Member
Having some major issues with my car it's completely undrivable.
Codes are:
29cd
29d2
29d0
29cc
29cf
29ce
(All misfire codes)
Here's a list of what has been changed and or tested.
Both vanos (new)
All coil packs (new) and spark tested
New spark plugs
New essentric shaft sensor
New map sensor
Brand new battery
The maf sensor has been tested and is in working condition.
Both exhaust and intake cam shaft sensors are tested and working.
I have smoke tested the intake and there are no leaks.
Compression test was perfect 150 across the board.
Fuel pump is working and the rail has 70 psi.
At this point I have checked every fuse and every relay in Hope that one would do it no luck.
At this point I'm at a loss and really hoping someone can point me in so direction.
Last edited by BmwGAF; 01-31-2019 at 08:52 PM.
Murphy was an optimist.
Just guessing here:
1- Unplug the MAF clear codes restart
2- Old "FI trick"- unplug O2 sensors clear codes restart
3 - Make sure the engine grounds are good and clean
Free try out one at the time.
Member
The maf trick I tried. Motor ran even worse and then stalled out. I have cleaned all the grounds I have found, I sanded and re attached. I have never tried unplugging the o2 sensors. I will give it a try now.Originally Posted by gusm325
Edit: tried the o2 sensor trick no luck. Runs much worse and I get 2 o2 sensor codes nothing else.
Last edited by BmwGAF; 01-31-2019 at 10:00 PM.
Member
you have misfire on virtually all cylinders, well on at least 5 of them(1,2,3,4,6), and one code, the cc is for multiple misfires. I would double check those coils again, spark plugs and the 5 injectors. Swap the 5 and 6 coils spark plugs and injector one at a time and see if you get a code for 5 instead of 6. Make sure your exhaust is original and has no leaks. That's about all she wrote. The fuel pump should not cause these codes on only 5 cyls.
29cd cyl1 misfire
29d2 cyl6 misfire
29d0 cyl4 misfire
29cf cyl3 misfire
29ce cyl2 misfire
29cc multiple cyl misfire
Last edited by gica; 01-31-2019 at 09:36 PM.
Member
Oh no cylinder 5 misfires too it just so happens that it hasn't done it again since I cleared the codes about 2 hours ago. I have literally checked each coil pack with a spark plug outside of the motor to insure I was getting a good spark. I dont wanna throw more money at this thing. I dont know much about bmws (im a nissan guy) but can timing cause this? Is it a thing for timing chains to slip or something?
- - - Updated - - -
I should also say that the throttle has a very weird response. For example I can push the throttle down and the engine response is delayed, other times its instant.
Member
You are running in 1 cyl so delay is expected. You need a scanner and not just for the OBD2 codes, it's for the detailed scan of that particular car. You will see codes that you don't normally see with just OBD2. And just switch the coils first after you clear codes. If you get the same code switch spark plugs, and then switch injectors. If the code follows any of the components to the new location it will be easy to see. Hope you got it so switch 5-6 since 5 is good and 6 bad. It's a step by step solution. The map sensor if dirty gives you the same symptoms but not same codes. Especially with 5 being unaffected.it usually is the coils that do this. Some say the spark plugs cause some of the issues and finally the injectors.
Member
I'll reiterate. Number 5 has a misfire as well I just didnt have the code active when I wrote the thread. I've swapped coils (have 12 working) I've moved spark plugs around and I still get nothing. And I do have a bmw scanner may not be the most expensive but it pulls bmw codes not just generic codes. At this point I'm willing to buying a new motor from a wrecker and just swap it so I can drive. She's been sitting for 5 months
Member
How many miles?
So you actually have a code for the 5th cyl? 29D1 - Misfire Cylinder 5
Well you did it all don't see the injectors though? Did you check pulse at the injectors? If you took it to the dealer they would do the injectors first. being gas deprived causes this also, you said you tested the fuel pressure and it pumps. If fuel pump is high or low pressure misfire could occur.
So if you start it cold and it misfires right away injectors could be the issue.
The valves could have build up, you could do a leak down test, to check for build up. Again if high miles and wasting lots of fuel.
If your car is a manual tranny there is another cause to them and it relates to the OEM dual mass flywheel which with time can start to vibrate and cause false misfires. The fix there is to swap it either for another OEM dual mass flywheel (if the car is below 500wtq levels) or go with a single mass flywheel. This doesn't apply to automatics obviously.
You might want to have an intake walnut blast done but again depending on the mileage and how dirty your intake is. I mean you are getting all six cyl codes.
Throw a bottle of STP see if it temporarily changes anything.
You can use Seafoam intake cleaner to get some gunk out but the way your car runs it sounds like you have seafoam in there already.
Look at intake manifold runner control valve. Could be broken.
Any really small air leak between MAF and intake can cause all 6 to give codes. You might wanna use carb cleaner(better than brake cleaner) if smoke test did not detect it.
It just occurred to me your cat(s) could be plugged up test for pressure at the o2(removed) sensor hole you should not have high pressure. This can cause the delay in throttle power for sure. But it should not cause the really bad idle. It might be a combination issue, cat first and something causing misfire next. Test it to know for sure.
That is about all you can check and one should prove to be the culprit.
Last edited by gica; 02-01-2019 at 01:03 PM.
Member
200000km on the car.
There is a code for cylinder 5. I scoped at least the intake valves and they didnt look like they had a crazy amount of build up. Plus compression is too consistent across the board to be a carbon build up I would think. As for a plugged cat I would agree with you but wouldn't my manifolds be unbelievably hot even if I ran the car for 5 min? I can basically touch the manifold if I run it and turn it off. I will still pull an o2 sensor because hell I'll try anything. I have soaked the intake side down many times with starter fluid to no avail.
I will check that intake valve!!
The flywheel issue is interesting to me. So that wouldn't throw a crank sensor code or anything like that? Also wouldn't the engine shake a whole lot more since it would be way out of balance? I would guess there's also no way to check that without pulling the trans. I'm just asking questions to help me understand what kind of mess this is.
One last random thing. Any chance the ECU could be pouched or something? Or shorted out or something? Is there any wires I could back probe that should have power while running or even common or known broken wires I should look for?
Member
Where would my intake manifold runner control valve be located? Is it under the manifold? Would that cause crazy misfires?
Murphy was an optimist.
This is really puzzling,
On you first post it states "Changed the vanos new"- you mean replaced the Vanos solenoids or the actual Vanos?
Engine sounds like in the old days when "one would cross" the spark plug wires upon installation from the rotor cap...
Did you change all 6 coils and plugs at once? Did you have all 6 cylinders misfiring errors at the beginning?
There is another member that found out that a bad coil kept fouling the plugs as he moved it around...
I'm not sure of the veracity but what the heck...
Here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...with-SES-light
Member
The vanos solenoids are brand new. And yes coils and plugs were both changed and have been tested and are in working order. Each cylinder is getting spark without a doubt.
I had a friend tell me I should take it to my bmw dealer in town and get them to recode/update the injectors, as he thinks that's what the problem is? Is he crazy or is that actually a common thing for these n52 motors?
Murphy was an optimist.
Sounds good, I cant tell from the video very well with the wiring harness flash by but...
You are absolutely positive (I know it's difficult or nearly impossible) that you have each coil plug in the right spot to the right coil pack, no chance of crossing #5 w 6 or any other right?
Also, you did not cross the connectors of the Vanos solenoids either Intake exhaust...
I could be wrong but that sucker sounds like it's cross-firing (diesel like sound...).
If you give it a little fuel does it pop/backfire and die?
How did you issues start?
Started doing all this mess all at once out of the blue?
May want to re -trace your steps from the beginning or do as your friend says and take it to the stealer or a good indi shop.
(You spent enough dough already).
Truly bizarre.
If you ever find out please come back and let the us know, this one is for "the record".
Last edited by gusm325; 02-03-2019 at 07:25 PM.
Member
No chance anything is switched around. Double checked and triple checked. It does not back fire or have a smell of rich fuel mixture when you give it gas.
I bought this car for super cheap and it was so cheap because of the problems you hear now. All I got from previous owner is it would stall out on him occasionally while sitting at a light, it got progressively worse until the misfire was so bad he couldn't drive the car.
So yeah the only thing I haven't done is injectors but really doubt all of the injectors going pretty much at the same time seems wild to me.
Murphy was an optimist.
Today I saw this video, at about minute 10, this gentleman refers to misfires caused by the "disa" flap in the intake.
He does not elaborate, I don't even know it's possible, but what the heck, maybe this can help...
Youtube.
BMW 6 Cylinder Engine Oil Leaks, Oil Filter Housing, Eccentric Shaft Sensor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiGTMKJ7T-M
Member
Did you manage to get this issue fixed. I have exactly the same problem. The only code I have is for a vanos intake
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks