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Thread: 3 stage manifold swap, oil?, disa?

  1. #1
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    3 stage manifold swap, oil?, disa?

    Ok I belive I attaches a couple pics, on my phone and new to the forum, so I'm trying best here.
    Im doing the 3 stage manifold swap on my 06 z4 3.0i.
    I bought the manifold and im just inpecting it for any issues. The disas look good, no play at all, no missing rubber. But they are stuck open, from what I've read that's normal. Can anyone confirm that?
    Also, there is a film of oil throughout this manifold. Is that normal? I dont think it is, but idk for sure. Is it ok to leave, clean out moderately, or should I soap and water this thing til perfect? If the pictures took, they show the throttle body off the donor manifold with oil film and a section wiped clean. And they show the small disa wiped clean and the large one still oil covered.
    Thanks for any guidance!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    I should add, I initially planned to replace the small disa no matter its condition, because it is hard to get to if needed to be replaced later. But I dont know now, ive been reading and seems these last a good while and failures seem to be sporadic. No regular failure mileage. So I may leave them both in the intake. Any thoughts on that?

  3. #3
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    As long as it's just a thin layer, the oil is not an issue. But you should still clean it while it's off. You can use a mix of water and dishwashing solution and/or a maf cleaner. Basically something that removes grease. Obviously, no sensors or electric wires should remain attached when you clean it...
    The disa: see that little hole on top of it in your pic? Close the disa with one hand, and while holding it closed, put a finger on that little hole and release the flap. It should say at least partly closed (2/3rds or something like that).
    I couldn't tell about leaving both disas on because my car only has one.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  4. #4
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    I actually couldnt open them by hand. I twisted as much as I felt comfortable with given they are plastic, and old.
    I apologize if im wrong, but i think mine are completely electric. And the test you are describing sounds somewhat vacuum related. Either way, im not comfortable twisting these things any harder.
    Ill check again though tomorrow to see if that hole has any function. From memory it was just a hole for the pivot pin. Ill check though

  5. #5
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    You should definitely not open them. Pour the cleaning solution through one of the openings, shake it a bit, rinse, repeat and then let it dry. If you want it to dry immediately use a MAF cleaning product or white spirit.
    Again, that implies no sensor or wire remains attached.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  6. #6
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    I shouldnt have said "open", i was talking about the disas. Shouldve said "close".
    But i might know what your talking about, the manifold appears to have lines that may make someone think it splits open. I gotcha, definitely not gonna open that .
    And I will follow this up just in case anyone else ever wants to test these n52 disas. I just had a face palm moment. I can just plug them into my car. My car still has the stock manifold on it. I can just plug them in and watch, maybe with someone else turning the key for me. I just read they close at startup and idle. And return to open when engine off.
    So yeah, a face palm moment. Ill follow up when i can, should be an easy test if you have a single stage manifold

  7. #7
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    What I meant is you can test them without even putting them on the manifold, at least for the "hydraulic" part, for lack of better words. I have put red circles on the little holes you're supposed to close with your finger. I'm not sure the test is going to work as you say, because when they're operating on the car, there is vacuum involved. To "simulate" this vacuum, proceed as follows:

    - with "hand 1", close the flap/door and hold it there
    - with "hand 2", close the little hole shown inside the red circle with your index and hold it there
    - release the flap that you've been holding with hand 1 while keeping the little hole closed: the flap should NOT reopen all the way; if it reopens about one third of the way, it's fine. If it reopens fully, it means it's broken.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  8. #8
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    I follow you. But the ones on my n52 manifold are electric. They dont work on vacuum.
    I would love to bench test these, but I can't move the flap by hand. That hole on my valves is just the pivit pin hole.
    Are the valves you have done this with before for n52 engines. I think there are different kinds. Thanks though

  9. #9
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    I would love to bench test these, but I can't move the flap by hand. That hole on my valves is just the pivot pin hole.
    Are the valves you have done this with before for n52 engines? I know there are different kinds. Mine are all electric, no vacuum involves

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh my phone is not forum friendly

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sickwayne77 View Post
    I would love to bench test these, but I can't move the flap by hand. That hole on my valves is just the pivot pin hole.
    Are the valves you have done this with before for n52 engines? I know there are different kinds. Mine are all electric, no vacuum involves

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh my phone is not forum friendly
    No worries about the phone. I've done it on M52TU. Although they're electric as well, there is the exact same hole as the one I circled in red on the pic and air/vaccum are involved in this system as well and they have to be, since the whole point of the DISA, to put it simply, is to manage the airflow inside the intake manifold.

    More details here: https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/7336...s-replacement/

    But if you can't move it on the N52's model I guess they're designed differently or there is an issue somewhere...
    Last edited by Breeze1; 02-14-2019 at 04:33 AM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  11. #11
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    Plugged them up to my 3.0i, single stage intake engine, they close tight at idle.
    So these remain open when engine off, open with key on, close at engine idle, reopen at engine off.
    They closed tight too, so that's good.
    The fact they closed at idle seemed odd to me, just not what i expected them to do, but that's just how they operate I suppose. And my dme has not been flashed for these, I am just checking their condition while putting together a parts list to order for the swap.
    So to recap, if your disas are electric, you may have to just plug them up to your car to test them. Mine feel sturdy, no backlash when open or closed. But mine also could not be closed by hand, that may or may not be true of all electric valves.

  12. #12
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    For some reason the link I shared now gets to some "vigilink" page so I couldn't double check, bit if closed DISA equals long runners, it makes sense to me since at idle and low revs/low loads the engine rotates slowly and doesn't need that much fuel i.e. air, so the air doesn't need to take the shorest path to the cylinder. And long runners favor torque = off the line drivability.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

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