Capacitor repair for Gen III cluster

[locknload]

I found this thread concerning cluster repair, but most of the links are either dead or don't cover Gen III specifically
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...cluster-repair

So,
Is there a good active link to describe a Gen III cluster capacitor repair?, or

Are the capacitor specs and locations for Gen III the same as those on the Gen II?

[S61Dan]

I believe the caps are the same. My link I have saved is dead

[shogun]

I have been told by the electronic guru of the German 7 forum many years ago: you can replace them with higher voltage such as all with 35 Volt ones or more as long as they fit by size/dimensions.
You just have to pay attention to the diameter, otherwise they do not fit, max. thickness/diameter of 10 mm is possible and NOT higher than 16 mm.
The distance between the "feet/legs" of the capacitor should be 5 mm.
So the dimensions are the most important, the rest does not matter much.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1079784/
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...Capacitors.htm

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dash...dash_caps.html

Edit, Trevor M nicely describes it here:

Four things you need to consider when ordering new caps.
- The value of the cap should match or exceed the original. For example a 220uF cap should be replaced with a 220uF cap or a 470uF would work too if you couldn't find a 220uF. What I'm saying, it's ok to go greater value, not less.
- The voltage rating of the replacement capacitor must be equal to or greater than the original. For automotive use, a 25v or 35v capacitor will be fine.
- Capacitors have a temperture rating of either 85 or 105 degrees C. Obviously, the 105 deg caps are better suited for service where there are high temperatures and will last longer than the 85 deg caps. They cost a bit more.
- The physical size. They must be the same size or smaller to fit the board.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...topped-working!

[locknload]

Don't mean to sound ungrateful, but none of this answers the question. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my request. My cluster is blue and from what I've seen looking at mine and the white and grey versions covered here, the blue clusters are constructed differently (circuit board molded in with components on the back side, not visible when the cluster is opened). I could pull mine and disassemble it to see what the values of the caps are, but I'm wondering, given that the GenII and GenIII clusters are constructed differently, if the architecture of the circuit boards might also be different, thus having different values on the caps and maybe locating them in a different place on the board. I'd like to get the parts I need in advance, to save pulling it all apart and then having to put it back together to go to the store for caps. I've seen the uF values for the Gen II clusters, but don't have any confirmation that they are or are not the same for the blue Gen III clusters. If someone has done this with a blue cluster, a quick tutorial on getting the board out would be helpful, but mostly, I just need to know with some certainty, what size (capacitance) capacitors I need to buy. Many thanks.

[shogun]

It answers basically all your questions:

Four things you need to consider when ordering new caps.
- The value of the cap should match or exceed the original. For example a 220uF cap should be replaced with a 220uF cap or a 470uF would work too if you couldn't find a 220uF. What I'm saying, it's ok to go greater value, not less.
- The voltage rating of the replacement capacitor must be equal to or greater than the original. For automotive use, a 25v or 35v capacitor will be fine.
- Capacitors have a temperture rating of either 85 or 105 degrees C. Obviously, the 105 deg caps are better suited for service where there are high temperatures and will last longer than the 85 deg caps. They cost a bit more.
- The physical size. They must be the same size or smaller to fit the board.
-----------------------
some more Info I can give you:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...Cluster-Repair

in a 02/1992 cluster these were originally found
1x 1000uF/63V
1x 220uF/25V
1x 4,7uF/63V
2x 22uF/63V

I had to carefully break the mushroom top of the blue posts off, to free the circuit board. The plastic is pretty brittle. Putting it back together was sort of trial and err. I ended up trying some small plastic screws from the HW store. Not Ideal, but worked for the most part... and a little e6000 glue.

Opened clusters of all versions E34
http://www.pet-racing.de/E34/UNTERLAGEN/KI/KI_REP.htm
http://www.pet-racing.de/E34

google for: guide-bmw-e34-instrument-cluster-removal-dismantling

[locknload]

Thank you Shogun. Just what I needed.

[robwor]

Just had a question it reads 1000uf 63v capacitors but states 35v is enough so is it ok to just go with the 35v or do I need the 63v

[shogun]

Capacitor Replacement Tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4
voltage shown on the capacitor is the max voltage rating it can handle before the capacitor explodes, as you normally have 13.xxV on a car, 35V should be fine, 63v has a bigger safety margin

[shogun]

good youtube how to disassemble the cluster, which caps are needed, how to remove and solder them in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3MjNCDxD48
E34 Dashboard Fix Dull Display / Gauges not working - Fix your BMW dashboard for €2,50 using 5 new capacitors.
Are your gages not working anymore? Or is your display not showing any numbers? A bad capacitor could be the problem.
0:05 The Problem
1:00 Cluster Disassembly
4:00 Desoldering
4:57 Old Capacitor Locations
4:59 New Capacitor Locations
5:00 Soldering
6:42 Solder Varnish
6:50 Assembly

Parts used:
2 X 22µF 62V
3 X 220µF 25V

This might also work for BMW E30 (3-series), BMW E32 (7-series), BMW E34(5-series)
My car: 1989 BMW E34 525i M20B25