OEM+
Apologies for the lack of activity the last year or so, I was using the BF app from my phone and it was relegated useless a couple updates ago.
Last night I went to start me car and it would not turn on. By on I mean, no power was getting to anything. No red blinking light on the radio, no interior lights, windows didn't move down when I opened the door, power locks weren't working (including the trunk), no power is getting to any of the car. I initially thought it was a dead battery from leaving an interior light on all night or something similar. I hooked up a NoCo boost to jump start the car and no luck; still nothing was turning on with the jumper turning on and connected. I then checked to make sure my battery terminals were connected and not loose, everything seemed fine; the negative terminal was a little tough to get off, I looks like the battery post might have expanded a fraction of a centimeter or I clamped it too tight the last time. Usually when I'm reconnecting the battery terminals they spark a little, this time around that didn't happen.
I am currently waiting for a ride to go get my battery tested, but the battery is fairly new, within the last 2-3 years it was replaced. The battery also looks to be in good shape, not swollen or anything like that. I've had batteries die on me in the past, but they usually have some juice left and show some signs of life. The battery is an interstate batterythat I got new. Battery previous owner had in the car died within the first year of my ownership and it was prorated by interstate; I've had the car 3 1/2 years iirc.
I've search and don't come up with anything that is similar to what I'm experiencing. Mainly EWS stuff but nothing in my car is getting power and all the fuses are intact/not burnt. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
db
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
(<oo\(||][||)/oo>)
'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
Member
Time to get out the volt meter and start probing. It sounds like you’ve lost a major ground. Meter from batt + to chassis ground point and see what you have. Then meter the reverse batt - to positive jump post under the hood.
Last edited by z3forlife; 02-05-2019 at 02:47 PM.
Is Enabled
BMW Tech Expert
Don't go too crazy with searches for ews, etc. Battery is likely dead.
z3forlife is right. Multimeter first.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
OEM+
That is on its way with my ride to the auto parts store. Unfortunately I haven't moved my tools to my apartment from my parents, my garage is part storage I'm sharing with a roommate and my parking spot.Originally Posted by z3forlife
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
(<oo\(||][||)/oo>)
'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
Member
Agree! Battery dies when it gets too cold or hot. Similar to a human being having a heart attack it will come anytime.
OEM+
Well I guess I WebMD'd my car into cancer when it turned out to be a dead battery.
So these Interstate batteries aren't the greatest; this is my second dead battery in 3 1/2 years of ownership. They keep sucking you in with their warranty. My alternator was also very recently replaced, so an interstate battery only last about 2 1/2 - 3 years on a basically new electrical system.
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
(<oo\(||][||)/oo>)
'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
Member
Hilarious!
Tony
"You can't sign away negligence."
Member
Don’t forget to give Interstate a bad review where they’re sold. Spread the word.
Member
My car was completely dead too but it had been sitting for 2+ months. Was expecting a weak battery but not completely gone. Have it on a charger now. Don't think our cold temps helped when even the temp in the garage was 32 and outside was single digits.
4 yr old batter I think.
Member BMW CCA, PCA
Cold weather slows down the storage discharge rate of a battery. Cold does reduce the cranking amps but it will return to normal when the battery gets warmer. If you get 4-5 years out of a battery, you are doing good. Should always keep a battery charged if you want them to last.
Member
Autozone's Duralast batteries 10 years ago were the better ones now I switched to NAPA's Legend batteries. I still have Bosch's in my 540 and 528 simply because they are still under warranty (replaced them 2X) but they're not that great IMHO.
Member
I don't believe in trickle charging batteries. Call me crazy but I just can't get my ahead around keeping a battery plugged in. If it dies. It dies. If it stops holding a change so be it. If it gets me 4 years instead of 6 then I can live with that. I know it's paranoia but I don't trust trickle chargers.
Member
I always trickle charge if a car isn't going to be used for a period of time. I can't see any reason not to - it's not as though it's artificially keeping the battery alive, it's just really compensating for the drain that all cars place on a battery.
Member
Hmm, odd belief. They work.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
OEM+
Battery went from 12 volts to 6.52 volts in less than 24 hours. I live in south Florida so the temp has been changing but nothing like the rest of the US.
I had an Optima Red top in my M3 that lasted 8 years of daily driving. That battery was awesome. Shame they don't make any batteries that properly fit the Z3.
What trickle chargers are you guys using? I was looking at the NoCo solar powered unit for the M3, as it's currently parked outside.
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'95 M3 Cosmos Schwarz Metallic on Dove Grey: AA CAI, AA bump up kit, Euro HFM, JC chip, AA track pipe, AA Gen III exhaust, AA ltw flywheel and clutch package, X brace, front strut brace, Koni SA shocks, H&R sport springs, GC RSMs, 71 deg T-stat, aluminium housing, JT-D underpanel, Hamann black out grill kit, oem euro lights all around, 18" BBS RC 10s, UUC motorwerks pulley kit, 3 spoke steering wheel, silverstar H1s fog light bulbs, ZKWs w/CCFL, Prolumen 4300k HIDs, Powerflex RTAB and LCAB
(<oo\(||][||)/oo>)
'00 M Coupe Oxford Green II Metallic Sunroof Delete on Oregon Beige: (under construction)
Member
I think all the systems are pretty intelligent these days. I like any that can quickly disconnect should you forget it's there. I reverse into my garage, and have almost driven away a couple times without unplugging.
My plan this spring was to run the leads out the bottom of the battery box and have a hookup under the rear bumper, so if I do drive away it'll simply disengage.
My dad's MB has a pretty sweet system built into the rear bumper. I'm becoming as forgetful as he is.
20181021_102645.jpg
Last edited by s8ilver; 02-06-2019 at 01:19 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Member BMW CCA, PCA
I switched to solar chargers. Been using them for years with no failure. Be careful to get one that is weather proof and has the protection diode inline, lots of cheap panels out there. I also like the ones that flash a LED when they are in the sun to show they are working. Not keeping a lead acid battery fully charged will limit it life, lots of articles out there to read on the subject.
Last edited by Adker; 02-07-2019 at 11:51 AM.
Member
Solar isn't going to help inside my garage
I've been reading up a bit more about float charger / newer trickle chargers. Feel a bit better about using them I dunno ...
Member BMW CCA, PCA
I place the panel outside the garage where it will get sun sometime during the day and run the wires to the car. Very little current so long leads are fine and the charging time doesn't need to be long, just topping off a charge.
Last edited by Adker; 02-08-2019 at 12:42 AM.
Member
I'm in the energy/mining industry so I plug everything in. Just doing my part to increase demand.
Wish gas was $4.50/gallon again.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
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