ISO anyone local who wants to help me out. I'm an at home mechanic, and I basically give up. I've thrown in the towel. I've tried 2 new afm's, installed coil, plugs and wires, cap and rotor, cts. And the car will not idle right, it wants to die out. It stalls when coming to a stop. And it has zero response when pulling off (you can go full throttle and it will not pass 1500 rpms for at least 5 seconds.
Have you checked your fuel pressure at the rail and verified it's operating correctly?
Have you checked your intank fuel filter?
Have you verified the lift pump is working in tank?
Have you done a smoke test on the car like other suggested above?
Have you pulled your valve cover off an inspected the cam lobes?
Have you done a compression test/leak down test?'
Have you tried a good used/new DME?
When you installed the new sparkplugs did you verify the correct spark plug gap?
When you installed your AFM did you make sure it was the exact same part number? as different years and models are COMPLETELY differently tuned AFMS and will not play nicely with the DME
The m30 has nothing special to it. She's a good simple engine you can figure this one out yourself. But i think you should ask yourself if you've really put your efforts where they are needed to figure out whats really going on with this car.
Every post you've sent us has been about some item that you've replaced and nothing about actual diagnostic information that would allow any one to provide proper input for you back.
Last edited by Kinetik; 03-31-2019 at 02:23 PM.
I have actually done a lot of diagnosing, and everything that I've replaced was only due to the fact that they were all out of spec. Every item I've replaced needed to be replaced. I just tackled the fuel tank yesterday and the inside is completely clean and the pump works perfect. The afm I purchased from auto zone is a reman, and it is horrible. I sourced a known working one from my dad's old 535is and it didn't solve much. Icv is also guaranteed to work. I checked all vacuum lines yesterday and they all seemed perfect and I put my finger to the fpr vacuum line and it was very strong.
I also haven't done a compression test because it is more of an intermittent issue. So it leads me to believe it's electrical. I have yet to source a good ecu. I don't want to purchase a $70 one off ebay that doesn't work. Does anyone have a 179 ECU ?
was the 535is a 88/89 because the AFM will only work on a 88/89 car sinceyours is a 179 ecu
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Is your car a stick or an auto i have 2 179 ecus.
I stand corrected. It is an 87. That would explain why it didn't do much.
Differences between motronic 1.1 and 1.3 your car is a 1.3
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1430281-Bosch-Motronic-1-1-1-3-BMW
ECU compatibility list
http://www.bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=646
179 ECU Supports stomp test codes.
https://www.sssquid.com/v3/bmw-stomp-test/
update: I drove the car around for a little bit (if you would even consider stalling about 5 times driving) and redid the stomp test. I got 1222 l, being the lamda 1 code. Is that the o2 sensor?
1222 - Lambda control fault code is produced when Motronic system in Bosch control unit receives signal indicating that air/fuel mixture is either excessively rich or excessively lean for period of time longer then 10 seconds. Majority of the causes that affect drivability of the car can be responsible for DME flashing this error:
•air leak
•defective Air Flow Meter ( AFM)
•bad engine temperature sensor
•incorrect fuel pressure
•problem with injector(s)
•defective evaporation system
•empty gas tank
•issue with spark plugs
•problem with valves
•etc.
https://web.archive.org/web/20080203...ic-fault-codes
1211 - DME, Motronic computer, related fault - which may indicate problem with car computer itself. Delete any stored codes and perform following test: Start the car and let it run for 30 seconds; Turn off car and let it sit for another 30 seconds; Perform diagnostic test again; If the same flash code re-appears DME should be replaced
1215 - Indicates problem relating to Air / Mass Flow Meter - AFM or MAF depending on your e30 model. Causes could be cable wire damage, short circuit in the unit, or air / vacuum leak (check air intake hose - big L-shaped one)
1216 - Designates error with potentiometer in Throttle Position sensor. Some later model cars have potentiometer, as opposed to switch (TPS) found on majority of e30 s. This code will be active if inappropriate sensor values are read by control unit, and although presence of this fault code may indicate bad potentiometer, wire harness connection at the sensor is common issue (corroded, loose connection, or broken).
1221 - Fault related to Oxygen ( O2 ) sensor is present if the sensor is unplugged, bad / not-operational, or sensor values are out of range. Test the O2 sensor for proper operation, as well as check harness connections by the sensor and by the battery tray in the engine compartment.
1222 - Lambda control fault code is produced when Motronic system in Bosch control unit receives signal indicating that air/fuel mixture is either excessively rich or excessively lean for period of time loner then 10 seconds. Majority of the causes that affect drivability of the car can be responsible for DME flashing this error: •air leak
•defective Air Flow Meter ( AFM)
•bad engine temperature sensor
•incorrect fuel pressure
•problem with injector(s)
•defective evaporation system
•empty gas tank
•issue with spark plugs
•problem with valves
•etc.
1223 - This fault code indicates problem relating to Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS). Test the CTS sensor for proper functionality and check sensor wiring and connections.
1224 - Fault with Air Temperature Sensor , which can indicate bad sensor, break or short in wires
1231 - Battery Voltage / DME Main Relay error code can mean that battery voltage is out of range (either too high or too low), or that battery was disconnected. Test charging system and /or battery to find problem cause.
1232 - Error associated with "idle" portion of Throttle Position Switch. Test TPS for proper operation
1233 - Error associated with "WOT" (Wide Open Throttle) portion of Throttle Position Switch. Test TPS for proper operation
1251 - Fuel Injectors (group #1) fault can indicate problem with either individual injector or first group of injectors. Solution is to check fuel injector connectors, wiring from DME to injectors, and to test injector(s) for proper spray pattern. Additionally, fault code 1283 could be set in conjunction with this one.
1252 - Same as 1251
1261 - Fuel Pump Relay Control code indicates break or short circuit associated with fuel pump relay. Test for proper signal on number 3 pin on DME. It can also mean that output stage of DME is faulty (Motronic version 1.3 only)
1262 - Possible causes for Idle Speed Control fault are:•damaged wiring to the idle speed actuator
•wire from DME is defective
•output stage of DME is damaged
Also if engine stalls while it is above 600 RPM, code 1262 will be set
1263 - Purge Valve fault can indicate that Evaporative Control Valve is faulty, that wire from DME to the valve is damaged, or problem with output stage of DME (Motronic version 1.3 only)
1264 - EGO Heater error code is stored if there is fault with Oxygen Sensor Heather or it's relay , Air Pump relay, supply wiring, or wire from DME
1444 - No errors
there are vacuum hoses below the intake, at least on the M30 E32, see pic here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ghlight=intake
Last edited by shogun; 04-02-2019 at 06:37 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
1222 is the code from hell on early Motronics. It indicates that the readings from the O2 sensor are out of range, but the number of causes is large. Usually the O2 sensor is working, the problem is somewhere else. Shogun's list is a great place to start, but that's a lot of ground to cover.
I'd be tempted to beg/borrow/steal a wideband O2 sensor with a functional emulated narrowband output. I have an AEM like this one on my E24 to track down a lean running problem. It really helps with diagnosing problems since I get instant feedback from every change I make. I had a lean idle problem last year I haven't figured out yet.
Save the manuals!
'08 128i 6MT, '86 635CSi 5MT (B32, Motronic 1.3, WBO2, G265, 18# FW, 3.46 torsen)
Past projects:
'96 318iS, sold 4/23 '90 535iM, RIP 1/23 '90 535iA RIP 6/22 '91 318i, sold 7/19 '97 M3 sedan, sold 11/18 '85 735i, RIP 2/18 '92 325iC, sold 7/16 '91 318iS, sold 6/16 '84 745i, sold 10/14 '82 633CSi, traded 9/12 '90 325i, RIP '87 325 sold '89 525i, traded '87 325iS, RIP
Make a smoke test like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I just sent you a PM
Rob E3
I just unpugged the o2 sensor and the idle smoothed out a bit but it's still jumpy and it stalls.
Is there a way to do a continuity test on every pin on the ecu? Any links?
I did a test at the ecu plug. All grounds checked in good. Main power to the ecu was good at 12v relay powe was good for main and fuel. The only thing that stuck out to me was the reading for open throttle and closed throttle; the voltage never changes??? I also have a question about the kick down. Does the kick down send voltage when it is pressed or does it cut off voltage when it is pressed. Because at idle throttle position, there is a constant 12v from the kick down switch output?
You have the electrical troubleshooting manual, right? If not, here's the link for the '89 635CSi. Every time I get another project car, I download the appropriate ETM and leave a printed copy with the car. That ETM is worth its weight in Danegeld!
Section 2460-2 has a diagram of the kick-down switch. Should have a single gray/yellow wire, grounds pin 2 of the Motronic. There's a whole section in 2640 with testing, troubleshooting & description info.
Save the manuals!
'08 128i 6MT, '86 635CSi 5MT (B32, Motronic 1.3, WBO2, G265, 18# FW, 3.46 torsen)
Past projects:
'96 318iS, sold 4/23 '90 535iM, RIP 1/23 '90 535iA RIP 6/22 '91 318i, sold 7/19 '97 M3 sedan, sold 11/18 '85 735i, RIP 2/18 '92 325iC, sold 7/16 '91 318iS, sold 6/16 '84 745i, sold 10/14 '82 633CSi, traded 9/12 '90 325i, RIP '87 325 sold '89 525i, traded '87 325iS, RIP
I'm starting to realize simple questions I should've asked way earlier. Does the 89 635csi have one fuel pump or 2 fuel pumps. Because I'm not exactly sure if the intank one actually works.
Update if anyone cares: replaced ecu with one off ebay and smacked the cat a thousand times with a hammer and the car seems fine now. Still not perfect at cold start but once running it's good.
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