Looks Like OEM Part # 61108365530, which looks like the pic below. I am guessing you'll need to clean up and replace connectors on a couple of wires as well. Buy the connectors separately.
Jan 29 post #3, Where's my prize?
Sorry man. Yeah. The number of times we have to argue with people here that just because their carpet is dry doesn’t mean that it’s a mess, is amazing. Sorry you had to find out about it too!
Re the keys, he obviously ordered valet keys to cheap out on the replacements.
That whole mess of harness swapping and bogus keys sounds like a dealer who doesn’t know their A-holes from gopher-hole.
I would agree with the suggestion to get junkyard parts, for a fraction of the price you can probably get a ton of good stuff under there instead of just one part from the dealer.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I have strongly considered junkyard cars, however, expect to find a rusty wading pool in most of them. How common IS this "vapor barrier electrical self destruct" problem with the e39?
The connectors I am worried about finding from BMW. I also have to inspect the wires more and really give it a thorough look.
Finding a junked e39 without vapor barrier BS = GOLD right now
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IMG_2352.jpg The Root Of All? Evil...........
thats in pretty bad shape. if you cant get a decently priced one from BMW, a visual inspection of the junkyard terminal/fuse block will tell you what shape its in. the crimp on wiring terminals are readily available, in either the insulated or non insulated (the ones you have) type. at FCP euro, a new part is $159.72, image not available on their site, bare plastic housing, youll need to get all the fuses and other stuff. other sites list similar price for new. its not a common problem except on cars allowed to leak, its an easy issue to detect and repair before the electrical problems arise.
Last edited by mattmar1; 03-06-2019 at 03:21 PM.
Yeah I think junkyard skepticisms are well founded - even if they arrive fine, at least at my JY’s, the doors get left open and sometimes windows smashed - however I’d still give i a try. It’s “somewhat common but not universal” problem.... so you still might find a good one.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Pulled the car out of the garage today, did the vapor barriers with silicone. Noticed the drivers side puddle light had caught fire at some point. Lower part of panel was all burnt out inside. The vapor barrier does not seem to be too promising as an "end all be all" repair. It looks like water can get in all over the place apart from the vapor barrier. Some guys say the mini rear windows are to blame. Anyway here's to vapor barriers.
IMG_2358.jpgIMG_2359.jpg
Last edited by pat528i; 03-07-2019 at 03:40 PM.
That's black mold/dirt/muck on the inside of the door panels. My old ones had that. I left them in the hot summer sun and spray it down with bleach and scrubbed it over the course of a few days. After fixing the vapor barriers it's non existent
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