well, another build on an s52

[peapodf50]

Hello all,
Well I haven't not posted here in a long time, still looking at the latest and greatest, but just no posts from me. Anyway, I was on track at the beginning of January and blew the engine. Drove the car for to long and lost most of the engine. The only thing that was salvageable was the the rods, crank, cams, and exhaust manifold. The engine was a fully built engine, supertech springs, ARP head studs, o-ring block, wisco pistons and molnar rods.
That was the horrible part. Now for the hopeful rebuild and next step for the car. I found a donor car from a local shop that was just going to crush a convertible M3. I took it off of there hands for 800 and am going to use the block and cylinder head for the build. Now I just need to get more parts and figure out how to build the bottom end.
As of now, the cylinder head is disassemble and the machine shop checked it out. They found that the supertech valve springs had to big of a spread to reuse. they were between 60-80 lbs. Most were at 70lbs and they are supposed to be at 80lbs. Anyway, I am going to try out the VAC springs. That is currently at the machine shop getting checked and built.
Now onto the block. I have never built a bottom end before, but it seems like as long as you take steps and not be in a hurry it is not crazy hard to do. I have new wisco pistons on order and until they come in I'm not sure of what I can do to prepare for the next step on the bottom end. The new block will be bored to accept the new pistons. I need to know what the top and bottom ring gaps should be. I have heard that turbo engines should be at.0018-.0024 for the top ring and .0002 more for the bottom ring. Any help in this area is appreciated.
Now on to the heart of the system. I had a Garrett GT35R on the car. I destroyed the exhaust wheel by running the engine with the exhaust valves being ping pong balls in #4 cylinder. ( my fault). My question on this is, do I put the same turbo on again(925), or do I upgrade the compressor wheel (1400).
my goal with the car is not crazy power, but throttle response. I was running about 8 psi on track and would like the same out of the new engine. When I would get below 4K the car would be like a Prius. I would like to change that to a more linear torque curve with the same turbo. (I still like 500 torque on the street). I am changing the pistons from 8.5:1 to 9.0:1. So the main question is do I get the same turbo or do I upgrade the compressor wheel to help with the torque curve, or does the compressor wheel not matter for my particular goals?
I think that is most of the questions that I have at this time. I'm sure I will have more as I get the engine back together.

Thanks for reading this far

MichaelDSC_0323.jpgDSC_0322.jpgDSC_0321.jpgDSC_0320.jpgDSC_0319.jpg

[SGT StudMuffiin]

What caused your engine to blow exactly? Also, you should try a GTX30 for throttle response.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[peapodf50]

Not sure what caused the engine to blow. I am having the injectors checked to see if that might have been the problem. Would a GTX be able to put out 400whp?

[Mklock]

Go with an EFR turbo if you're doing anything track level and being competitive. Instant response, and they can make any power you'll need. Sucks that she blew, hopefully you can figure out what happend so it does not repeat.

[SGT StudMuffiin]

GTX should do 400whp fairly easily, but on second thought I agree with Mklock to go with an EFR, they are pretty much king for response


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk