Hello all, I did my first head gasket repair a the night before last and it went fairly well considering it was my first time and I was doing it solo (13 hrs straight).
I did however break what seems like an important electrical connecter that goes from the spark plug wires to a plug right next to the crank position sensor plug.
I was able to get the car started and running but not without a few issues (trans program, dim lights etc.) After shutting the vehicle off it will not restart. I can hear a solenoid click on my starter but not the loud repeated click that normally comes from a dead battery. Attempts to jump start the car were unsuccessful.
Considering that the wire I broke off is the only way the ignition system communicates with the vehicle it would be safe to say that this is causing my no start.
But I'm still very curious if that is true.
Much thanks!
If the crank position sensor is disconnected, the car will not start. But if you are talking about the sensor that runs off no.6 ignition wire then the engine will run happily without it.
TBH, it sounds like you just have a flat battery. Unless you have a good set of booster cables, jump starting may not work either. Charge the battery overnight, let it stand for an hour or two and then read the voltage. If you can get at the battery cells, use a hydrometer to test the SG. That should be 1.26. If not, check the voltage across the terminals. That should be 12.6v
To me it almost sounds like there's a grounding issue between the block and the frame not allowing enough amperage through due to like corrosion, disconnection, loose connection etc. The clicking is the contacts inside the starter relay closing to allow the high current into the starter.
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Thanks for the assistance!
Yes, the plug coming off wire 6 is missing. Good to know that it is not related to the issue. As for the CPS, it was replaced about one year ago but it has seen plenty of abuse since then. Between the excessive heat and coolant soaking it I wouldn't be surprised if it was toasted. I'll bust out the multimeter in the morning to test the battery and maybe swap CPS with an extra I have.
As far as bad grounding I only know of the main ground that you mentioned and I will also check it out tomorrow. Are there any other ground wires that I should also be checking?
I really appreciate the advice! I was pretty upset after going through the time and effort to replace the HG only to have this non starting issue. I really do appreciate the help.
You must repair the part broken.
Also, check if you have spark and if your injectors have pulse (using a light).
Also, check your fusible links
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ble-links-pics
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Also, you can check your CPS resistance using a multimeter.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...osition-sensor
Checking for spark/injector pulse is a good start to try to understand where the problem comes.
Try the stomp test if you car have check engine light:
http://www.e38.org/e32/bmw%20code%20defaut.pdf
Solved.
I was in a sleep deprived rush when I hooked up the starter incorrectly and fried it.
Luckily my AutoZone starter has a lifetime warranty. New starter and the problem is solved.
Unfortunately I no longer have power windows, radio or OBC. Fuses are good, so I will most likely be learning how to read a wiring diagram soon.
I appreciate all the assistance! The suggestions definitely helped me pinpoint my error.
did you check ALL fuses? Engine bay, under rear seat driver side, and for the OBC there is a hidden fuse in the base support for the rear seat driver side, pics here http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/236235/
for the windows: that is controlled by the GM = ZKE = central body electronics under rear seat, also for that there are fuses under rear seat http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/elec.../rearseat.html
Fuses are all listed here, fuse number, A, and for what they are/which circuit, from page 0661-00 http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/e32_90.pdf
probably the fuses under rear seat
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