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Thread: No Start, but why?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    232
    My Cars
    90' 735iL, 90' 535i, 93'

    No Start, but why?

    Hello all, I did my first head gasket repair a the night before last and it went fairly well considering it was my first time and I was doing it solo (13 hrs straight).

    I did however break what seems like an important electrical connecter that goes from the spark plug wires to a plug right next to the crank position sensor plug.

    I was able to get the car started and running but not without a few issues (trans program, dim lights etc.) After shutting the vehicle off it will not restart. I can hear a solenoid click on my starter but not the loud repeated click that normally comes from a dead battery. Attempts to jump start the car were unsuccessful.

    Considering that the wire I broke off is the only way the ignition system communicates with the vehicle it would be safe to say that this is causing my no start.

    But I'm still very curious if that is true.

    Much thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Oldham UK
    Posts
    3,190
    My Cars
    '00 330i Sprt '92 525i
    If the crank position sensor is disconnected, the car will not start. But if you are talking about the sensor that runs off no.6 ignition wire then the engine will run happily without it.

    TBH, it sounds like you just have a flat battery. Unless you have a good set of booster cables, jump starting may not work either. Charge the battery overnight, let it stand for an hour or two and then read the voltage. If you can get at the battery cells, use a hydrometer to test the SG. That should be 1.26. If not, check the voltage across the terminals. That should be 12.6v

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Denver, CO
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    264
    My Cars
    325xi; 740i
    To me it almost sounds like there's a grounding issue between the block and the frame not allowing enough amperage through due to like corrosion, disconnection, loose connection etc. The clicking is the contacts inside the starter relay closing to allow the high current into the starter.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    232
    My Cars
    90' 735iL, 90' 535i, 93'
    Thanks for the assistance!

    Yes, the plug coming off wire 6 is missing. Good to know that it is not related to the issue. As for the CPS, it was replaced about one year ago but it has seen plenty of abuse since then. Between the excessive heat and coolant soaking it I wouldn't be surprised if it was toasted. I'll bust out the multimeter in the morning to test the battery and maybe swap CPS with an extra I have.

    As far as bad grounding I only know of the main ground that you mentioned and I will also check it out tomorrow. Are there any other ground wires that I should also be checking?

    I really appreciate the advice! I was pretty upset after going through the time and effort to replace the HG only to have this non starting issue. I really do appreciate the help.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    37
    My Cars
    740d
    You must repair the part broken.

    Also, check if you have spark and if your injectors have pulse (using a light).

    Also, check your fusible links

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ble-links-pics

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also, you can check your CPS resistance using a multimeter.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...osition-sensor

    Checking for spark/injector pulse is a good start to try to understand where the problem comes.

    Try the stomp test if you car have check engine light:

    http://www.e38.org/e32/bmw%20code%20defaut.pdf

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    232
    My Cars
    90' 735iL, 90' 535i, 93'
    Solved.

    I was in a sleep deprived rush when I hooked up the starter incorrectly and fried it.

    Luckily my AutoZone starter has a lifetime warranty. New starter and the problem is solved.

    Unfortunately I no longer have power windows, radio or OBC. Fuses are good, so I will most likely be learning how to read a wiring diagram soon.

    I appreciate all the assistance! The suggestions definitely helped me pinpoint my error.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,736
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    did you check ALL fuses? Engine bay, under rear seat driver side, and for the OBC there is a hidden fuse in the base support for the rear seat driver side, pics here http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/236235/
    for the windows: that is controlled by the GM = ZKE = central body electronics under rear seat, also for that there are fuses under rear seat http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/elec.../rearseat.html
    Fuses are all listed here, fuse number, A, and for what they are/which circuit, from page 0661-00 http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/e32_90.pdf
    probably the fuses under rear seat
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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