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Thread: M5/540i MSport front bumper cover replacement.

  1. #51
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    Our painter used the exact headlight washers from another person's car to cut the holes out. They are clearly marked on the underside.
    Judging by your photos, I must agree, poorly done. I suspect he may have accidentally swapped the nozzles (left to the right side and vice versa, that's what it looks like on your photos)
    If you want to take the bumper and package, we'll have it shipped back to us and refinish it for you. We'll pay for the return, fix, and reshipment to you.

    As far as fender gaps and finish, that's based on install in 90% of cases.
    The ABS bumpers are in fact a better fit and should not have gaps at the edges. So if you would contact us in private so we can see exactly how you installed, we can make suggestions and then you can post the results after the suggestions.

    PS: our claims are not based on what our customers, or their body shops have claimed. our claims are based entirely on our installs.
    We've installed probably over 200 of these (PP, OEM, ABS) so we judge it based on OUR installs.
    Last edited by umnitza; 03-18-2019 at 04:25 PM.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by robrods View Post
    SantaClaus4: Thank you for the post and followup. I am sorry I am learning through your wallet, but I am in the same position. I have a REAL '03 M-Sport and want to keep it looking great... a stupid high curb decided otherwise. Your post made up my mind to go OEM and if going that route, I might as well have the paint shop fix the rock chips in the hood at the same time. Yes, it will be $$$, but it only has 120K miles and other than that, doesn't have a door ding on it. Worth it to me and as someone said, cheaper than a car payment (ok, a couple in my case). Thanks for sharing, wish the story had a happier ending.
    Might as well go all in, once you get the hood fixed up and the bumper nice new and painted, throw down the extra few hundred to wrap it all in Expel clear film. I had to replace my hood (and windshield) after a tree branch fell on the car during a storm, I had an expel clear bra applied to keep it nice and new looking. Also applied expel clear film to my headlights after I restored them, and they still look like nice and clear two years later.

  3. #53
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    “Template.” Lol.


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  4. #54
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    just ordered OEM (51-11-2-498-507) M5 bumper through dealership, cost me $1,017.76 will be picking up at dealership by Wednesday afternoon. OEM for the win!

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  5. #55
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    Wow. $627 right here.

    https://www.bmwdirectparts.com/oem-p...er-51112498507

    Pretty sure you’d still come out several hundred dollars ahead even with shipping. You could use the difference to get it painted.

  6. #56
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    Umnitza not only posted here but also PM'd me so it's clear they want to make things right. Looks like I need to give them a little more information about my install. I'm assuming they want to keep the back-and-forth private so as not to clog up the forum and I think that's reasonable.
    I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch

    The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.

    If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by sienayr View Post
    Wow. $627 right here.

    https://www.bmwdirectparts.com/oem-p...er-51112498507

    Pretty sure you’d still come out several hundred dollars ahead even with shipping. You could use the difference to get it painted.
    I tried that first and it came up over $100 from what I just paid at my local dealership. Best part about the purchase that not only its OEM the shipping is 2 days! its not my first purchase from this dealership.

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  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    It's kind of a bold claim to say that a replica M5 bumper fits 100%, because I've never seen one fit perfectly, ever. They should just remove that claim from their site and just say the fit is "good enough."
    Well, how many times have they backed that claim out on a few other threads, I actually asked them to put their money where their mouths were, they said they would, then nothing but silence on that subject. And that’s why I just ordered from a different supplier and got the usual aftermarket figment for half the price.
    I then drilled out the shocks and let the magic white foam looking crystals out, with the headlights out of the way, set the bumper to the right locations so that the corners all lined up, drilled locating holes on each strut, right before the mounting triangles where you bolt them into the frame rails, screwed in two screws to lock the struts from sliding out, or twisting out of position. Unbolt them from the rails, I then drilled three holes thru both tubes, and used three big daddy stainless rivets to lock them in. The tubes are so thin, if I ever have a fender bender, the struts will still telescope in if they have to by shearing either the tube housing or the rivets. In hindsight, I think it would be better to also drill a hole in the rear, squirt expanding foam into the rear section of the tube to give it some spring action in case I’m dumb enough to forget to stop. Some would think I was nuts, some don’t, I’ve done it for a couple of people, have one more to do for another.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    Well, how many times have they backed that claim out on a few other threads, I actually asked them to put their money where their mouths were, they said they would, then nothing but silence on that subject. And that’s why I just ordered from a different supplier and got the usual aftermarket figment for half the price.
    I then drilled out the shocks and let the magic white foam looking crystals out, with the headlights out of the way, set the bumper to the right locations so that the corners all lined up, drilled locating holes on each strut, right before the mounting triangles where you bolt them into the frame rails, screwed in two screws to lock the struts from sliding out, or twisting out of position. Unbolt them from the rails, I then drilled three holes thru both tubes, and used three big daddy stainless rivets to lock them in. The tubes are so thin, if I ever have a fender bender, the struts will still telescope in if they have to by shearing either the tube housing or the rivets. In hindsight, I think it would be better to also drill a hole in the rear, squirt expanding foam into the rear section of the tube to give it some spring action in case I’m dumb enough to forget to stop. Some would think I was nuts, some don’t, I’ve done it for a couple of people, have one more to do for another.
    oh how I wish you live here in my area, Id gladly pay you for the work. By the way do you have any pictures on how you did this? This is awesome!

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  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowthirtynine View Post
    oh how I wish you live here in my area, Id gladly pay you for the work. By the way do you have any pictures on how you did this? This is awesome!

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    Well, I did it for one of my cars, it looks like a factory bumper, and I did it for a couple friends. I have one that I really need to do and had been putting it off because I’ve been stupid busy, by the time I have some time, I am just burnt out of energy. Thank God, the guy that has been waiting is in no rush, But I do have to do it soon.
    When I do it, I can do a good write up on it with pictures and everything, just have to make the time. For the guys that I did it for, and one more to go, here is where it gets tricky, if you’ve got none of McGuyvers skills, then you will just have to live with the crap fitting on the aftermarket bumpers. I couldn’t set the locations for their struts since I’m sure the locations for my car would not be identical for theirs, you dig? So, all I did was the scary stuff, drilling into the strut to let the weird gas/white crystal looking foam out, the pressure in some struts were stronger than others, it pooped the stuff out, as I drilled, so wear safety glasses. Some struts that were pressurized stronger, the stuff shot out for a split second. It’s not rocket science, just gotta have the balls to drill into a pressurized strut is all.... lol.

    I drilled the hole in front of the triangle mount, there is a leading edge protruding from the outer tube, covered with welding from when they welded the mounting triangle to the outer tube. I had to be careful to not drill through. I then hit three sections of the outer tube with a punch to help them locate where to drill for the rivet holes, these were to be drilled all the way through both tubes, this way, the struts were custom fitted to their cars.
    So, they then mount the struts to their bumper reinforcement bar, this located the proper tubes rotation location to the mounting triangles holes, once they fastened the mounts to the car. With the headlights out of the way, you can drill straight down through the holes that I drilled, run some screws in there to lock them in position, once you have slid the bumper in or out to locate the proper setting. Then you pull it all of in one assembly as you normally would, only now, everything is in place. You can then drill through the tubes where I left the center punch marks, it’s all locked down with the front screw, it’s not gonna move. Then rivet it in with the big stainless rivets. You will need to get a heavy duty rivet gun, I use a pneumatic gun from Matco tools, I think Harbor Freight has one too if you have a compressor at home. If not, I don’t know, drill a couple extra holes and use smaller stainless rivets I guess. That’s it. Do not use aluminum rivets, if you do, withing a few months, galvanic corrosion will already be in full swing, galvanic corrosion will begin as soon as you have two dissimilar metals together. So use stainless steel.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by umnitza View Post

    As far as fender gaps and finish, that's based on install in 90% of cases.
    The ABS bumpers are in fact a better fit and should not have gaps at the edges. So if you would contact us in private so we can see exactly how you installed, we can make suggestions and then you can post the results after the suggestions.
    Why not share the tips here? I too have the same bumper to fender gap. I have trimmed and wrestled my front bumper in an attempt to align it perfectly to no avail.
    1987 Buick Grand National
    2001 BMW 540i

  12. #62
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    The only way to get it aligned 100% with the wheel arch is to do what Snotty suggested, that the only way.
    The bumper is directly attached to the aluminum bumper frame, the frame is mounted to the T mounts. It can't be moved any further back unless some metal is cut.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    The only way to get it aligned 100% with the wheel arch is to do what Snotty suggested, that the only way.
    The bumper is directly attached to the aluminum bumper frame, the frame is mounted to the T mounts. It can't be moved any further back unless some metal is cut.
    I noticed that myself. The aluminum support is a pretty hard fixed mounting point. The new cover didn't even want to follow the gentle curve of the aluminum support. I had to have a helper hold the cover firmly to the support while I installed the plastic rivets or else there would be a gap. I wished I'd taken pictures of that part of the assembly procedure. It would make more sense. The next time (and there WILL be a next time) I remove the bumper cover, I'll try to take more pictures of the procedure. It'll help the next person down the line if nothing else.
    I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch

    The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.

    If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    The only way to get it aligned 100% with the wheel arch is to do what Snotty suggested, that the only way.
    The bumper is directly attached to the aluminum bumper frame, the frame is mounted to the T mounts. It can't be moved any further back unless some metal is cut.
    Does this apply to OEM bumper? Or only the aftermarket ones

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  15. #65
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    One must be careful when letting the magic foam out of the bumper shocks.
    The slight bit of cushion from the shock is the difference between air bag deployment and not in low speed bumps.
    With no cushion, the jarred bump is enough to pop the bag sensor.
    Come on scotty, you work in a shop and know how sensitive the BMW air bag sensors are.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowthirtynine View Post
    Does this apply to OEM bumper? Or only the aftermarket ones
    Only the aftermarket ones. The OE bumpers fit perfectly with no modifications at all.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    Only the aftermarket ones. The OE bumpers fit perfectly with no modifications at all.
    And the OE BMW bumper ships in a nice big box big enough to put 2 bodies in!

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    And the OE BMW bumper ships in a nice big box big enough to put 2 bodies in!
    hey dual purpose

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  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    And the OE BMW bumper ships in a nice big box big enough to put 2 bodies in!
    Don’t mention that to the South American BMW dealerships!
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagons ho View Post
    One must be careful when letting the magic foam out of the bumper shocks.
    The slight bit of cushion from the shock is the difference between air bag deployment and not in low speed bumps.
    With no cushion, the jarred bump is enough to pop the bag sensor.
    Come on scotty, you work in a shop and know how sensitive the BMW air bag sensors are.
    I explained all this to the guys I did it for. Not to mention, the three rivets locking it down? They will easily shear off, or the tubes themselves will shear open and give. The metal is very thin. In the next version, I will shoot expanding foam in through the rear tube too. It’s not as bad as you are thinking.
    Another thing, if you look at all the new BMWs reinforcement bars, they have no struts, solid mounts straight to the rails. They do have foam, but Jeezuz, have you seen the foam reinforcement? You can knock a person out if you whack them on the head with them.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  21. #71
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    Just got tracking update from USPS to say my Latvian-sourced bumper has cleared customs and is currently in NYC. I'm hoping it will be delivered to me in DC by the end of the week so I can install it on the weekend.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    And the OE BMW bumper ships in a nice big box big enough to put 2 bodies in!
    You weren't kidding about that box lol. I told the guys at service/parts desk about what you said here in the forum and everyone was laughing!!! Anyway heres the OEM bumper, ordered on 2 days ago(Monday) picked up today Wednesday. I just dropped it off to my local preferred body shop to be painted and will be ready for pick up tommorow.

    Things I notice about the OEM is the rigidity and flexibility is stronger. the weight is also heavier than my replicas aaaaannnddd length is a bit much longer than the replicas. I barely fit the bumper inside my camry. Had to put one side on the back passenger side and the other side thru the front passenger side.

    I also did fitment test before dropping it off and unfortunately didnt take any photos because I so happy how it turned out with wheel arch on the side. I do however have to play with brackets attached to my car because I did mess with it while wrestling the replica in its best position. I will update tomorrow with photos after install.

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  23. #73
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    I told ya it was a big box.
    With the headlights out it will be easier to get at the brackets, you probably already knew that.

    M5FB_1..JPG

  24. #74
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    I was able to get at the adjustment for the corners from underneath the car.
    I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch

    The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.

    If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.

  25. #75
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    Im going to probably play with the passenger side only since the driver is perfectly lined up the fender when you are looking down at it from above. Passenger side only needed to be moved outward(away from engine). After all this is done, Ill probably spend on putting 3M clear bra on the bumper. IT IS MUST up here when driving out into the mountains lol

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