prices of a good engine from LKQ to be very competitive with the cost of a head alone. It's a lot more work to swap out the entire engine, obviously, but, if your block is warped, it's way cheaper than the machine work to fix the old one.

    Living in SoCal, I can't comment on the CCV and cold weather problems...

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    2003 530i, 2014 320i
    Appreciate all the info.....thank you!

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    958
    My Cars
    2003 BMW 530i
    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    ...
    In reality there are thousands and thousands of these engines running around with the factory parts in cold weather running fine. In reality the CCV replacement if and when it fails is not that hard.

    Don't get me wrong, i'm not saying the CCV delete is terrible or anything. Its just not true that "you MUST do that or your car will always for sure run like crap in winter" like some dudes try to declare.
    +1 to that.
    I replaced my CCV with the BMW cold weather version, including the new style dipstick tube, 8 years and 115k miles ago. The car was 9 years old with 80k miles at the time, with the "regular" CCV. Winter temperatures for me are mostly between 10F to 32F with extremes down to -20F. The cold weather CCV is still operating correctly and the engine starts and behaves well in cold weather. There are no stumbles or rough running at startup even in the coldest temperatures. And no excessive oil consumption.

    In my case, the failure mode was the heavy lead from the alternator running toward the starter touching and fretting through one of the CCV hoses, which made for a massive vacuum leak. So Nicholas, I'd check that routing when you put things back together.

    So far as I could tell, the original CCV was still working properly otherwise - crankcase vacuum was a bit high @ 8" w.c. a few months earlier & oil consumption was good (in spite of a leaking OFH gasket). The engine started and ran smoothly through the only winter I had it preceding the failure. There was sludge in the hose from CCV valve to dipstick tube drain, but also signs that the previous owner hadn't wasted any money on good oil or even timely oil changes. I replaced the entire CCV with the cold weather version because of all the horror stories I'd read. In hindsight, I probably wasted my money, at least at the time. I'd imagine that it's likely that the original CCV would have gone brittle with heat and age between then and now.

    EDIT: I would though go for the cold weather version if renewing the CCV anyway - in a cold weather region. It's ~25% more on a not terribly expensive kit of parts that should last a decade or so. To me at least, worth it for a little extra peace of mind.
    Last edited by rdl; 02-20-2019 at 12:35 PM.
    Regards
    RDL

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Rent me your tools * E39 Head gasket
    By jmalin72207 in forum 1996 - 2003 (E39)
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-22-2010, 10:21 AM
  2. E39 head gasket replacement
    By pepin in forum 1996 - 2003 (E39)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-20-2009, 09:40 AM
  3. E39 head gasket
    By GeeKdupE39 in forum 1996 - 2003 (E39)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-16-2009, 02:21 PM
  4. e39 head gasket replacement
    By steyr556 in forum 1996 - 2003 (E39)
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 06-29-2009, 05:21 PM
  5. E39 head gasket
    By pepin in forum 1996 - 2003 (E39)
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-29-2008, 08:16 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •